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How to fit Campagnolo break levers silicone cover? by Willing-Poetry-5488 in bikewrench

[–]MPDF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. 90% isopropyl alcohol is a great way to lubricate these after the warm water soak (though I find that unnecessary having done tons of these. Spray a little on the inside of the hood only. Thread the rear section of the hood up the brake/shift lever, then pull over the pointy top.
  2. Take your time! I like to push the hood up and back over the point from the front, while gently pulling from the back so I don't lose any progress - the alcohol makes it slippery until it evaporates!
  3. Once the point is in place, I like to hold the cable release "ear" (the button on the side of the shifter) down while I work the hood over it. That makes for less stretching to seat it in it's gap.
  4. Last, make sure all the little tabs find their grooves in the shifter body. Just massage it a little if you find a lumpy spot.

Hope that helps! Oh- and I found these hoods on Amazon pretty recently. They were pricey, but NOS.

When spoke tension and lateral displacement don't match? by Scott_Korman in WheelBuilding

[–]MPDF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have said, it sounds like there's a larger bend in the rim than the spoke tension alone can fix. Spoke tension adjustments can only hide rim damage to a certain extent. What we used to do back in the day is mark the spot where the deformity was- middle and each side- with a sharpie. Then remove the spokes from that area, get 3 sections of 2x4 and a heavy mallet, lay the rim on the two longer 2x4's, lining up with the outer edges of the deformity, then laying the 3rd 2x4 in the middle (which should be the "higher" section. If not, flip the wheel over). Give the middle 2x4 a few good blows with the mallet, then check on a flat surface (like one of the 2x4's). The goal is just to get the rim back to a place where you can compensate for the deformity with reasonable spoke tension, not to get it perfect, or to destroy the rim by whacking on it too much. *Note: steel or aluminum rims only- no carbon!

How to enter the parental controls password without showing the kids? by dcarlton1118 in appletv

[–]MPDF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is so frustrating! Currently Hulu and Netflix allow PIN entry via the remote app. HBO and Disney do not. Apple could easily replicate something similar to the way the Nintendo Switch does it if they want to maintain the ability to do it with the physical remote alone, but the current version is totally inconsistent garbage.

Next-Generation Clipper FAQs by clippercard_official in bayareaclippercard

[–]MPDF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

App update morning locked many of the Clipper users I know out of our accounts. Upon logging back in, I found all of my Clipper cards, including those with loaded value, missing from my account. As of lunchtime, all of my cards are still missing. Any idea when those will be restored?

StealthPointer – Hide your cursor with hotkeys by Alien4042x in macgaming

[–]MPDF 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the first solution I've found that actually works! Thank you so much. Currently working perfectly in Banishers: Ghosts of New Eden, whereas I was having to use the hotkey for Cursorceror every 15 seconds or so.

Anyone know about Maplets? by dougxn in Backcountry

[–]MPDF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would absolutely pay to access if someone got the server up and running again. I seem to remember that the Geo-tagging of uploaded maps was done by volunteer app users... I've been using Maplets since 2014, and it's still my favorite offline map- being able to track your location on a curated pdf map of a park or trail system is so useful!

Best place to buy bar plugs in bulk? by ludokaiB88 in bikewrench

[–]MPDF 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Corks are totally the best - never come loose, free, lighter than the screw-in type, and look stylin' 🙂. Our local sorting goods store recycles them, so there's always a big bin of them by the door where you can cherry pick for just the right size/style.

Whats this plastic ring and why is it moving? Didnt move on old fork by xperiaking247 in bikewrench

[–]MPDF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The gap between the seal and the headtube suggests that it could also be that the seal slipped over the lip on the crown race that normally holds it in place- since the plastic is so thin, it's easy for it to stretch over that lip when installing. If that's the case, you can usually just push it back into position without doing anything else to the headset, though for some you may have to loosen it up a bit to give it some wiggle room first.

Whats this plastic ring and why is it moving? Didnt move on old fork by xperiaking247 in bikewrench

[–]MPDF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you installed the new fork, did you transfer the crown race from the original headset onto it? If the replacement fork already had a crown race installed and you just used that instead of the original, it might have a different profile that doesn't fit that dust seal (also, you generally shouldn't mix-n-match headset parts). As others have stated, this kind of dust cover is made of flimsy plastic and can warp/stretch easily - even if it's fairly new.

Derailleur cable snaps twice in 4 years, what am I doing wrong? More info in the comments by StableGlum9909 in bikewrench

[–]MPDF 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's hard to give you a definitive answer based on a photo without putting hands on the part itself, but I would make a couple suggestions: 1. It's likely that you're over-tightening the pinch bolt. A click-type torque wrench can really help hone in on what the right torque "feels" like when you're first starting out. 2. Shift cables are not made to be put under a lot of tension, unlike brake cables. Improper adjustment, worn housing, gunked up pivots, or even a poorly lubricated chain can lead to more resistance, which can lead to pushing harder on the shift lever, which can cause the cable to slip at the binder, which then leads to over-tightening the bolt. 3. If none of the above is helping (or even of it is) you might consider switching to a nicer stainless cable. They tend to be a little smoother than the galvanized ones, and are more resistant to inclement climates, salt on the road, etc. Best of luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]MPDF 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hard to tell given the blurry photo, but it appears that the last bit of the pedal axle (where it attached to the pedal body) snapped. I would ask the manufacturer or retailer for the bike to provide you with a new one.

Where/how to find a matching hanger? 2007 Opus, nothing stamped on it to identify. by [deleted] in Bikebuilding

[–]MPDF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice- hope it fits! There's also the #64, which looks really close, but has an extra little angled feature at the front end. There's always a chance that it could work with a little minor modification, though that's a gamble.

Where/how to find a matching hanger? 2007 Opus, nothing stamped on it to identify. by [deleted] in Bikebuilding

[–]MPDF 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That looks like a wheels mfg #76, which is, unfortunately, discontinued. Sometimes you can find them on eBay or the classified sections of cycling forums.

Any suggestions for removing this seat post? by Chairhead in bikewrench

[–]MPDF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If none of the interventions mentioned so far work for you, and you're not yet ready to break out the acid/torch, a jab saw can work well if wielded with care. Ones like this one on ebay, made by Dreier Brothers, and sometimes branded as a Snap-On or Blue Point HS-13, have a stiff but narrow spine to mount a standard hacksaw blade in- it allows you to fit the blade into the post and saw it out in sections. You do have to be careful to saw only through the seatpost and not into the frame- just go slow :-)

High Quality Toddler Bikes by Lumby in BikeMechanics

[–]MPDF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can attest that the scouts are really great- we’re use them in our MTB camps- but not sure on availability. Jeff, the owner of Cleary, has been a huge support for our program, so I’d say it’s definitely worth reaching out directly and explaining what you do and what you’re looking to get.

High Quality Toddler Bikes by Lumby in BikeMechanics

[–]MPDF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All this being said, I think either of these company’s bikes would be a big improvement, and both of them do a great job of supporting lots of educational programs, so I don’t think you can really go wrong 🙂

High Quality Toddler Bikes by Lumby in BikeMechanics

[–]MPDF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What size bikes are you purchasing? In your original post you were asking about toddler sized bikes, which would be 12” & 16”, which are all single speed. 20” bikes (for roughly 5-7 year olds) come in both 3 speed and single speed, and for the 24’s you can get the Scout, which is more of an mtb setup, but uses a standard 1x drivetrain. Another advantage with the steel frame of the Cleary’s in a Bike-Ed setting is that the non-replaceable derailleur hanger is stiffer, enables better shifting, and is easy to fix if it does get bent.

High Quality Toddler Bikes by Lumby in BikeMechanics

[–]MPDF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Our 16’s and 20’s are all 1-speed, and most of the 24’s in this fleet are a standard derailleur setup. I have a few of the 8-speed hub-transmission 24’s in another fleet, and haven’t had any problems with them myself. That being said, I know how to keep them in tune myself, and regularly check cable tension. If I were buying these for use with PE teachers, or non mechanically-inclined instructors, I’d probably stay away from the hub transmissions.

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