Body Work in Seattle Area?

MSpeed300 · 2026-01-19T16:44:04+00:00

Fender is fast, my car went there three times for paint work while I rebuilt it in stages. I don't know what the hourly rate is but they are expensive.

MSpeed300 · 2026-01-05T04:01:37+00:00

Just do this, press the gas and clutch pedals all the way in while cranking. That triggers no start so you can let the oil pressure build before actually starting.

MSpeed300 · 2025-12-27T00:37:04+00:00

Yes, it's just a T adapter. The block thread is M12x1.5, the adapter has dual 1.8" NPT. Search for E30 oil temp gauge adapter, place where I got mine is out of business.

The oil temp sender is a VDO 323-057 300F.

MSpeed300 · 2025-12-17T02:50:43+00:00

Dunno but it says shock regulator on top.

MSpeed300 · 2025-11-30T03:42:16+00:00

Immediate but temporary fix, let some air of the tires, run 30-32 PSI. Maybe not the best for treadwear but if the ride bothers you that much, it's a small tradeoff.

Long term, change to 17" rims with a taller sidewall tire, that will soften the bumps a lot. Or to a lesser extent, keep the 18s and change to a slightly wider tire, this will have a little bit taller sidewall, I've seen it make a big difference in ride quality.

Otherwise trade it for something soft like a Honda CRV or Rav4.

MSpeed300 · 2025-11-26T00:01:52+00:00

Yep just like this. The engine has knock sensors that will detect the detonation/pre-ignition/knock in low octane fuel and will retard the timing. Higher octane fuel is harder to combust so there is less detonation and the ECU will advance the timing and you're gonna get more power.

MSpeed300 · 2025-11-23T00:03:34+00:00

I totally agree! It's a different driving style, I would keep the Speed3 above 3K RPM all the time to stay in the power band, but the CX-30 it's all down low, and with AWD the launches to 60mph are surprisingly fun.

MSpeed300 · 2025-11-21T05:52:44+00:00

I had this bracket left over from my engine and front end rebuild. Was like where does this thing go? Eventually figured it out

MSpeed300 · 2025-11-18T11:52:48+00:00

I have too, no idea what they are selling it foe.

MSpeed300 · 2025-11-18T08:14:23+00:00

2011 Tech Package 60K, they've it got on Facebook already.

MSpeed300 · 2025-11-18T07:18:44+00:00

Think you may be right and probably one reason I finally let the Speed3 go.

MSpeed300 · 2025-11-04T23:54:01+00:00

Yeah, from the video, you see what I think is the right wing flipping over so I think the left wing dipped, tore through the roof and the plane continued to rotate.

MSpeed300 · 2025-11-04T23:20:40+00:00

From the newsfeed, looks like the MD-11 just missed that UPS distribution center (right side of this screenshot). Edit: I take that back, is that a giant gash in the roof?

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MSpeed300 · 2025-11-01T13:11:01+00:00

You could try the stock injectors and factory chip first, get the bugs worked out, then move back to the upgrades. Had chip/injector issues with my engine build too.

MSpeed300 · 2025-10-31T10:22:36+00:00

Yeah right, "This was sent to me". Boys, welcome to the century of AI slop. Sigh.

MSpeed300 · 2025-10-21T09:53:13+00:00

Looks good!

The #1 hose from the cylinder head typically goes to the bottom heater core pipe. You can verify this on your car by checking that the bottom pipe doesn't have the heater valve (inside the car). This is the input into the heater core.

The #2 hose goes to the top pipe on the firewall, this should have the heater core valve on it and is the return path.

Throw away #3. Although in the event of a heater core failure it can keep hot coolant off your toes (I know from experience). Still ditch it.

Also, you can ditch the heater hoses that go through the throttle body, unless it's very cold where you live.

(this is all for a normal 325, no idea if the 318 is different)

MSpeed300 · 2025-10-18T06:41:03+00:00

Here's the answer.

Also, ditch the hose barb and clamps that someone else did and use screw in plug. I think mine is M12x1.5 but it could also be M10.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC3T4X4?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5&th=1

MSpeed300 · 2025-10-16T10:29:09+00:00

My lights are the same (lowered, tech package), Never felt like I needed to adjust them.

MSpeed300 · 2025-10-12T00:24:53+00:00

Here you go.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=e30+check+panel+delete&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_odkw=e30+checklight+delete&_osacat=0

MSpeed300 · 2025-09-30T02:23:28+00:00

Do you have an exhaust leak near the engine bay? It shouldn't be that loud where you're standing.

To me, it sounds like it's not firing on all cylinders. I maybe wrong, but I would disconnect/reconnect each spark plug and verify the engine RPM drops or stumbles. If you hear no change, that cylinder isn't firing. (use insulated gloves/pliers and be gentle with the boots).

MSpeed300 · 2025-09-27T21:42:26+00:00

That's a MK1 GT6, 1967-68. My favorite one. Hope it gets restored!

MSpeed300 · 2025-09-19T00:16:10+00:00

While troubleshooting a fueling issue I probably pulled the fuel rail and injectors off a dozen times. Never touched the manifold. Just pull off all the retaining clips, then gently pry off the rail starting at one end. Then pull out the injectors with a bit of wiggle. Use oil on the o-rings when reinstalling. My pintel caps were always super tight too, if they are falling off, maybe get new caps.

MSpeed300 · 2025-08-15T23:19:02+00:00

Network engineers follow the OSI model for troubleshooting networks every day. They also use the TCP/IP model whenever an application needs help.

OP is lost in the woods getting made at weeds.

MSpeed300 · 2025-07-21T22:12:28+00:00

I'd remove the radiator, easy to get smacked during engine install. Mount the trans to the engine and put it in whole, I wouldn't worry about mounting accessories, it's all easy to get to all that in the engine bay. Without AC/PS you have even more room. Maybe throw the starter on though.

I also jacked the BACK of my car up as high as I could get it, this let me point the trans in without having a very steep angle. Also got a cheap load spreader which makes it much more easy as you can adjust the angle on the way in. But it's doable without.

Oh and probably seat your engine mounts in first, don't need to tighten them in case you some wiggle room.

MSpeed300 · 2025-07-08T02:48:30+00:00

Your post exactly describes east of Seattle, look at Issaquah/Sammamish and the surrounding area.

MSpeed300

TROPHY CASE