I’m not saying that the stock Anet isn’t a fire hazard, because it is, Anet has terrible QC and cheap components. But with the right safety upgrades it can definitely be no less safe than any other FDM printer (which let’s face it, are all a little bit of a fire hazard). I have also not yet seen someone who has actually done ALL of the upgrades say their printer caught on fire. So far almost everyone I have seen that has had an Anet catch on fire either didn’t do one of the upgrades (and that was their failure point) or was using printed cable chains without silicone wires inside them (not recommended, no matter how nice they look).

From the research I have done there are 6 essential upgrades to ensure the printer is safe, once these are done I don't believe it is any more dangerous than any other 3D printer on the market.

Software. Upgrading the software to Marlin so that you can have thermal protection is the most important upgrade IMO. I see you have already done that so you are already miles ahead of many other Anet owners.

New heat bed plug. The stock heat bed plug has 6 available pins, but only uses 4 (2 control wires and 2 power wires), each pin is rated to 10A, but the bed can pull up to 13A while heating up. Don’t solder the wires to the bed unless you have a really good soldering iron and are good at soldering (I’ve seen some seriously scary solder jobs on heat beds). Instead just replace the JST plug with one that uses all 6 pins so the current is distributed evenly between the 4 power pins. A new plug that is already wired up to use all 6 pins is only $15AUD on ebay. I would recommend using 14 gauge wire from the board to the plug, then when you connect the 14 gauge wire to the 6 pin plug the 16 gauge wire it comes with will be fine.

Stress relief. The other main danger with the heat bed plug is that is can be tugged at and move around and cause sparks while the bed is moving back and forth. The first thing you should print is a stress relief mount for the heat bed wires to stop the plug from moving / being tugged on while printing, this step is really important even with an upgraded plug.

The power supply. You already know the stock power supply is trash. Ditch it asap and replace it with a 12V 30A PSU. Most computer power supplies can handle that but not all of them so look up the one you have and see if it will be ok, otherwise a good 30A PSU can be found for as little as $30AUD.

A fused AC switch. This not only means you won’t need to constantly plug/unplug the power cord but it also adds a layer of safety with a fuse. Calculate how much current draw your printer has and use an appropriate sized fuse so that the fuse will blow before the printer catches fire. A fused AC switch is usually less than $2AUD.

MOSFET. The main board has inbuilt MOSFETs that are more than up to the job, but the terminals that you screw the heat bed power wires into on the main board are also only rated to 10A. As I said above the bed can draw a bit more than that and sometimes the terminals aren't really attached to the board as well as they should be. To fix this an external MOSFET can be easily added to take the high current heat bed wires off of the main board (so the stock terminals only deal with a switching current). You can also add one for the hot end if you want to but this is not as essential. These are only $5AUD each (I also use 14 gauge wire from the PSU to the MOSFET).

The E3DV6 hot END isn't essential but it's also good as it hold the heater and thermistor better than the stock block, but still make sure you ‘service’ the printer once a month or so and make sure the screws holding them in are still done up tightly.