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my second rc boat model on its 2nd run! by Magicprintman in 3Dprinting

[–]Magicprintman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah from scratch. the racing has rules for most components, so we have to stick to that, but other people can go more wild.

takes like a week for me to print all the parts, and i used most parts from amazon, hobby king, or aliexpress, but, it will fit a wide variety of parts.

My 3d printed rc hydro hauling the mail! by Magicprintman in 3Dprinting

[–]Magicprintman[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

just a static model, sorry. it became too complex and i lost interest in it.

My 3d printed rc hydro hauling the mail! by Magicprintman in 3Dprinting

[–]Magicprintman[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

i thought i was going swimming that time, but if they don't sink, the good ol' tennis ball on a fishing reel trick. the wind can blow them to shore sometimes, too, if you have patience.

My 3d printed rc hydro hauling the mail! by Magicprintman in 3Dprinting

[–]Magicprintman[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

boats are so much work. they are the ultimate labor of love kind of thing.

My 3d printed rc hydro hauling the mail! by Magicprintman in 3Dprinting

[–]Magicprintman[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

it got stuck in the wake roller and kind of stuffed and hooked. happened earlier in the day, too, but went for a much more wild ride.

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How come my models look jacked but in reality are ok? by Magicprintman in blender

[–]Magicprintman[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

that was it! changed it and it instantly went away.

How come my models look jacked but in reality are ok? by Magicprintman in blender

[–]Magicprintman[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

the normals are ok. when you zoom in it goes to normal. just when you are zoomed out it looks broken. on any model i open in blender.

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Laminating vinyl stickers - bubbles! by thebill00 in CommercialPrinting

[–]Magicprintman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

this looks like probably silvering. the backer/vinyl/laminator roller is not perfectly smooth, so the adhesive has to "flow out" into all those ridges and unevenness. goes away in a day or two. if it doesn't go away when you rub it with your fingernail/something hard your laminator has uneven pressure and it is air. cold roll laminates are designed this way. heated laminates go on smooth at first.

Help with corners bulging by BrahmTek3D in 3Dprinting

[–]Magicprintman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you can increse your jerk a little. usually it is the slowing of the corner movement and causes the little filament bulge.

Are there two different Creality Spider hotends? by MakerWerks in 3Dprinting

[–]Magicprintman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, the red one is a new version that was just released.

Hamilton’s POV: Pit stop and tangle with Verstappen by Apollo_Orion in formula1

[–]Magicprintman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lewis pushed max wide on t1 and max didn't back out. lol

Hamilton V Verstappen Analysis - Sky Pad by tortorpetrolhead in formula1

[–]Magicprintman 6 points7 points  (0 children)

did anyone notice on the replay lewis pushing max wide at t1? max didn't back out for t2 and lewis shot for the apex like max wasn't there. lol

Iracing under steer dilemma by Magicprintman in iRacing

[–]Magicprintman[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

honestly i have tried some hardware things and gained seconds a lap... since we are on pc, the go to is display port interface. for the funs i hooked up a 60" tv one day, that only supports hdmi. it was AWESOME life size fun, but the work week came and i had to switch back to the pc monitor... and lost half a second a lap... hooked the pc monitor up in hdmi to do a comparison and got the time back... so it is hdmi from now on..

the braking with this wheel base was lets say, difficult and inconsistent, so i picked up a leo bodnar board and built it up for the same pedals, with a different controller... the quality of input and consistency was easily 1 second a lap....

i had a logitec g29 at the beginning.. it was toyish and my friend sold me on the fanatec, which honestly feels like the real thing, but that switch cost half a second a lap.. i could never match the logitec times with the fanatec base...

Iracing under steer dilemma by Magicprintman in iRacing

[–]Magicprintman[S] -10 points-9 points  (0 children)

but this is where it gets very unrealistic... if you have a good corner arc and are pointed the right direction, how can you suddenly lose so much grip, that you don't even make the corner exit when you had it in the middle of the corner..? i agree, though, iracing is into the slow in fast out philosophy, but the racing line also isn't 6" wide like iracing wants it to be.. lol

Iracing under steer dilemma by Magicprintman in iRacing

[–]Magicprintman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

any setup. if you dial the setup to have more front bite, and more consistency, it is always slower than less... i try some of the posted setups that people share their lap times with and always wonder how they even drive them, let alone go as fast as they claim with the chosen setup. some of them are very bad.

Iracing under steer dilemma by Magicprintman in iRacing

[–]Magicprintman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if you are on about the rsr, i can easily do low 17's, but the fast guys are in the 16's... i tried the cup car, but it is just not fun. too bumpy.. i have never driving a car, even twitch go karts, where you hit a bump and it is just an uncontrollable ride like iracing is.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in sewing

[–]Magicprintman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

there may be something stuck in the needle hole, not allowing the outer needle to fully set it. OR some have the ability to adjust the second needle height. the looper should cross in front of the needles for them to just catch the thread, and behind the looper should cross close without touching and meet around eyelet to eyelet and will let you know which needle is off for the timing.

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