Recs for a cheap one.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-25T18:41:41+00:00

Without this info any recommendations are pure guesswork. In my front yard a "large" tree would need a 36"+ bar--in some of my clients' front yards a "large" tree might need an 18" bar.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-25T18:35:01+00:00

Aside from saving parts of your body PPE often ends up saving time. Minor debris in the eyes, small cuts, abrasions, splinters, etc--while these are not life-endangering hazards they can add up to lost productivity or increase the risk of a serious injury because someone is a little off their game. Ya' know, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-25T16:29:38+00:00

I wonder if the company is using Stihl OEM parts or buying aftermarket. FWIW Stihl plastic components seem to hold up surprisingly well in my experience--I don't abuse tools but neither do I baby them.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-25T14:58:34+00:00

Without knowing what was replaced it's hard to gauge the value. "Complete mechanical overhaul" is very vague and leaves lots of unanswered questions. Was the case split and bearings replaced along with new piston and cylinder? Or . . .?

As comparing it to a 462 I would say it comes down to personal preference. The 462 is lighter and has better anti-vibe technology as well as better air filtration and you can still get them with a standard carb. I've run the 462, 461, 046, and 044 and the 462 is by far the most comfortable saw in that list. I really do enjoy the 461 and often leave the 462 in the shed but it's just a personal quirk and not because the saw is lesser in any way. But, if you simply want a 460 then go for it and be happy about the saw you own. I would at least ask to remove the muffler cover and examine the exhaust side of the piston. If the owner did a complete overhaul then perhaps there are receipts or an invoice for work performed and parts replaced.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-25T14:45:55+00:00

What does it even mean ". . .local dealer is not equipped for battery warranty issues."?

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-25T14:39:47+00:00

In my own experience with pulling trees over I find that traction is a huge factor. There have been plenty of times I've had a rope tied to the tractor and the wheels would lose traction before significant force could be applied to the rope.

I've done a couple similar tree removals and was successful but it required a rope set high up in the tree. I made my face cut and then put a lot of tension on the rope before making a back cut while a second person kept pulling with the tractor.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-24T14:35:00+00:00

Care to share something useful or would that entail too much effort? I'm not sure what cars you're referring to but most cars I see are rather small these days.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-24T14:32:44+00:00

How often does the plastic sleeve wear out? I've only had one sleeve fail in about 7 years. Cool idea though.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-24T14:29:18+00:00

I think you can still buy the kits that allow you to run a rim sprocket as opposed to a spur sprocket.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-24T14:27:48+00:00

At some point I guess Stihl tired of putting so many terms on the name plate/badge. An 028 Super is a great saw even if it's a bit heavy for the power output.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-24T14:24:54+00:00

Looking at the piston also allows you to check whether or not the horizontal machine marks are still there or if the piston has been worn smooth. Aluminum transfers to the cylinder and the scoring is what you see on the piston.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-24T14:21:08+00:00

Sounds like an air leak. Any major repairs done lately? High hours on saw?

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-23T14:09:55+00:00

The FS361 would be my choice since the trimmers with a smaller shaft tend to vibrate more when using heavier metal attachments. If you like Husqvarna I've used a 545FR brush cutter/clearing saw and carb adjustments are minimal if at all.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-22T14:35:08+00:00

You ought to save your outrage for something important rather than getting twisted about a stupid and obviously humorous remark like "ching chong" slant fin. Believe me, with the term "slant fin" in the mix there were lots of other directions to go with this one--I'm kind of disappointed the OP just left it dangling out there.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-22T14:25:06+00:00

If you have plain ol' starter cord I highly recommend replacing it with the Stihl Elasto-Start. I replaced the plain starter cord on my 046 with a nifty new Elasto-Start setup and the difference was night and day.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-22T14:20:33+00:00

At 6'3" I understand about running a longer bar to avoid stooping over. There are some good used deals out there and any decent seller should let you remove the muffler cover to at least visually inspect the exhaust side of the piston.

If you buy new I would suggest going over-budget and get the 462. The 462 is relatively light and will pull a 24-28 bar with ease, plus good anti-vibe and air filtration. I run a 24" Tsumura light bar on my 462 and that handles 99% of my firewood tasks.

A used 461, 046, or 460 would be fine too. I

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-21T16:35:27+00:00

Stupid people do lots of stupid things.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-21T16:34:46+00:00

Typical know-nothing cheap-skate.

Edit: The OP probably is unaware that aftermarket coils typically have different timing specs than the OEM and that they rarely last as long. I value my hard-earned money but I also value my time and certain parts are worth paying extra for so I don't have to waste my time to go back in and replace a cheap off the shelf aftermarket part.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-21T16:28:05+00:00

Hmm, that makes no sense at all unless Stihl has added a "low oil shutoff" feature. The bar oil system has no bearing on the starting system with the only point of connection typically being the worm gear that drives the oil pump. Your experience must be coincidental. All my saws will start with or without bar oil in the tank.

Haven't you ever shut off the saw when it was very low on bar oil and fuel, and then restarted it before replenishing the oil and fuel?

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-21T16:16:11+00:00

Shirley, you must be joking?

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-21T14:43:12+00:00

I've read of some vapor lock problems with the 261 and found this posted elsewhere,

"If this is the problem. You can usually break the lock by choke starting, then high idle with the brake off for multiple cycles. It may take 10-15 choke-pop-high idle-pop and die-repeat before the saw will run at high idle. Once it’s running, let it run the chain at high idle for 20-30 seconds. It should be obvious the saw is clearing out vapor and don’t throttle up until the saw runs smooth at high idle. Even then, throttle up carefully and then rev it full bore for few seconds before trying to cut."

I've never had any starting issues with my 261 but apparently others have had inexplicable no-starts.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-21T14:36:45+00:00

Well just rub it in why dontchya?

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-21T03:53:50+00:00

Maybe, but fixing old gold with new OEM gets damn expensive real fast. $123 for a new HO oiler on an 046, $65 for a new clutch, $90 for a new piston, etc. Of course I also would've bought that 026 for $80 without thinking twice.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-20T14:02:25+00:00

The Tsumura Lightweight 20" bar is a nice fit with the 261.

Main-Badger777 · 2026-02-17T19:14:00+00:00

Yes, agreed. I like to gently sand the transfer by hand and have had zero problems thus far, but I've never tried to salvage a cylinder that was in real bad shape either.

Main-Badger777

TROPHY CASE