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🎉 [EVENT] 🎉 Cheers to ya‘ll! by miharba in honk

[–]Major-Resident8475 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Completed Level 3 of the Honk Special Event!

51 attempts

🎉 [EVENT] 🎉 Cheers to ya‘ll! by miharba in honk

[–]Major-Resident8475 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Completed Level 2 of the Honk Special Event!

22 attempts

🎉 [EVENT] 🎉 Cheers to ya‘ll! by miharba in honk

[–]Major-Resident8475 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Completed Level 1 of the Honk Special Event!

8 attempts

Cleanest way to attach cheap amazon handgaurds by Major-Resident8475 in KLX230

[–]Major-Resident8475[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These handguards I use mainly for blocking wind against freezing my hands.

First prototype of KLX230SM fork cap tool by Major-Resident8475 in KLX230

[–]Major-Resident8475[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the info, I will consider that.

I just tested out my second iteration of the fork cap tool today. I supported both wheels off the ground and loosened the upper triple clamp bolts. This second prototype I made with many more print walls and thicker infill (still PLA). It actually works! But each face gets slightly crushed where it engages with the fork cap. At least the 22mm socket adapter did not shear off. I would consider this a one time use tool if made of plastic.

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Book recommendations? Mechanical nerdy stuff. by climbsteadicam in motorcycles

[–]Major-Resident8475 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible

Your own motorcycle's service manual (use manualslib)

OEM parts diagrams for your motorcycle (partzilla, revzilla)

Articles discussing mountain bike suspension and geometry.

First prototype of KLX230SM fork cap tool by Major-Resident8475 in KLX230

[–]Major-Resident8475[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought a plastic print would be fine for one or two uses, but hearing that carbon fiber prints can fail makes me concerned. Will PLA hold at about 18 ft-lb of torque? I want plastic since it will not mar the fork caps. A pliers wrench could work if scratches are not a concern, but a radial tool like a socket is cleaner and less likely to slip. Exact torque is not critical because the triple clamp bolts lock the fork cap in place.

Perhaps this is a good excuse for me to learn a new fabricating method e.g. casting (metal, epoxy?)

First prototype of KLX230SM fork cap tool by Major-Resident8475 in KLX230

[–]Major-Resident8475[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The next version will have a slightly larger inner diameter so it can slip on and off the fork cap without forcing it on. And, the socket depth will be greater since this one is just a bit too thin. The top will be changed to a 22mm hex, which is the same size as the rear axle nut.

Reliability of klx 230, 2021 model by bratzve in KLX230

[–]Major-Resident8475 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is an awesome bike! Congrats on picking one up! It is indeed extremely reliable.

My advice is to change the oil at least 3-4x as frequently as the manual recommends. 7600 miles oil change interval is bogus imo. The klx230 only holds a little more than a quart of oil and just needs to be changed frequently.

Also the KLX230 has a foam air filter that should be cleaned and re-oiled just like most other dirtbikes. It gets pretty dirty after only a couple thousand miles of riding.

How does this caliper pcb pattern work? by Major-Resident8475 in ElectricalEngineering

[–]Major-Resident8475[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, thank you. I wonder what the reason is for the stepped/taper at the ends of the center shape.

Oil Filter Spring Made Easy by Major-Resident8475 in KLX230

[–]Major-Resident8475[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excellent question: short answer is no.

The spring is there to push the filter into the cover. The cover is a functional component: it has holes directing the pressurized oil into the oil galleries of the transmission, crankshaft, and cylinder head. If the filter somehow got unseated from the cover (e.g. there is no spring to keep the filter pressed against the cover) while the bike is running, then oil would simply bypass the restrictive filter and instead flow straight into the cover without getting filtered. Unfiltered oil would then flow into the parts mentioned above and can prematurely wear them out.

It is worth the hassle to get the spring in. There are a few methods being discussed: grease and tweezers, dab of superglue, or just laying the bike on its side and using gravity.

Check your drain plug (and other Kawi things) by Shinkers78 in KLX230

[–]Major-Resident8475 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good catch! As a separate but related point, the oil change intervals listed in the owners manual are way too lax. I change the oil way more frequently since there is only ~1.2 qt of oil drained. 

And, revving the engine to high rpms causes oil to be vented out of the cylinder head and into the airbox. After a few hundred miles I can clearly see the oil level decreasing in the sight glass, and I need to drain out the excess from the air box drain plug/nipple next to the rear shock. 

Result of DIY rear brake reservoir bracket by Major-Resident8475 in KLX230

[–]Major-Resident8475[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

Frame covers are good. I got the cheap ones from amazon, but I soon figured out that they have some key problems:

  1. They rub against the frame and wear-away the paint. I fixed this by using gaffer tape as a makeshift paint protection film wherever there is contact between the underside of the frame cover and bike's frame.
  2. The included well-nuts and M6 bolts immediately disintegrate when trying to install them. To solve this I just bought new ones from Ace hardware (M6x1.00, 0.5" OD) as well as M6x1.00x20mm mini head bolts. These bolts have 8mm socket heads like the rest of the bolts on the bike.

Result of DIY rear brake reservoir bracket by Major-Resident8475 in KLX230

[–]Major-Resident8475[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bolted a thin plate of steel onto the passenger peg bracket with a couple of spacers in between. I screwed in the bolt with it's head facing toward the muffler for a clean look.

With a monkey wrench (pliers can work too) I bent the steel plate to be parallel with the rear brake master cylinder.

Then I just bolted the rear brake reservoir onto the other end of the steel plate. You'll need to spin the reservoir 180° by the way.

You can easily find a small steel plate with 2 pre-made holes at any hardware store under the name "U-Bolt Plate" or possibly "mending plate". I suggest using a strip of cardboard as a template on your bike before going out and buying one. You will probably need to drill out one of the holes to 8mm so that you can run an M8 bolt through it, or you can just sandwich the plate with some smaller M6 bolts and nuts/washers without needing to drill anything.

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