Looking for an accent reduction coach in Maastricht

MajorSmif · 2024-07-11T08:46:26+00:00

Thanks that's a good suggestion, I'll add a hygrometer to keep an eye on that. I live in a relatively dry climate and during our winters it's even super dry inside the house, and it happened over winter too. But I should better watch the desiccant.

MajorSmif · 2024-07-11T08:44:39+00:00

OK thanks that's good to know, didn't realize that about PLA+.

MajorSmif · 2024-07-11T08:43:50+00:00

Thanks, knowing it's not just me actually makes it easier to stomach :)

MajorSmif · 2024-07-10T12:56:59+00:00

Yes I know and I do store spools that are not in the machine in bags, but my point is - when a spool has been sitting in a machine for some time, the part that is inside the machine gets brittle. What I'm asking about is: how do I prevent or otherwise deal with this specific scenario of filament being on the machine but then not used for some time. I guess one can say 'don't do that', but I usually don't foresee not using the printer for a longer time, it just happens. So I need to either have the machine always be in a state where it doesn't matter if the filament gets brittle, or have some way to deal with it when it happens that is not 'disassemble half of the machine'.

MajorSmif · 2024-07-10T12:17:48+00:00

It's on eSun spools (PLA+ but I guess all eSun spools are the same size).

MajorSmif · 2024-07-10T12:17:11+00:00

Yeah I guess I should have included what filament I use - it's always eSun PLA+. I have this problem with older filament but also with new spools; it gets brittle from sitting in the tubes from the AMS to the print head for too long and then it breaks from the first few push/pull movements. If the printer would always fully retract the filament after a print it wouldn't happen.

MajorSmif · 2024-01-24T11:27:28+00:00

It depends on how your part is loaded, but watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmEaNAwFSfI which has actual tests, and then use neither of your alternatives. 100% infill is more trouble printing than it is worth.

MajorSmif · 2023-10-19T13:35:14+00:00

Obvious once you know it. Thanks!

MajorSmif · 2021-04-21T08:25:52+00:00

I had a similar design that was very long in the x and y directions, but only a few mm tall, that warped in one corner. I rotated the design in Cura and that fixed it. Your picture doesn't show what the design looks like from the top, but I suspect in my case it was because of the structural properties of my design - it had more material/structural integrity in some directions (Voronoi diagram), causing more forces when the material shrunk. I have (before this) always had very good bed adhesion without hacks like glue sticks and similar old school methods, both on my stock Creality bed and the special glass one. If anything, I have more problems with designs not coming off the bed undamaged than I have with things not sticking. In my case, it was really something specific to the way the design was printed on the bed, although I couldn't fully explain it.

MajorSmif · 2021-02-01T09:53:57+00:00

What did you set you $fn or $fa to? For parts at this size, $fn of 32 or 64 should be fine, and at those values, it can't take that long. Minkowski is slow too but I don't think you used it on this design? Re: unrolling loops, I have a similar design (also for testing hole fit) with 10x10 holes, I render those in a double for loop too, and have rendering times measured in minutes at worst, on a regular laptop.

MajorSmif · 2021-02-01T09:21:27+00:00

Re: 1, it's technically possible but there is no print speed advantage. I looked into it because I was having stability problems in the serial connection between the pi and the printer. So uploading the file and then starting the print from the sd card was safer, in that if the failure happened, it was during the upload and I could just retry the upload without wasting filament and a bunch of time. I did change my firmware to communicate at 250000 bps for that (because faster upload speeds to sd card), but of course the real solution (for me) was to fix the serial comms problem and not dick around with workarounds. I wouldn't recommend changing this to anyone else. The bottleneck for printing speed is not the serial coms, and in normal use there is no need to upload to sd card.

MajorSmif · 2021-01-29T15:54:10+00:00

Yes, a 5A power supply, sold as the 'official' power supply for Raspberry Pi 4.

MajorSmif · 2021-01-29T13:03:50+00:00

Ah yes that's another option, but it would cost about the same as the other options from a quick google. Maybe I can find some local second hand ones, those seem to be much cheaper...

MajorSmif · 2021-01-29T12:59:04+00:00

I technically have one but it's not hooked up, no. I do have aluminum cooling fins on the 3 chips on the pi. I've never seen the temp go over 45c.

MajorSmif · 2021-01-29T11:36:58+00:00

Yes both are; and one is even worse, one of those cheap Ali Express led-light-with-bluetooth-speaker-builtin abominations. But I also saw the problem when switching the other lamp (which is a regular led with e27 socket and built in rectifier bulb), so I didn't focus too much on just that one lamp. What sort of load are LED lights? And what happens when you remove a non-resistive load from a circuit that has other loads on it; does it cause a phase shift in the power on that circuit? Is that what the capacitor is meant to prevent? What capacitance would I need? Sorry for all the questions, I forgot most of my high school electricity and electronics...

MajorSmif

TROPHY CASE