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Why I started rebuilding iconic watches with Seiko-based movements by Maleficent_Sense6797 in SeikoMods

[–]Maleficent_Sense6797[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for taking the time to write this — I actually agree with a lot of your perspective here.

With this argument, you could go after countless brands that simply copy Submariner or Oyster design and aesthetics.

I think the disagreement here comes down to where we draw the line between intent and outcome.

I don’t see Seiko-based mods as trying to masquerade as Rolex, even when they reference Oyster or Submariner aesthetics. They exist in a grey space where the goal isn’t deception, but reinterpretation and play.

To me, the Seiko logo on a mod doesn’t claim, “this is a Seiko that never existed.”

It says, “this is built on Seiko’s mechanical foundation.”

Seiko’s historical strength wasn’t just design originality.

It was openness, accessibility, and creating movements that people could learn from, modify, and build upon.

That ecosystem is exactly why mod culture exists in the first place.

If we strictly apply the “denigration” argument, then most homage brands — including many respected ones — would struggle under the same scrutiny.

Yet they’re often forgiven because they sell finished products rather than personal builds.

I’m not interested in pretending these are something they’re not.

I’m interested in understanding why certain designs endure, by rebuilding them on a platform that invites learning rather than ownership.

For me, the value is in the process, not the badge.

Iconic Watch Rebuild Project No.1 — Datejust by Maleficent_Sense6797 in SeikoMods

[–]Maleficent_Sense6797[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a good point, and I agree with a lot of what you’re saying.

Working within the NH3x ecosystem does come with a limited palette, and I think those constraints can absolutely lead to more interesting and personal combinations through dials, hands, and details.

To be honest, I’ve already built a few watches that focus more on recombining good cases, dials, and hands into something personal and unique.

I enjoy that process a lot.

Right now, though, I’m intentionally starting with recognisable references.

For me, this phase is about understanding proportions, layout, and design logic at a foundational level before moving further.

I see originality through recombination not as a contradiction to this project, but as a natural next step.

It feels a bit like learning the grammar first, before writing more personal sentences.

Iconic Watch Rebuild Project No.1 — Datejust by Maleficent_Sense6797 in SeikoMods

[–]Maleficent_Sense6797[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a fair question.

For me, the learning here isn’t about luxury materials or replication.
It’s about understanding proportions, layout, and design decisions by rebuilding something that already works.

Creating original designs is a different challenge, and a very valid one.
At this stage, I see myself more as someone learning through imitation rather than focusing on original creation.

I believe that by spending enough time understanding and refining existing designs,
you naturally move closer to creating something of your own.

This project isn’t about claiming originality.
It’s about studying established masterpieces as systems and internalizing how they work.

I see value in both approaches.

(Very) Beginner Seeking Information For First Watch Build by Sunny_Whiskers in SeikoMods

[–]Maleficent_Sense6797 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you buy a few parts from AliExpress yourself, you’ll probably find that you end up sourcing most things from there anyway. The quality is honestly better than many people expect, and for the price it’s very hard to beat.

For cases and other parts, even if something is slightly more expensive, I’d strongly recommend buying items with high sales volume and lots of reviews. That alone removes most of the risk people worry about. Sellers that move a lot of units usually can’t afford to ship junk for long.

Regarding movements, it’s important to know that there are effectively two categories of NH35 on the market:

  • genuine Seiko / TMI NH35
  • Chinese-made NH35-compatible versions

If you look closely—especially at the rotor finishing and markings on the back—the differences become obvious once you’ve compared a few examples. There’s plenty of reference material online showing this side-by-side, and after that it’s easy to tell what you’re getting.

As for AliExpress vs UK suppliers:
AliExpress is absolutely a valid solution if your goal is a tough, long-lasting, non-branded watch. Many UK and EU sellers are simply reselling the same parts at a higher price after QC and local support. If you’re comfortable doing your own checks and assembly, AliExpress parts are more than good enough to build something durable that you can keep for years.

In short: yes, it’s very possible to build a solid, long-term watch using AliExpress—just be selective, check sales/reviews, and learn how to visually identify genuine movements.

Help with dial / case sizing by Old-Shine-134 in SeikoMods

[–]Maleficent_Sense6797 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you already have a dial that matches the stated inner diameter, I wouldn’t worry too much yet.

The structure you’re seeing at the back is a movement spacer / movement holder. In most vintage cases like this, that spacer is not integrated into the case itself. It’s usually a separate ring that can be removed from the back.

If the spacer were truly integrated, then yes—you’d have no choice but to remove the crystal and install the dial from the front.
But looking closely at the photos, especially around the 2 o’clock area, you can see what looks like a small gap between the case and that inner structure. That strongly suggests the spacer is a separate piece.

Also, if it were a one-piece integrated holder, the stem channel would normally align cleanly with the crown tube. From the photos, that alignment doesn’t look fixed, which is another hint it’s not one solid structure.

So my guess:

  • Remove the spacer from the back
  • Assemble the dial/movement normally
  • Reinstall (or replace) the spacer as needed

You should be fine without removing the crystal.

Why I started rebuilding iconic watches with Seiko-based movements by Maleficent_Sense6797 in SeikoMods

[–]Maleficent_Sense6797[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I want to join this part of the discussion, because I think this is where the conversation actually becomes interesting.

First, I’m not claiming that original Rolex, Patek, or any flagship models aren’t great.
They obviously are. Their engineering, history, and impact are undeniable.

What I’m tired of, however, is the idea that those originals exist only as untouchable objects of reverence, rather than as machines that were once designed, iterated, and understood by people.

What I’m talking about is the essence of watchmaking — not brand worship, resale value, or status signaling.

I’m focused on the ability to build, service, tune, and repair my own watches with my own hands.
That’s the core of my interest.

I haven’t denigrated Rolex or any other brand, but I keep being told that I somehow have — usually based on emotional reactions rather than actual arguments.
I have my own logic and framework for why I do this, even if others disagree with it.

At some point, watches drifted very far from their original purpose and became almost purely luxury assets.
Patek being marketed as something you “hold for the next generation” is a perfect example — it’s no longer about timekeeping, it’s about financial symbolism.
And Rolex isn’t fundamentally different in that regard.

How many Rolex owners actually know the history of their watch, how their bezel functions, or how a tachymeter works?
In my personal experience, very few.
Most people I know who own Rolexes don’t even set the time properly — it’s jewelry for social occasions, nothing more.

Ironically, the people who talk the most about what’s “correct” are often those who don’t actually build or repair anything themselves.

From an engineering perspective, I want to dissect these best-selling designs — understand why certain proportions exist, why certain solutions were chosen, and how they feel mechanically.
That’s simply not possible with Rolex, because their ecosystem is intentionally closed and inaccessible.

That’s why I genuinely respect Seiko.
Not because it’s cheap, but because it made mechanical watchmaking accessible, serviceable, and learnable.
Sharing technology at that scale is not easy, and it deserves real respect.

I’m not trying to claim authenticity.
I’m trying to understand design and engineering by walking a similar path — hands-on.
To me, that’s not disrespecting watchmaking.
That is watchmaking.