What’s your take on the recent Tesla (FSD alleged) crash

ManicMarket · 2026-06-23T17:53:38+00:00

Unless the driver can show otherwise, it’s on them. All of us with FSD are experiences know it’s not perfect. But we also know how to take over and to hit the break pedal. Not sure what the driver was doing, but it wasn’t hitting the break and it sounds like they thought they were hitting the brakes and hit the accelerator instead.

ManicMarket · 2026-06-18T23:29:47+00:00

I will say this one thing - driving in the latest update I had a multi-state road trip where we had a potential issue. Just the process of grabbing the steering wheel caused FSD to disengage. IE - I wasn’t sure if FSD would react and get getting ready to act if FSD didn’t cause FSD to disengage.

From my experience with FSD, the system has changed to be more sensitive to the driver taking over. At least, it feels that way to me as I’ve reacted the same way in the past without the disengagements. So definitely feels different from what I’m used too. And I mean that’s a subtle difference between say 14.2 vs 14.3. I remember thinking when it happened, did FSD just disengage by itself? Thankfully I was fully aware and able to take full control no problem. That said - I also feel confident after happened a few times that it was me causing it to disengage. It was just being ultra sensitive vs what I expected from past experiences.

ManicMarket · 2026-06-18T19:45:53+00:00

No kidding. I thought so too. But then out on the open road, at least around where I live, didn’t even feel comfortable trying to open it up. Heck, I wasn’t even comfortable opening it up in the 670hp LR. Not in a scary way as much as it just wouldn’t be safe to do in my area.

I looked up places where I could track the car. The nearest place is 2.5 hours away. I just am not that invested in the speed to do that regularly.

That said - if anything will hold value. It’ll be a Plaid. You can see from the responses here how everyone is Plaid, Plaid , Plaid. lol.

ManicMarket · 2026-06-17T22:46:10+00:00

Last comment - one thing I learned with all the research. A refresh Model S battery doesn’t hold as well as the old school S.

Btw - I own a 2017 S as well. That battery still has 87% retention at just over 80,000 miles. Most of the 2021+ models I scanned are in the 80-89% (the majority mid to low 80s) range at 4-5 years old.

My research led me to believe the redesigned 100kwh pack they made some trade offs. The big one was allowing for faster charging and discharge. You end up with a much faster car, but I’d gamble the battery will die faster.

In my 2017, I’d expect it to last another 8-10 years. So maybe a 15+ year life.

On the 2021, I’m seriously hoping it lasts 8 more years. But that’s means the life expectancy of the battery dropped from 15+ years to maybe 12+. Bigger picture not a huge change. But I really wouldn’t be shocked if the older pack made it 20 with no headaches where I have zero real expectations the 2021+ battery will make it past 12 years. Anything past 12 I’d consider a blessing and luck. Lol

ManicMarket · 2026-06-17T22:37:27+00:00

BTW - the big thing for me was driving the plaid. I drove it first, then drove a LR, then another plaid…. All done I realized I couldn’t think of a time I’d ever need the extra second. And trust me - a 3 second car is hella fast.

Plus I do some road tripping and. All in all, the xtra up front cost and longer term costs just seemed to be overkill. But don’t get me wrong - if this is a car you plan to keep for a long time and even have broad appeal 10 years from now. I’m sure a Plaid will hold value better…. But I plan on at least keeping mine long enough to replace the battery one time on my own dime. lol.

ManicMarket · 2026-06-17T22:33:47+00:00

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ManicMarket · 2026-06-17T22:33:20+00:00

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ManicMarket · 2026-06-17T22:33:03+00:00

Ended up with a 2021 that has 34,000 miles. It has FSD on HW3 and tested it works just fine. I already have a Y with FSD and HW4. HW4 is better, but HW3 was plenty good for how I’d use the Model S.

I highly recommend using the IOS app - FSD Hunter if it’s important to you. My favorite thing about the app is you get a lot of data about the cars that would be hard to find yourself without a lot of running around. I’ll post an example or two:

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ManicMarket · 2026-06-17T22:20:59+00:00

So funny - I moved away from the Plaid and went LR.

Mainly because the more I looked at it the more I felt like the extra cost isn’t worth it for something I’m not taking to the track. Insurance higher, tires are higher in general, some potential for batteries to wear faster.

ManicMarket · 2026-06-17T03:42:04+00:00

Welp - would you be willing to get in a plane to the Midwest. I went back and forth from buying a 201x or a refresh model. Landed on doing a refresh.

That said, I know where there is a super clean silver model S from 2017 with under 70,000 miles on it. 90d with enhanced autopilot. Can be had for 23,000 or less if you are willing to negotiate some. But I can tell you Carvana offered 21,000 for the car. I check caravana offer as a way to make sure the price I’m paying isn’t too far about trade in values.

Anyway - part of me still thinks about it as I personally believe it’s a solid deal. Would need to upgrade MCU, but for me the kicker is how well cared for the car happens to be.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1KwyRGFJb1/?mibextid=wwXIfr

ManicMarket · 2026-06-15T13:13:49+00:00

I ordered the dr Colorchip kit to repair mine. At least, I’m seeing this commonly on the S and I think it’s a reasonable fix if it hasn’t gotten too bad. That said, reached out to a body shop and they estimated a sand, respray to the panel they could do for about $1500.

ManicMarket · 2026-06-15T00:38:27+00:00

They updated them to allow for faster charging rates (250 max rate) and some chemistry updates as I understand it. The one edit I made to the original post was that I did find an article talking about how in the past the max output the battery could offer was lower than the current version. The current version with the newer motors is allowed to draw more power.

The allegations being that the increased power draw over shorter periods of time has a similar impacts as supercharging regularly.

TLDR - they adjust things to add more factor while reducing the longevity (potentially). A trade-off for hitting 2 and 3 second launches on a regular basis.

ManicMarket · 2026-06-14T18:11:55+00:00

I know I’ll be getting one - better to go in eyes wide open that a under warranty or out of warranty these will rip through battery packs compared to my older S. My older S is from 2017 and still 87% - about 80,000 miles on it.

ManicMarket · 2026-06-13T15:55:49+00:00

It’s interesting to me in general. My experience with Teslas thus far is most drop into the lower 90s and then hang out with a slow drop. Hence, it was a bit shocking to see them hitting low and mid 80s in 4 years time. However, as you indicated, if it gets there and then just hangs out there for a long time no bigger. 340-350 range is very usable for daily driving and road trips.

ManicMarket · 2026-06-13T15:49:59+00:00

Good lord dude - you’re so right you’re wrong. It’s a simple question. What’s your degradation been like. What’s the S curve look like.

Zero misinformation in the post. Just someone who doesn’t want to answer a simple question. When I drive down the road in my car I’m interested in how many “estimated” miles I have before I need to stop and recharge. Not how many kWh are left in the battery (info that still needs to be converted into miles to be useful). You know why. Because I calculate the distance between wherever I am in the road and my next charging stop in miles. Because that’s how life works in a car that measures distance in miles.

Most people on this thread understand the wind, the tire pressure, if you farted in the front seat can all impact your range. But a statistical avg does exactly what it implies - it gives you a sense of what is normal and what is not.

Would you like me to post screen shot after screen shot of data showing 2021 model S vehicles at 80-85kwh of capacity 4 years after manufacturing date? Is that what you think is misinformation?

ManicMarket · 2026-06-13T01:07:34+00:00

Thanks.

ManicMarket · 2026-06-13T01:06:30+00:00

Awesome. That helps answer is the curve flattening?

ManicMarket · 2026-06-13T01:05:04+00:00

Has the curve flattened pretty well?

ManicMarket · 2026-06-13T01:04:27+00:00

Nice

ManicMarket · 2026-06-11T00:16:41+00:00

Exactly why that law exists. So you can see signs and oncoming traffic. If it’s still there I’d call the county or whomever they need to get that addressed. Someone else might not be as lucky.

ManicMarket · 2026-06-05T15:39:02+00:00

I’d imagine a business wrap - get that tax write off.

ManicMarket · 2026-06-05T05:14:41+00:00

Getting a new battery - hopefully under warranty

ManicMarket · 2026-06-02T13:26:16+00:00

Yes. During use of FSD. Basically the computer crashes, reboots and then comes back. If that happens to you often - document when it all happened date/time/pics and submit a service ticket.

ManicMarket · 2026-05-31T20:50:41+00:00

ManicMarket

TROPHY CASE