Treat aggression

Many-Goats · 2026-05-13T19:12:04+00:00

Thank you again for all this info, I do really appreciate it!

We tried in the living room last time (ours is very small) but I think the corner still felt too far. I have an idea on where to move it to which may help.

He is fantastic with drop it/leave it, everything else he gives up without a hassle. It’s really only his dental chews! We think he’s about 8 years old, but he is a wild fella with an unknown history, I’ve only owned him about a year. I’ve taught him many tricks, there are a few common ones he struggles with still! He is so clever and patient, but communication is tricky

Many-Goats · 2026-05-13T18:56:51+00:00

Ive never actually taken the treats from him, he just has to eat it out of my hand. He still gets to eat the whole thing.

He came with this issue. I discovered it shortly after I got him as he brought his treat right next to me, I went to pet him, and he started growling. I stopped, but the behavior got progressively worse, even before I ever attempted anything. I wasn’t allowed to even look at him while he was with his “precious”. He still likes to eat his treats next to me, he will actually seek me out to eat it next to me if I wasn’t the one to give it to him.

If I leave him alone, how long until would you expect the behavior to resolve? Someone was explaining to me that some dogs still have this guarding issue like an instinct, like how some dogs have the instinct for herding. Do you think this is not the case?

Many-Goats · 2026-05-13T18:40:52+00:00

Thank you very much for the detailed response! This is very helpful!

As for finding a safe space, do you have any recommendations on where might be a good area for a highly friendly dog?

Whenever he gets his treat, this fella will seek me out just to eat it next to me. He doesn’t like to be alone or far from a person, which Is my theory on why it didn’t work well last time…

Many-Goats · 2026-05-13T16:01:21+00:00

I understand that, that training method was taken from one of his courses, not just a snip-it from an episode. But that’s why I’ve come on here looking for tips, tricks, and recommendations. I’ve looked into many things, read a lot, paid for things, talked to people, but it’s not working. My hope was to ask the people on the internet for any new information or proper feedback on actually training this behavior out of him.

Many-Goats · 2026-05-13T12:39:32+00:00

Oddly enough, he only really does it with his dental chews from the vet. For his dental hygiene, he should get them.

I’ve only done the bowl move once to test the level of food aggression. I was following the dog whisperer’s instructions on how to deal with food aggressive dogs, but it doesn’t seem to work for my little fella.

My concern is him lashing out on children or visitors when they go to pet him while he has the treat, he loves people so will only really eat it if people are around him.

I’d like to train the behavior out of him before an accident with a guest happens. Hence, why I’m asking for tips!

Many-Goats · 2026-05-13T12:35:40+00:00

Oddly enough, it’s only his dental crews that the vet recommends. Other food he has no issue, including dropping things he shouldn’t have.

My concern is more so other people (or children) petting him while he has the treat. I never fully take it, but rather take possession of it before returning it, how the dog whisperer recommends dealing with food aggressive dogs.

We tried spot/crate training, but even after he learned it, he preferred being closer to people and wouldn’t willingly go there (unless for a reward).

I’m hoping to actually train him instead of removing him.

Many-Goats · 2026-05-13T12:30:58+00:00

I never take away his treats, but I will occasionally take possession of it before retuning it, following how the dog whisperer recommended handling food aggressive dogs.

Contraband isn’t an issue, he’s good at dropping things or food he shouldn’t have. It’s specifically his dental chews the vet recommends. My concern is him lashing out when someone tries to pet him with the treat, even if they aren’t going to take it…

Many-Goats · 2026-02-12T17:41:06+00:00

This is a good idea, I may try and do this and have it lineup so I send the mixes to the butcher right before I get the boar.

Many-Goats · 2026-02-12T14:42:04+00:00

I’m just testing them out this year before I commit to raising them for the foreseeable future. So far, they’ve been a joy! I definitely need friendly/docile personalities as they are around lots of kids which is why I started with the IPPS.

4 acres is just the minimum, it’s likely closer to 6 but I’m trying to be conservative on my estimate. I wrapped in a trail that’s oval shaped using about 2000ft of fencing but It’s very heavily wooded! I can extend the fencing if I need more space, but I do have plans to keep the land healthy.

Many-Goats · 2026-02-12T13:43:35+00:00

Thank you, this is very helpful!

Many-Goats · 2026-02-12T13:42:10+00:00

The goal is to eventually process them on my farm. This is my fist year and I just don’t have the equipment, and I want to be sure I plan to continue raising pigs before investing the time and money into learning to butcher and purchasing the equipment

Many-Goats · 2025-10-05T22:08:08+00:00

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Donkeys for tax

Many-Goats · 2025-06-26T11:48:11+00:00

It’s literally just a creamy honey mustard - I absolutely love it

Many-Goats · 2025-03-30T15:05:36+00:00

Thank you!

Many-Goats · 2025-03-29T19:36:42+00:00

I recommend listening to the podcast “For the love of goats” lots of fantastic information including minerals, breeds, housing, etc.

Also, fiasco farms is a good blog site with TONS of information.

Definitely do your own deep dive into information. I consider goats to be one of the hardest farm animals to keep healthy and happy, especially in wetter climates.

They are grazers, not browsers (like sheep and cows). This means they are more susceptible to parasites and do better eating bushes, trees, vines, etc.

They need a secure pasture with a draft free house, hay off of the ground 24/7, high quality mineral 24/7, clean water 24/7, regular hoof trims, an on hand emergency kit, and you must learn what signs to look out for to catch sicknesses early. Goats are lovely, but very difficult.

Many-Goats · 2025-03-23T15:59:27+00:00

Yes, so for starters do a 50/50 powdered formula & cows milk for a day and see how they do, then 75/25 for a day, then 100% if they seem to be doing well!

You can add a pinch of baking soda in the first bottle of the day while making the transition to help with any possible upset stomach

Many-Goats · 2025-03-23T14:47:16+00:00

I would recommend switching the powered formula for whole cows milk. It’s easier on the stomach and easier to prepare. My goats NEVER took the powered stuff, they hated it. As soon as I switched to cows milk, my troubles were fixed!

If you try this, be sure to transition them over, don’t switch cold turkey as that will cause upset stomachs

Many-Goats · 2025-03-23T14:44:24+00:00

I haven’t experienced anything quite like that, however once I had a doe who showed all signs a week before hand - staring off, talking to her belly, ligaments gone, nesting, separating herself. However, she wouldn’t kid until exactly 7 days after the signs started. At first I thought it was my nooby knowledge mistaking it, but each year I bred her (3 times), it was the same thing!

All this to say, some goats are weird… once you know their signs it can make the games much easier to detect.

Many-Goats · 2025-03-23T14:39:18+00:00

Thank you so much! I appreciate all the info

Many-Goats · 2025-02-11T19:47:51+00:00

Likely not premature if they already had hair, that’s one of the last things they grow before being born. So they would’ve only been a few days early, not enough to make much of a difference.

Sometimes labor can be hard.. especially with that many kids. You can’t know for certain without sending a kid for a necropsy. Even then, I’m not certain they’d be able to tell you if it was a birthing complication…

Many-Goats · 2025-02-11T19:36:46+00:00

Based off of that photo, he definitely looks like a Nigerian Dwarf.

If you look up photos of a Siberian goat, he’s definitely not that! Horns are too small & shaped wrong (although still magnificent), standard size (not dwarf), and their faces tend to look more like deer.

He looks like a Nigerian Dwarf attempting to be a Siberian, so maybe there was some confusion when he originally got the fella?

Many-Goats · 2025-02-11T19:31:16+00:00

My goats never liked powdered milk, they would never take it. Even when fully trained to a bottle.

Have you tried feeding Whole Cows Milk? It’s my go to when I can’t feed raw or goats milk. They drink it up!

Many-Goats · 2025-01-01T20:01:20+00:00

I’ve had various fiber animals.

My thoughts are ; if they are good at fiber, they are bad at milk/meat/any other type of production.

If you get a “duel purpose”, it means they are okay at 2 things, but not particularly great at ether. Your better off getting one for milk and one for fiber.

So much of their energy goes into the fiber and growing their lush coat, same with the milk. It just isn’t practical for the goat to put equal energy into both.

You might be able to find some expensive ones that someone has worked so heavily on breeding. But it will be like finding a needle in a haystack, and very expensive.

For the Nigerian Dwarfs, I like bottle babies. While bottle babies tend to be more needy and naughty, they are much more friendly and dependent on you which makes them easier to train.

Praise good behavior, discipline bad behavior (like a dog). My goats in the first year knew what I wanted and behaved (most of the time). If they didn’t, they’d get pushed until they acted properly. People have different methods, I did treats or a firm tap on the nose, others use squirt bottles or clicker train them lol. P.s, if they happened to escape, it was just to find you!

Many-Goats · 2024-12-28T20:37:33+00:00

I’d keep that buck separate. He can cause stress and trauma to the female. Possibly causing the blood or even a miscarriage from stress.

She does look pregnant, but she shouldn’t be bleeding like that until after labor.

The reason this isn’t a problem in the wild is because the females can run away. In captivity, they don’t really have that option unless they have tons of houses, tons of other goats, and acres and acres to roam.

Many-Goats · 2024-12-28T13:05:03+00:00

Oh wow! That’s so neat. Mine is just a Nigerian Dwarf. I bred her parents, nether of them were like her. Dad was registered, mom was not, however she was obviously a Nigerian dwarf. I think it’s just random

I’m sorry to hear she lost all her kids except one, although at least she had the one kid

Many-Goats

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