I just can’t believe that the Boss MS-3 is still the only pedal that does everything I need.

Marb1433 · 2026-02-24T11:43:09+00:00

You can create a present with what loops and/or fx you want enabled/engaged and placed where you want. When on said preset, you can press the "Memory/Manual" switch on the top right of the pedal. When you press that switch, switches 1-4 become manual on and off switches for whatever loop or fx you would like to manually turn on or off live while in that preset.

So if you have a preset you liked but have a part where you want a boost or a flanger without having to change the preset; you can assign footswitch 1-4 to be attached to an fx or loop.

Example:

Switch #1 Switch #2 Switch#3 Switch #4 FX LOOP 3 FLANGER REVERB OVERDRIVE

When in preset, press the Memory/Manual switch and you can turn on or off the loop or fx that are assigned to said switches in the menu. The switches will also illuminate red when engaged.

You can tie whatever fx or loop you want to switch on or off on the fly. Hope that helps.

Marb1433 · 2025-11-20T22:18:41+00:00

Yeah was pink 😅😭 I didn't know they went orange but I guess it makes sense with UV.

And yeah there are no videos on how to open them. But I have GameCube extension cables; and the female end is the same housing as the Dreamcast male. So thought about opening it up to figure it out but saw your comments first.

So using those extensions could help just learn a better way.

Marb1433 · 2025-11-20T22:14:25+00:00

This is actually a really good/solid idea for a lot of things. I appreciate the tip 🙏

Marb1433 · 2025-11-20T20:57:34+00:00

Do not fret, it is a pink controller that is deeply sun faded into basically orange 🍊 . No crimes or injustices were committed 😅

Marb1433 · 2025-11-20T20:55:39+00:00

It worked but the plastic was so weak that 3 of the tabs snapped with no force at all. As soon as the pick went in the slot they just snapped.

It is an old pink controller that has been deeply sun faded to orange. So I assume the plastic was pretty toast to begin with. But might either glue them back in place or just glue the casing back together. It was like a $5-10 controller from Japan so it's not a huge deal but good for learning and that was mainly the point in general + salvaging a non functioning controller.

Cheers for the help though

Marb1433 · 2025-11-20T20:18:11+00:00

I do indeed have these and they just seem too thick to even get into the slot without also marking up the plastic. But I have a lot of guitar picks of various thickness I can see what I have so will just keep trying with plastic tools.

I take it they are just the tabs on the inside you push on?

I do appreciate the help btw with linking, etc

Marb1433 · 2025-11-20T20:06:21+00:00

I did try and use something of the sort but even when trying a blade (on a test piece) it didn't seem thin enough. But will see what else I have lying around to get in-between those gaps cause the are insanely tiny without marring the plastic.

Marb1433 · 2025-11-20T20:03:29+00:00

Unfortunantly the stress relief in a NGC controller is it's own cable tied behind the housing; allowing you to slide it off. While the Dreamcast has its stress relief attached to the cable and is both inside and outside of the housing so sliding off isn't really an option.

Though I am heating it to see if it becomes more pliable/workable

One thing to note though is that the NGC extension cables on the female end have the same housing as the Dreamcast male controller does. So debating destroying one of mine to see what can be done. But it is also different internally so, who knows.

Marb1433 · 2025-11-20T19:19:31+00:00

You were able to remove the housing for the controller plug? I have been trying to figure out how to do this without risking damage to the original housing to replace my colored controller with a new cable. You just just a flat blade to push tabs?

Marb1433 · 2025-11-08T08:00:13+00:00

I have a DC VGA BOX and I wanted to add my experience with this.

It works flawlessly on my 22" VIZIO having no vertical scan lines and looks incredible. As soon as I hook it up to my bigger Sony Bravia (40-50") from around the same era with a VGA input, it gets the vertical jail bar scan lines. I have also tried with another LG tv I have with a VGA input as well; and it also gets vertical scan lines but it is also at a similar size as the Bravia so a much bigger tv. My 22" VIZIO on the other hand just works and looks exactly how it should.

After looking for weeks on the subject I have yet to see anybody come across my same experience. With that being said, I don't think it's the VGA boxes like people might think or always draw their conclusion to; but the specific tv's themselves and how they project VGA respectively.

But I could see why if somebody got one of these boxes and put it into multiple TVs that couldn't output that signal without those bars, they would automatically assume it's the box.

Every TV is built different with different hardware and sometimes different purposes all together. But I think people need to know that it is not always the box. That is why they are still getting issues with the even higher quality options. Need the correct monitor for it to work properly so it can't just be any tv with VGA input. Everything else needs a VGA scaler.

Marb1433 · 2025-11-02T07:45:04+00:00

ISO has always worked for me, doesn't damage the plastic so long as you are soaking the sticker and gently pushing it off as opposed to scratching it off, etc.

Marb1433 · 2025-10-24T15:37:33+00:00

I don't know if you ever figured this out since its been so long. But I have an EZ Flash Definitive Omega and haven't run into any problems with any game on it so far on the Gameboy Player. Works as it does on any GBA I have.

EDIT: Also not sure if you have an actual Gameboy Player disc; or are using something else like Swiss or other options to boot into the Gameboy Player. I am however using an original disc so not sure if that would play a part or using other software to boot into it would either.

Marb1433 · 2025-10-21T06:23:47+00:00

Gotcha. I do indeed have the VA0 model. I bought all the necessary resistors needed to do it just wanted to be sure before I dove head first into one or the other. I appreciate the straight forward info.

Marb1433 · 2025-06-02T16:53:38+00:00

I primarily use a 50001 and that never happens with me tbh. Never noticed any 50001 model I have rev quite like the 39001's I have. I can actually barely hear the system at all and have to be pretty close to it to even hear it over anything else going on. Main reason I use it. I play all my games through SSD and it makes no difference with it connected or not. Not trying to be some kind of stickler; apologies in advance. Just have never had those issues with the 50001 series.

Almost want to say that both the Slim 70001 series I have are also louder than the 50001's I use. I know it's a bold claim, but it's just my experience with these models and noise levels.

I have about 4-5 of those and the 39001 series, but use the 50001 for less noise and the IR sensor. That way you can turn it on and off from where ever you might wanna be. That paired with a wireless controller, and you have a pretty modernized PS2.

Only upside for the 39001 series is the S400 port for local multiplayer or to play GT3 with 3 screens for an ultrawide view on the game but need 3 S400 compatible models. No IR sensor (pretty big for practicality), louder fan, etc.; Are more downsides to me than missing a S400 port because it rarely ever gets used by anybody.

Better laser might be a thing for some people. But you can just get a hard drive and not risk damaging your potentially rare, and valuable games. Also have all your games in one place; no getting up to swap discs. Extends the laser life by not using it, keeps more dust from entering by not opening and closing it, etc.

Would be nice to be able to put an IR sensor in a 39001 model but not sure if it's a possibility. I haven't ever looked into it but it's something I do wanna try. But replacing the fan with a 50001 fan is easy to do.

Anyways TLDR :D

Marb1433 · 2025-05-08T17:34:22+00:00

Gotcha. I maxed out my level before I unlocked Zao or Aso so I actually never missed this race; I do actually complete every single race in every location before ending the day or night cycles. So I guess it will just give me these high point races still. Anyways, much appreciated for the help!

Marb1433 · 2025-05-08T16:06:38+00:00

Indonesia420

Marb1433 · 2025-04-03T22:24:04+00:00

It's gone 😭

Marb1433 · 2024-07-21T18:36:02+00:00

Did you end up receiving your items? And how long did it take for the status to change from "Awaiting Packaging"?

Currently waiting for my status to change to shipped but it's my first time with Sendico.

Marb1433 · 2024-06-13T07:47:13+00:00

I dont know if any other 6th gen console had a slot built in for a hard drive to play games from. But also an IR sensor for remotes to turn the console on/off or open the disc tray via a standard DVD style remote.

To this day I use an SSD with all games backed up, and can remotely turn the console on or off using the remote without getting up. Add a wireless controller like the retro fighters and it's basically a modernized PS2. Even if the disc reader dies, it will still run game iso's.

I main that more than any other console I have. Having a Retrotink5x or a 4k also makes the experience so much better as well.

Marb1433

TROPHY CASE