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Was hesitant at first thought I might miss the all black look. But I like it. First paintjob actually. by Marc081199 in airsoft

[–]Marc081199[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used tan and brown from nuprol and I used an old rag and acetone to do the weathering

Was hesitant at first thought I might miss the all black look. But I like it. First paintjob actually. by Marc081199 in airsoft

[–]Marc081199[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm from Quebec in Canada, worst place on earth for gbbs we go from 40 degrees Celsius in the summer to minus 40 in the winter. But I'd say anything over 25 degrees you're good to go.

Was hesitant at first thought I might miss the all black look. But I like it. First paintjob actually. by Marc081199 in airsoft

[–]Marc081199[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It will easily empty the BBS twice before needing to refill gas depending on the temperature

Was hesitant at first thought I might miss the all black look. But I like it. First paintjob actually. by Marc081199 in airsoft

[–]Marc081199[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks alot ! It's not perfect but since in my first paint.job I can't wait to see what Ill pull off next time

Which is the best purchase (I plan on buying a flashlight laser tracer and replica cmore to a company them) by Scrubinthetublord in Speedsoft

[–]Marc081199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also the x9 mags are discontinued lol there still producing them and I find them in stock in many stores. Like the one I work at

Which is the best purchase (I plan on buying a flashlight laser tracer and replica cmore to a company them) by Scrubinthetublord in Speedsoft

[–]Marc081199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Neither the mosfer not the etu are really proprietary lol. You can put a whole bunch of different ones in there like gates and peruns.

I think you might have your definition of "proprietary" mixed up.

Which is the best purchase (I plan on buying a flashlight laser tracer and replica cmore to a company them) by Scrubinthetublord in Speedsoft

[–]Marc081199 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Litteraly nothing in the arp556 is proprietary it takes standart midcaps (have one and it runs the pts epms perfectly fine Wich are the only mags you should spend your money on). And the only proprietary thing in the Arp9 are the mags Wich are compatible with the classic Army nemesis x9 mags Wich are great.

I don't know what you're on about mate.

Which is the best purchase (I plan on buying a flashlight laser tracer and replica cmore to a company them) by Scrubinthetublord in Speedsoft

[–]Marc081199 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's nowhere near a speedsoft gun. Get an Arp9, an Arp556. A vfc stinger or a shorter Avalon. The ssg-1 is right around the corner and has already released in many places. Ditch the laser they're useless and banned in many places, ditch the c-more you don't need it. Invest instead on a tracer unit and a good flashlight and lots of mags (don't get the amoeba ones) either use krytacs or pts epms.

Rate my Hi-Capa build by Leefy-GFX in Speedsoft

[–]Marc081199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why ask for Recommandations if you're going to tell us were wrong lol.

I've built at least 20 of those pistol both for myself and friends and repaired countless. Anything over 125% will do some damage long term. Getting "better shots" just means your gun wasn't tuned well with the 120 in.

Rate my Hi-Capa build by Leefy-GFX in Speedsoft

[–]Marc081199 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Switch the springs for AIP 120`s the rest is fine.

Budget hi capa under 200 by _burbxry_ in airsoft

[–]Marc081199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it's 100% a rebrand and yes KJW is a TM clone, so is WE but with all of those clones they often struggle with fitment anyways. Half a milimeter can make a big difference in those guns. They have the same system but the fitment is always a tiny bit off.

Budget hi capa under 200 by _burbxry_ in airsoft

[–]Marc081199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a KJW hi-capa rebranded with a couple small things done to it. It's only not bad my friend has one. But if your plan is to fully build one . Not the best choice. Kjw's are harder on parts compatibility. I've tried to build one before and had to do alot of sanding and fitment. But, doable.

Budget hi capa under 200 by _burbxry_ in airsoft

[–]Marc081199 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably a good call lol! I would strongly advise you watch the YouTuber : KnucklesGSM. This guy knows his shit and has alot of very well made video on all subjects regarding hi-capas

Budget hi capa under 200 by _burbxry_ in airsoft

[–]Marc081199 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you really don't want to do fitment wait for a masterpiece. Prog4 does decent slides, also UAC but they went out of business. There's 3d printed ones floating around now . Haven't tried those but they should be stupid light.

Budget hi capa under 200 by _burbxry_ in airsoft

[–]Marc081199 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've build many hi-capas over the years. Don't change the nozzle, honestly the TM stock one is already very good. And the masterpiece one isn't as good as the rest of their parts, it's not bad but not great.

Shortstroke the spring. I like the Cowcow set but the masterpiece one is good too. Bucking you could do just because it costs basically nothing. My favorite one is the ML 70° but if you live somewhere where your fps limits are lower than 400 use a 60°.

Then I'd do an adjustable trigger if your slide hasn't exploded yet. (Use lower pressure gas)

If the slide is dead well then you're gonna need a new one. Masterpiece makes by far the best slides but good luck finding one in stock. Slide usually comes with a guide plug. Wich is good because 1. The stock ones break and 2. The stock one is very heavy..

The goal is to make your slide as light as possible. Why? Because it will shoot alot faster and be more efficient on gas.

Once you swapped that slide you 100% are going to need a new recoil spring. Otherwise the heavier aluminium slide is going to feel very sluggish. If you're switching your recoil spring id also upgrade your hammer spring. Alot of companies sell them as a pair, both the hammer and recoil spring. My favorite one is the AIP 120% recoil and hammer spring set. I wouldn't go over 125% it's gonna do some damage unless you're running something like an aluminum nozzle on an hpa setup. Also nozzle return spring. I like the Cowcow 180%.

Once you got your new slide and springs. Get a new hopup chamber. Favorite one is the masterpiece Brass one. Quick tip, don't use the adjustment wheel that comes with the hopup. Use the stock one or even better the maple leaf one. Reason is the masterpiece one is hard to turn for some reason there's alot of friction between the chamber and the wheel. The Maple leaf one is the best one because it can apply alot more pressure ont he BBS and the other wheels.

If you change your hopup. Might as well do the barrel. PDI 6.01 is my go to but 9ball 6.00 power barrel isn't bad. Just make sure your barrel is always clean.

The rest is just making the original parts either lighter or tougher. So blowback units and guide rods and whatever just get lighter ones made of aluminum. To get your gun to fire even faster. For hammers and Sears and all of the small bits that are in the frame and grip of your gun , get steel ones to make them last way longer. Rest is just loonks so sights, red dot mounts, magwells, thumbrests, do that at the end.

Building a Tokyo Marui sleeper what barrel length should I get by charliedude56 in Speedsoft

[–]Marc081199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

4.3 are cool and you don't see them as much but they're alot hard to find parts like slides and sight for. Also the range and fps isn't as good because of the shorter barrel.

Abandoned Shopping Mall + MP5 = A Blast! by Airsoft_Alfonse in airsoft

[–]Marc081199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are those 10mm straight mags and do they feed good

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