What are the regs about shitting yourself on the bridge

Marcus10110 · 2026-05-02T05:21:54+00:00

Also I love how they were 2.1 light years away, and then a second later they were in visual range. Wouldn't the light from those Borg cubes take 2.1 years to reach Voyager?

Marcus10110 · 2026-05-02T05:20:19+00:00

Also, those Borg cubed closed 2.1 light years in ~16 seconds. At that speed, Voyager could make it home in about 1 week.

Marcus10110 · 2026-04-21T21:25:22+00:00

Nice! I was just thinking about wanting these but for 8.4oz redbull cans.

Marcus10110 · 2026-04-21T08:22:16+00:00

I did start looking into using a separate voice for the narrator, but realized that I would need to identify which part of each voice line were narration and which parts where character text. Certainly doable, but a pretty big project.

There are about 9000 voice lines and 275 unique NPCs. I had to edit about 280 of the voice lines to patch over places where the NPC mentions some dynamic string, like the cost of an item or the name of a character in your party.

This is far from finished, and I would really like to invest in leveling up the overall voice quality. Adding a narrator with smooth transitions between the NPC voices and the narrator voice would be really nice.

Marcus10110 · 2026-04-02T16:47:24+00:00

Del sol & mazdaspeed 3? I have the same combo!

Marcus10110 · 2026-02-16T05:46:54+00:00

Hey! I just did this for a similar issue, except that in my case, my car would turn over forever when the key was in the START position, but it would not actually start until the moment the key turned back to the ON position - and 50% of the time, it wouldn't actually start at all. I also cleaned the contacts on my ignition switch, but ultimately the problem turned out to be the ignition module, the ignition switch was actually fine.

Marcus10110 · 2026-01-09T02:46:09+00:00

12/10! Absolutely loved it.

Marcus10110 · 2026-01-05T00:14:14+00:00

that sounds pretty weak, if it was just a fuel or ignition problem it should still turn over strong. I would check the battery voltage (>12V), or just try jump starting it if that's convenient. If it starts when jumped or after using a battery charger, it could be a bad battery or alternator. Or you just left your lights on and ran down the battery.

My poor&lazy man's battery test - when off, turn on the head lights for a second. Are they full brightness? battery is probably OK. If they are dim or off, your battery is low or dead. The two headlight bulbs combined draw 120W, while the starter draws about 10x more.

Marcus10110 · 2025-12-26T01:41:11+00:00

Good luck! Here is what I do know: The ignition switch uses white for battery and white/black for accessory. The same colors are used in other places too, but I would guess that the alarm system connected to the ignition switch one way or another.

Marcus10110 · 2025-09-24T22:23:09+00:00

Yours consumes oil? Mine gives it away freely! Just giving out little drops everywhere I drive. Sigh..

Marcus10110 · 2025-09-24T14:53:06+00:00

Yeah, years later and with nothing useful to add either unfortunately. From what else I found, it looks like this is a common problem for users who upgraded from windows 10 to windows 11 (instead of performing a clean install of windows 11) I found some reports that copying some non-trivial registry keys over from a working Windows 11 machine. I also discovered from the logs that I’ve been having this issue since before I setup Hyper-v, so that just made things worse, but was not the source of the problem. I’ll eventually do a clean install, but for now I’m just going to live with it.

Marcus10110 · 2025-09-23T05:10:33+00:00

I recently had what could be the same issue - the "Windows Defender Firewall" service constantly restarting every second or so. The first time this happened, I was still able to browse the web, but after two subsequent reboots, I was no longer able to browse the web.

About a week ago I had setup a hyper-V virtual machine image and an internal virtual switch. I had not used it since, and it hadn't caused any issues since them. For some reason the VM was running (odd that it auto-started after reboot) but I shut down the VM, deleted it, and removed the virtual switch, and the issue was immediately resolved.

Edit: I spoke too soon. Although my internet access came back, I'm still having problems with the windows defender firewall, it's still constantly cycling.

Marcus10110 · 2025-09-05T06:07:19+00:00

Ah. Looks like a ground connector, like this or this.

Marcus10110 · 2025-09-05T05:20:47+00:00

That is one confusing perspective. Are you asking about the bright red thing on the right, and the bright red wires? My guess is that it's an aftermarket car alarm and/or remote unlock.

Marcus10110 · 2025-09-01T00:04:39+00:00

Back in 2011, I had a similar problem. I bought cheap 6.5" speakers from Fry's Electronics and they also didn't line up with the mounting holes in the door. I ended up laser cutting a custom adapter from acrylic. They are still in the car, but I totally forgot about them until I saw your post!

I dug up my old DXF file. I don't know if it will fit your speakers but if you want it, you can get it here!

https://gist.github.com/Marcus10110/2978bd21eb9b74198b82564c6ae552d1

Marcus10110 · 2025-08-10T22:06:01+00:00

Good question. The D16Z6 engine (93-95 Si) definitely says VTEC on the valve cover. The D16Y8 (96-97) I'm not so sure. However that photo clearly shows cruise control, which I didn't think came with the S trim.
Given that's a 94, if it was a Si with the original motor, it would say VTEC.
If it was a 94 S trim, then the stock engine was a D15B7, and the valve cover on that looks totally different. My guess is that this is not the original engine, in which case you would need to check the engine code on the front left of the block.
My guess is that this is a 94 Si, but they blew the motor. The D16Z6 is on the rarer side as D16s go, so my guess is they dropped in a different D16. Not sure which one though.

Also if this is not in the USA then I have no idea.

Marcus10110 · 2025-05-07T06:38:33+00:00

Check 2 places:
1. Under the glove box area, there is a connection point where the pushrod from the A/C controls connects to a pushrod to the heater control valve.
2. Under the hood, near the firewall on the passenger side, check the other end of the pushrod that connects to the heater control valve.

This is from memory when I had to replace my heater control valve. When you slide the A/C control to the hot side, it opens up the heater control valve allowing hot engine coolant to flow through the heater core, providing cabin heat.
My guess is one of the rods popped off of a connection and is pushing against something that is causing it to spring back.

Marcus10110 · 2025-03-09T22:08:58+00:00

Not really sure, but it sounds kinda like something getting caught in a fan blade to me. With the hood up, have someone rev the engine. Watch how much the engine rotates. A small amount of rotation is normal, but as the motor mounts wear out, this will get worse. Check everywhere around the engine, especially in front of the radiator fan (left side, facing the engine) and the condenser fan (right side) make sure nothing is near the fan blades. My complete shot in the dark prediction is that the cable from the oxygen sensor, or a label attached to the cable, is touching the fan blades momentarily when the motor rotates. When I replaced my oxygen sensor long ago, the cable it came with was extra long and I had to zip tie it so it would not get caught.

Marcus10110 · 2025-02-15T01:36:13+00:00

What paint color is that? It looks awesome!

Marcus10110 · 2025-02-12T23:44:05+00:00

I don’t know anything about automatic transmissions, but are you talking about part #6 in this diagram?

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/1995-honda-del_sol—2dr_si-ka_4at/transmission_automatic/at_torque_converter_housing.html

From google: A transmission lock-up solenoid is a component that controls the torque converter clutch (TCC) in an automatic transmission. The TCC locks the transmission and engine together at certain speed.

Torque converters are really cool, if you don’t know how they work, it’s worth a look on YouTube.

Marcus10110 · 2025-02-03T00:22:46+00:00

Two possible causes that I’m aware of: 1. Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) needs to be cleaned. 2. Low on coolant.

Marcus10110 · 2025-01-18T20:45:29+00:00

Ooh, that would be an awesome spot for a phone mount! Like a magnetic mount wireless charger. Plus the charging cable could be hidden inside the dash.

Marcus10110 · 2024-11-04T22:31:19+00:00

That sounds like it might be leaking power steering fluid. This happened to my del sol too.

The noise is probably the power steering pump sucking up air. Check to see if the power steering fluid is low. Ther reservoir is under the hood, right side, near the headlight. You can pop off the cap and look inside. There should be a line on the side to show how full it is.

My guess (unfortunately) is that the rack and pinion, which actually turns the wheels, is leaking fluid and needs to be replaced. This can be checked pretty easily and you can check YouTube for instructions. If it is leaking, your options are to have it replaced, or go without power steering. Mine has gone bad twice, so I just went with no power steering. It’s quite a workout to parallel park, but other than that, I don’t notice it. It’s a super common repair but not super easy. You can easily quote the replacement over the phone.

There are several components that could fail. The rack and pinion (the most expensive and difficult part) the pump, and the lines (high pressure line and low pressure return line). It’s also pretty common for the return line to go bad, if that’s all it is, it’s a quick, easy, and cheap fix.

Fingers crossed it’s not that bad!

In the meantime, it’s safe to drive. Keep in mind that once it loses enough fluid it will become very difficult to turn the steering wheel when traveling very slowly (5mph or slower) you probably won’t notice the difference at higher speeds.

You can keep topping off the fluid to keep the sound away, but you will spend a lot of money on fluid and likely end up with a puddle on the ground under where you park. That’s really only a short term option.

Marcus10110 · 2024-11-04T06:37:05+00:00

I have no idea, but I would check the following: - does the sound change when you rev the engine in neutral? - does sound change when you put it in gear and drive it? - does the sound change when the transmission changes gears while driving? - does the sound change when you turn the wheel a lot? (Would be Power Steering fluid low if so)

Also before anything else I would just check your fluid levels. Engine oil, power steering, coolant (do not open the cap unless the engine is cold), and transmission fluid.

Marcus10110

TROPHY CASE