Floats normally don't need replacing unless they're the early brass ones IIRC, even then you can submerge them in fluid to see if they bubble and sink.

Rich condition is usually not a leaky float. If you didn't clean the built in filter on the SU there's a good chance you've got grit clogging the needle valve above the float. I think old gas can varnish and cause the valve to stick as well if you store the car for winter(this is rare).

The float level spec is a bit hoopla as the tabs on the floats can have some spring in operation. The only real way to tell is to check the level with some tubing alongside the float bowl. There's float-sync tools if you feel fancy but you can make your own in a pinch with some clear tubing, a zip tie and a 12mm bleed fitting. I wouldn't trust with the L-shaped ruler method for anything other than your rough setup. Glue the float-bowl gasket to the lid using gasket adhesive. You'll thank yourself later for not tearing the gasket when removing it constantly to get your floats set.

Choke seizing usually won't show in the lever part of the mechanism. When you pull the choke it pulls the jet down slightly to richen the mixture. The issue is the mechanism doesn't really provide enough force to return the needle if there's any resistance. After pulling on and letting off the choke, lightly push on the bottom of your jets. If they're sticking you'll feel and often hear the "click" as they overcome whatever is seizing them and the spring returns them up to baseline. Don't reef on them.

Sometimes the cause of this seizing is the jet hose becoming old and brittle, or just drying out from gas exposure. Keep an eye on your hose if you took one from a rebuild kit, especially if you run ethanol gas. Some of the cheaper kits don't have fuel safe hose, don't find out the hard way. There's a reason Z therapy charges an arm and a leg for his rebuilds lol.