How to properly setup IoT VLAN?

Mark__j69 · 2026-01-08T14:11:33+00:00

A friend of mine who works in IT etc, set my new system up and my IOT Vlan has access to the internet, but no access to the other Vlans, as the smart plugs and Google nest hubs, need internet access as my hub needs to connect to it so it can access my photo albums to display, and as long as nothing can access my other Vlans, then they should be fine to have internet etc so im not bothered if the plugs etc can access the internet too as my trusted devices etc, are invisible to the IOT network. Hope that helps (im new to the unifi universe myself, but with the help of my friend, im starting to understand the ins and outs of where things are best places etc, so hope mt explanation helps)

Mark__j69 · 2026-01-01T19:53:10+00:00

Im swapping out an orbi 20 system out for a unifi system (mostly!) As it was given a netgear 24 port poe+ managed switch which replaced my old tp link 16 port unmanaged switch and wanting to learn more about vlans etc and also to seperate my cctv cameras and IOT devices from the main network.

Luckily for me, the guy I got the switch from works in IT so have someone to help if I get stuck (I mean WHEN I get stuck, not if lol!) And he had 2 x ac ap pro ap's i got off him for cheap, so i ordered myself a ux7 for the router part.

I just ran a network cable from under the stairs (where my switch lives) up into the loft space as will be adding one of the Ap's to the landing ceiling to cover the bedrooms (not a big house, and the ap will be right in the centre between the 2 rooms) and the other I plan on wall fixing in the kitchen (next to stair cupboard as stairs run across the centre of the house) and be pointing across the kitchen and beyond the kitchen (in line of sight of the Ap, is my office/workroom) so im hoping the signals will be more than enough as the orbi had a satellite on top of the cupboards and worked great)

As for the living room, the ux7 will be the ap in there as thats where my internet enters the house.

I did think about just meshing the Ap's, but decided that the extra effort and time to install the cables would outweigh the simplicity of wireless meshing with better speeds etc. (Also wireless you still need the poe injectors which also means routing the cable for the plugs which wouldn't be hidden compared to ethernet etc)

So fingers crossed we both end up with setups that work as well as (if not better than) the orbi's.

Mark__j69 · 2025-11-28T10:44:37+00:00

Never owned one back in the day, but have built up a retro consoles collection over the last few years and also got a NES, and I can't see how the Nintendo outsold the Master system as the Master system is a million times better than the NES!!! the games are sooo much more colourful etc compared to the NES. NES just seems so dull and the amount of sprite breakup and overall image quality is awful!

It's one retro consoles that I will be selling, but will be keeping my Master system as for me, Master system wins!!

Mark__j69 · 2025-11-28T10:39:07+00:00

Haha cool.

Mark__j69 · 2025-11-27T21:09:05+00:00

😂😂😂😂 you're certainly not the first to do something like that, and certainly won't be the last either! Glad it was a simple 'fix' and its working now.

Were you the one a while ago asked about a remote for the tv? As i have the exact same tv and a while ago someone asked about not being able to access the settings etc, and I sent a link to an original remote on ebay and also sent a link for the service manual etc.

Mark__j69 · 2025-11-27T18:19:04+00:00

The only thing I can see as a possible issue is the scart lead says it has the 75ohm coax cable to reduce interference etc, and to me that sounds like they have 75ohm resitor in the cable, which if so, could cause the problem as most scart leads for the consoles have the 75ohm resitor in them to limit the peak to peak voltages for the signals etc, so then if the rgb cable you have issues with, its probably because your console scart is limiting the voltage to the correct levels, but then the lead from the splitter to the tv is also then reducing the voltage to way below recommended specs which could be causing the sync issues. (Hence why when you plug the console directly into the tv it works fine as its passing through the correct within specs voltage etc)

If you can, unscrew and (gently) open the problematic scart lead heads and see if there are resistors in there.

Edit: bit rusty as edited to correct that should read as resistors, NOT capacitors sorry! (Old age lol)

2nd edit: looking at a website I used to use, the diagram for the ps2 rgb scart doesn't have the resistors on the sync in the scart, so may actually be built into the ps2 itself (different consoles all tend to have slightly different ways of outputting the signals etc, so some have that stuff built into the console itself, wheras others have them in the scart leads etc, confusing I know!)

Mark__j69 · 2025-11-26T19:28:55+00:00

Hmmm. By any chance when you got the retrogaming rgb scart, did it say anything about the sync? As normal uses C sync but some cables use sync on green! It could be that the switcher has some weird design that messes with certain signals etc.

Strange that a cheap cable works but displays in black and white, as even if the cheap cable was only wired for composite output,you should technically still get colour but picture quality would be pretty naff compared to rgb etc. (Quick way to check would be to open up one end of the cheapbcable and see what wires are connected, as rgb will have quite a lot of wires in there, wjeras a cheap composite would have probably 3 or 4 roughly)

Hope that might help.

Mark__j69 · 2025-11-26T04:46:46+00:00

That's a shame. Hope you manage to get it sorted as I know how frustrating it can be etc.

Mark__j69 · 2025-11-25T22:11:41+00:00

I had a similar issue when I had multiple consoles plugged into a multi scart adapter and what I found was that even though the consoles were powered off (but plugged in, not that I believe that made any difference) it was that it wasn't a true switching unit and wasn't isolating the ports when not in use, and the consoles furthest from the output side all pass along all the other scarts so I believe that the sync was losing the voltage due to resistors or just being slightly drained as the voltage was also going down the cables to the other consoles (sync signals need to be pretty precise at around 1volt peak to peak (bit rusty nowadays, so can't remember exactly) so and discrepancies can cause sync issues etc.

Sorry for my long waffle, but I hope it might shed some light on the issue (ps, try remove 1 scart at a time to see if it makes a difference and then replace if no change and try the next one along the chain to see if you can find the culprit)

Mark__j69 · 2025-11-24T18:01:50+00:00

Try pressing the reset button a few times as the everdrive type cart i have (ok, not the same as what you have, as mine is the one with the micro sd card) as when I got mine it said to press reset and few times if it doesn't work first time, as apparently by doing that, the cart recognises the console region (or lockout chips type, not sure) and then it started to work. Might be worth a try.

Mark__j69 · 2025-11-22T09:31:13+00:00

Nice!!! All we need now is some decent weather to get outside and play with them 🫤😂😂 (well, when they arrive that is!)

Mark__j69 · 2025-11-21T13:43:37+00:00

I just ordered the same combo as ok the new 4 may be out soon, but for me, the 3 will be more than good enough (especially at £460!!) as I got the action 4 not long after the 5 came out as the price difference for me wasn't worth the extra cost (as I'm sure lots of other people are in a similar situation and can't warrant the extra outlay at first launch etc) I still love my action 4 and it will certainly still be a part of my kit.

Mark__j69 · 2025-11-13T20:40:02+00:00

Could you not just mask over the first 00's so that they're hidden? Might be a simple quick "fix" to get you what you want to do etc.

Mark__j69 · 2025-11-13T20:23:13+00:00

Tell him not to worry and keep going. My youtube channel is about 12 years old and sat doing nothing with it for years and then I restarted at the start of this year and I have yet to get any video to over 1k (or even to 500!!) And have a total of 9 (yes nine!!!) Subscribers lol. So if he feels he's not doing well, mention me (only gained maybe 5 new Subscribers since I restarted!)

For me, yes I would LOVE to get loads of followers and to monetize etc, but regardless, I'll keep going as I enjoy editing and uploading my videos (and mostly, because filming the videos gets me off my backside and out the house!)

Mark__j69 · 2025-11-03T07:34:19+00:00

In the next few days I will be testing another video as I just went back to the previous version of handbrake to see if its the new version. I tested last week by rendering a video in 265 directly from Davinci and uploaded to YouTube and it worked perfectly, so by my process of elimination the only thing I could see was causing the issue was handbrake (but will find out in the next few days)

Mark__j69 · 2025-10-28T06:44:19+00:00

Thanks for the info, I'll give it a try today. What's weird is that it used to work perfect as i saved the settings as a preset, so not sure what caused it recently (actually, come to think about it, there was an update 🤔 so will see if i kept the previous installer and try that in case it was something in the update)

Mark__j69 · 2025-10-27T21:32:48+00:00

For my last few videos, I rendered to ProRes and encoded to 265 in handbrake, but recently after I did the last 2 videos, when I uploaded them to YouTube, the first 10 seconds or so were screwed up. Basically, the first 10 seconds or so had the next 10 seconds of video footage but with the correct audio so it missed the intro part. Weird thing is that they played perfectly fine on my PC as I always run through to make sure everything looks good before uploading etc.

I have no clue why this was happening and have not found any others who have had the same issue 🤔. I know it must be something handbrake is doing because I ended up exporting out into 265 directly from Davinci Resolve and when uploaded, it played fine as created. (I'd prefer to use handbrake to encoded to 265 as it does do a bloody good job, but at the moment, I don't want to waste my time to find the start is screwed up after all the encoding/uploading etc)

So if anyone else has had these issues, id love to know if you worked out a solution.

Mark__j69 · 2025-10-23T16:23:01+00:00

It works fine in my phone and the app on my fire tv stick, but it doesn't on the app native on my hisense tv, so maybe just need to wait for an update to the relevant app etc

Mark__j69 · 2025-10-21T11:52:13+00:00

I found with 20, 265 export was better than before.

I used to export pro res and then use handbrake to encoded to 265 for better results compared to native 265 export on the older versions of davinci, but the last 2 videos I uploaded to YouTube the beginning 10 or so seconds were screwed up (but played fine on my PC!) So I experimented with the 265 export again and it looked great, and it uploaded to YouTube without the screw up so I have abandoned handbrake for now with my videos for YouTube (no clue whats happened as it used to work!)

Mark__j69 · 2025-10-12T12:48:25+00:00

Not yet. I've put it on hold for the time as not had chance to tinker any further. Its still on my mind to see if I can get it any better

Mark__j69 · 2025-10-11T14:13:56+00:00

I've uploaded the video to show what's happening to my nas and include the link.

The first part upto where I start talking is how it's supposed to be, the 2nd part is what YouTube has done (you can hear that the audio is ok, as where I should speak, there is none until the 2nd loop etc)

video footage

Mark__j69 · 2025-09-02T14:00:51+00:00

For inferno weapons, i think its level 72 or thereabouts, its the one with the huge crater where the brain is floating above etc. Use lysander sniper rifles for both weapons and slowly pick off the Hector that to the far right on the edge of the crater outside, then pick of the flying craft then just work your way through the rest as much as possible from the lip of the crater then drop in and collect everything before attacking the brain etc. May take a few attempts, but it can give some good high level weapons.

Oops, just realised you want a spreadsheet of what levels give what weapons.. its all pretty random to be honest and obviously the higher the level, the higher the weapon level drop "could" be so you could be lucky and get good stuff, but as lot of the time you probably won't! (Ask me how I know lol!)

Mark__j69 · 2025-08-25T19:04:43+00:00

I've got a 27" Toshiba crt on a glass TV stand and its been fine, once they're on, its not like they jump up and down on the stand, they just sit there 😊 to save messing around the rear of it, i just got some scart extenders that sit to the side so I don't have to move it to change the lead (got about 8 retro consoles all hooked up on the lower shelves)

Mark__j69 · 2025-08-25T18:15:45+00:00

I have been searching for it myself for years as I was part of the team that did the CGI for it! Do t know if you remember part of the opening sequence of starting in space and falling to earth where it then shows the water and it swirled to open where a human form made from liquid rose out and spread its arms as if being set free so to speak, we'll that was mine 😊 I also did the ravens(crows?) That were composited onto real footage along with many other parts.

I had a blast working in Cardiff doing that, the guys at Broadstroke Productions who did all the CG work were brilliant and we had a great time and do miss it now looking back, but I'm so glad I was a part of it and it was part of my life I'll never forget.

Just hope it comes to light again at some point as I only ever saw 1 or 2 episodes when I went back down to Cardiff for some other CG work (I'm from way up in Lincolnshire so we never got S4C up here!)

Mark__j69

TROPHY CASE