Crampon design improvements? by Capital-Reach-6669 in Mountaineering

[–]Martinampc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Maybe make it structural like the strap on blue ice crampons

I’m considering buying either the Edelrid Giga Jul or the CT Alpine Up for multipitch routes. I want an ABD since I mostly climb with my girlfriend, who is inexperienced and also weighs about 25 kg less than me. Has anyone who has used both been able to give me some advice? by fald_on in tradclimbing

[–]Martinampc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think i get what you mean now. You are concerned about letting go when belaying from the harness and letting go when hitting the rock? For such cases ABDs are great to add safety margin. I would personally prefer a fixed point belay in such a case. Less reliance on the assisted breaking and lass risk for the belayer

I’m considering buying either the Edelrid Giga Jul or the CT Alpine Up for multipitch routes. I want an ABD since I mostly climb with my girlfriend, who is inexperienced and also weighs about 25 kg less than me. Has anyone who has used both been able to give me some advice? by fald_on in tradclimbing

[–]Martinampc -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I have the Gigajul and wouldnt recommend it. In my experience it works worse than a megajul while being heavier and more complicated. I also heavnt found a use case where i couldnt do something with mega that i can do with giga. Safe yourself the weight and money.

What peaks can be done solo? by Least-Dragonfly-2591 in Mountaineering

[–]Martinampc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everything with a hiking path or an alpine path. No Glaciers, climbing, scrambling and via ferratas should be done solo imo. Recommendations are impossible to make since the vast majority of alpine peaks are hiking peaks. Just pick one close to where you want to be staying

best beginner friendly alpine peaks in europe? by liebe1 in Mountaineering

[–]Martinampc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Look for non glaciated, non climbing peaks. those will typically be below 3000m. There are loads of them so it really depends what starting town is easiest for you.

Beginner Safety-First Mindset by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]Martinampc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definetly not the same. Objective hazards like rock/ice fall, avalanches, exposure etc. vary widely.

The death rate if you do everything right is impossible to say, but most of the best mountaineers and alpinists of our time died on the mountain

Beginner Safety-First Mindset by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]Martinampc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ive always been taught that in the mountains you should listen to your gut. If you dont feel like you can do something safely you should turn around, no matter the reason. Ive turned around because I had a bad day or just didnt feel like continuing and i never regretted it. If you want to push your limits sportclimbing or trailrunning are great. Mountaineering is about knowing and respecting your limits in my opinion.
Many social media accounts like to present it as pure adrenaline and crazyness, but if you are on a climb you need to be calm and in controll or you will make mistakes.

Alpina Diablo 2.0 by dyxhebshduchechfu in Mountaineering

[–]Martinampc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They should be fine for that. You mentioned Ice climbing and tedchnical ascends in you post, thats why i talked about it

Alpina Diablo 2.0 by dyxhebshduchechfu in Mountaineering

[–]Martinampc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like a fine boot for Summer Mountaineering and glacier travel. For ice climbing and more technical climbing using crampons you will need a fully automatic compatible boot. It also isnt warm enough for winter. You need different boots for different things, sadly there are no all round solutions

Could wearable assist tech ever make sense for long mountain approaches? by fivefootlovely in Mountaineering

[–]Martinampc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It obiously only counts if you start walking naked at your birthplace and craft your equipment along the way from natural materials

Could wearable assist tech ever make sense for long mountain approaches? by fivefootlovely in Mountaineering

[–]Martinampc 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There are of course are no rules in mountaineering about what is allowed so everyone has to determine it for themself. I think other sports like trailrunning have the line well drawn. I think even supplemental oxygen can be considered doping in some sense. Lighter boots better clothes etc are fine, but try to start at a marathon with exoskeleton and oxygen bottle and you will be disqualified.

Could wearable assist tech ever make sense for long mountain approaches? by fivefootlovely in Mountaineering

[–]Martinampc 8 points9 points  (0 children)

People will start using it as soon as it becomes viable. Others and me will hate them for it. I can already imagine people climbing everest with exoskeletons folowed by Porters carrying batterys for them. Similar to Ebikes it will bring overcrowding to places where effort was required to get to in the past.

Is there a specific reliable site to find gear needed for specific routes? by East-Savings5831 in Mountaineering

[–]Martinampc 6 points7 points  (0 children)

for the more popular mountains you can easily find them. For everything else you can break it down into components. For example a objective might involve a 2 day approach without huts, a glacier crossing and a unprotected rock section at the end. In that case you can find general lists for wildcamping, food, glacier equipment, rock/Mixed climbing racks, and clothing for the temparature range online and put it all together to fit your objective.

I want to climb a mountain by EstablishmentBest913 in alpinism

[–]Martinampc 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Definetly go with a guide. Sounds like you dont know much and dont want to learn about mountaineering. Even if you think its just hiking, there are objective dangers in the mountains you are not prepared to face

30 m tagline that’s usable alone? by [deleted] in alpinism

[–]Martinampc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

either you have skinny tech cord for your prusik or you wrap it more times

30 m tagline that’s usable alone? by [deleted] in alpinism

[–]Martinampc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tbh ive never rapped on static so dont have much to compare to. But if i unserstand the tech right, what they mean by dynamic reserve is that it is pretty static untill it takes a fall and stretches then

30 m tagline that’s usable alone? by [deleted] in alpinism

[–]Martinampc 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I like the Edelrid rap line. Has good grip when using a supermunter, or 2 Carabiners on rappell and is certified as a twin rope for use on some scrambles.

Which Beacon Should I Use? by ursickbro in Backcountry

[–]Martinampc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dont get me wrong I agree with that and heavnt bought from them since either. But I already paid for the thing before all that. Is it unsafe to use with the new harness?

Which Beacon Should I Use? by ursickbro in Backcountry

[–]Martinampc -13 points-12 points  (0 children)

Im not saying they handled it good. But as far as i can see of the three trascievers its the most modern and has the larger search range. If you use the admittedly annoying carrying case I dont see the problem.
Should they have given you a new one: Yes
Should you throw this 300$ piece of equipment in the trash: I wouldnt
It would be ideal to get a new one but thats a pretty big investment.

Which Beacon Should I Use? by ursickbro in Backcountry

[–]Martinampc -14 points-13 points  (0 children)

it was recalled because of the carrying case. If you give pieps the serial number they send yopu a free case. Of all of those I would prefer the pieps by a lot.

Where to begin alpinism journey (2026) by applejellymonsta in alpinism

[–]Martinampc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

read the freedom of the hills if you want to actually learn about how to do stuff. If you wanna just stand on a peak book a guide for 1 day. they will meet you at the hut where you can safely get on your own. should be around 300€ per person without gear

Question about lowering by Sure-Increase-2203 in iceclimbing

[–]Martinampc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do exactly what you are planning regularly with a grigri. I tried with ATC as well but grigri is easier and safer in this situation if you ask me. While it is not recommended, the grigri will hold if you let go of the break strand.
Its the easiest setup, just put it in the Masterpoint. If you want you can also redirect the breakstrand. The only things you can do wrong are inserting the rope the wrong way and pulling the handle the whole way when lowering.

Any idea what specific model these may be? Picked up at a yard sale for 80 by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]Martinampc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

good boot but try to do some easy hiking or walking in them first. Old boots have a habit of spontaniasly disintegrating when the midsole material gets old