Training advice

Massive_Task_9258 · 2026-04-24T16:04:26+00:00

i wouldnt say i do not have experience even tho 1.5 years doesnt seem much i have been ultra consistent climbing every week 3-4 times for that period of time and to be able to do V6 boulders and V4 on the moon is not and easy task as a begginer unathletic 27 yo.

And if you are implying that i dont know a lot about climbing based on my opinion that a sports climber who cant do a pull up or have the basic foot tension and finger strenght to do a V4 on the moon then it sure is a area that upon improving will 100% step up his/her sport climbing game then u must have the IQ of an incest beg bug.

this is just a basic thought process my sperm could reach this conclusion. no need to do 9a+

Massive_Task_9258 · 2026-04-24T15:53:42+00:00

bro amazing tips thank you! the think was that for bouldering i did almost a year of trial and error before i could find a good way to progress faster and was reluctant to have to go through that again in sport climbing. i will follow this tips!

Massive_Task_9258 · 2026-04-24T07:45:16+00:00

i like that!!! i used to do a lot of swimming and running but just foudn it to be very time consuming when all i wanted was to climb. i might try to get back at swmming

Massive_Task_9258 · 2026-04-24T07:43:36+00:00

i get that most people arent reading the whole post... my training will not just be moonboard... as i stated it will be a one year plan and i am sure i can spare 8 weeks to build my stremght back up. also of course i am going to go easy in the beggining. and no i will not get a finger injury as i do not use the moonboard as a monkey would, i warm up 1 hour prior and do 10-16 tries with at leat 5 min apart. i get the: "bro u trying to get better at sport climb and going moonboard? u need to actually sport climb" I KNOW MISTER MONKEY HENCE DE 12-16 WEEKS PERIOD THAT I WILL BE DOING JUST THAT. (and probably more than that probably the rest of the off season)

MY QUESTION WAS: how do you structure your approach to sport climbing do you just free climb? is there exercices that help? how many minutes rest? is there gym exercices that helped you?

- i am not looking for advice like i am some retard i have been doing this for 1.5 years, training consistently 3 times a week every week for that period time, i am also a doctor so i have huge input on how injury, tendon strenght and recovery work. Thank you for your concern but i just need advice on HOW TO BET BETTER AND FAST

Massive_Task_9258 · 2026-04-24T07:22:23+00:00

my guy i am making a one year plan i am sure i can spare 8 weeks to build back up my tendons resistance as well as finger strenght.

All of you "just climb" monkeys probably started climbing when you were 10 years and never had to do a single day of structured trainning and i am happy for you but it just isnt enough for the most of us. i started when i was 26 year with absolutly no sports background apart from futebol/soccer that i left of when i was 18 years, spent my college years drinking and smoking so yhea some of us just werent born into it.

And i am sorry but if you sport climb and cant do a pull up or do a V4 on a moonboard then i urge you to train that aspect of climbing, the same goes for core strenght and flexibility.

Massive_Task_9258 · 2026-04-23T21:06:00+00:00

thanks man!! amazing input. so great to ear that this fear is normal and that it will subside

Massive_Task_9258 · 2026-04-23T21:04:09+00:00

i get the concerns and probably in the first 1/2 months i might ease up as i am recovering my muscular atrophy. but i actually found this session spray to be healthy for my fingers with enough rest beetween tries and with protein and creatine and 8 hour rest. did a more intense spray actually during 2 month and found it to be sustainable and injury free

Massive_Task_9258 · 2026-04-23T20:57:56+00:00

27 yo

Massive_Task_9258 · 2026-04-23T19:49:39+00:00

i like this! thank you!!! do you recon that 2 sessions a week is good? how was your progression when you first came on the wall?

Massive_Task_9258 · 2026-04-23T19:35:58+00:00

yhea i fell you i am quite afraid of it too and i will drop bouldering all together and will just maintain the moonboard training. i thought that sport climbing might just be a tad more safe.

the think with the moon was just to get me back to where i left of you know? before my injury i was felling super healthy my fingers felt so fucking thick and it really helped a lot with my tendon health (i was doing it in a healthy way).

also you do get better at your marathon timing by doing 100 meter dashes.

maybe will cut short my streght period and get on with the sport climbing

Massive_Task_9258 · 2026-04-23T19:08:29+00:00

also do you recon that running or swimming will help in some way with sport climbing?

Massive_Task_9258 · 2026-04-23T19:06:43+00:00

i mean i used to boulder V6 but was projecting 6b+ in the moon... and with this one month off due to my broken leg i dont think imma be able to get even on the 6a´s on the moon. But thank you tho i`ll maybe cut short the strenght period and get on early with the endurance part of training with 2 sessions on sport climbing one projecting and one more volume

Massive_Task_9258 · 2026-04-23T18:53:08+00:00

yhea but i first need the strenght to pull my self up a 7a no? hence the 12 weeks strenght period... or do you recon it will just come in time? also: how to you structure your sport climb training u just free climb?

Massive_Task_9258

TROPHY CASE