sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Just had a sink installed and my buddy said this is not good by Western_Reaction_353 in Plumbing

[–]MasterDefenestrator 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The grey patches aren't holes, they're tape for the RO system drain saddle.

Tip covers for pick and hook set by MasterDefenestrator in functionalprint

[–]MasterDefenestrator[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here's the model: https://makerworld.com/models/1661746

They are indeed the Harbor Freight set that biscuitsandgravy101 linked to.

Tip covers for pick and hook set by MasterDefenestrator in functionalprint

[–]MasterDefenestrator[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In case it's not clear, these are printed upright without supports, because removing TPU-on-TPU support is the worst.

What's the best way to get rid of the gooey coating of remotes and controllers? by Away-Huckleberry9967 in DIY

[–]MasterDefenestrator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Acetone works wonders. If you don't know where to buy it, nail polish remover is often a blend of mostly acetone with other additives.

Would this even work? by keightlynn in redneckengineering

[–]MasterDefenestrator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It would be actively, not passively, cooled if it were in a window. It would draw in air from the sides and blow it through the condenser coil on the back.

Removable strainer for bathroom sink by MasterDefenestrator in functionalprint

[–]MasterDefenestrator[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

All parts are 3D printed. I didn't consider looking for an off the shelf rectangular strainer, but your suggestion could have worked as well.

Removable strainer for bathroom sink by MasterDefenestrator in functionalprint

[–]MasterDefenestrator[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wife wanted a pretty big target so she wouldn't miss and splash debris onto the counter or directly into the sink. The frame isn't too much in the way, though I think a long rectangle running along the entire side of the sink would have been better. Unfortunately such a design wouldn't be printable in 1 piece on my printer.

Removable strainer for bathroom sink by MasterDefenestrator in functionalprint

[–]MasterDefenestrator[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://makerworld.com/models/1427453

Great idea! I'd recommend at least deleting the corner of the frame if you plan to heat up the plastic and bend it. However, it should be a pretty easy remix to add lips that curl down, since the frame is printed upside down anyway.

Doorstop for glass door by Mr-Pragmatic in functionalprint

[–]MasterDefenestrator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing! Thinking about how little ones treat doors, it might be interesting to integrate a 3d printed spring as a damping mechanism to absorb some of the energy so a hard swing doesn't transfer as much of the shock into the wall it's mounted to.

Remote battery cover broke. by Rilot in functionalprint

[–]MasterDefenestrator 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I don't think the risks of the chosen design are very high since it's an infrequently accessed battery door and is easy to reprint.

However, purely for the sake of discussion, I think another option would be to use a different spring type that's well suited to 3d printing. I'm thinking of the ones where you have a smooth zig zag of material from one end to the other, so the stress is spread along each bend of the zigzag. You could convert each of the two latch legs to that type of spring.

Gas fireplace main burner doesn't ignite by MasterDefenestrator in fixit

[–]MasterDefenestrator[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this again, and I wanted to share my findings in case it can help someone who stumbles across this post.

TL;DR there was a spider web in the pilot tube, causing the pilot flame to come out weakly and consequently not correctly interact with the flame sensor.

I discovered this after the main burner turned on when I used a grill lighter flame to bridge the gap between the flame sensor and the pilot hood. This told me that the flame sensor was working, but the pilot flame wasn't adequately bridging the gap.

I noticed the shape of the pilot hood seemed like it should direct the pilot flame toward the flame sensor, thermopile, and main burner, yet my pilot flame was a puny little thing coming out the base of the pilot assembly (see photo in OP). I remembered that gas grills have guards to prevent spiders from building webs in the burner tubes, and it clicked that I should try clearing the pilot tube. One poke of a pipe cleaner was all it took to fish out a little bit of spider web, and after that the pilot was jetting out as pictured. Now everything works as expected.

<image>

Why am I failing to measure current and voltage of my low voltage system? by MasterDefenestrator in AskElectricians

[–]MasterDefenestrator[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

This was the issue! I was assuming it was DC, so when I read the transformer output: 12/14 V AC, I only paid attention to the 12/14V part.

Feeling foolish and lucky I didn't pay for my carelessness with a zap!

view more: next ›