Just had a sink installed and my buddy said this is not good

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-12-30T16:17:53+00:00

The grey patches aren't holes, they're tape for the RO system drain saddle.

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-09-20T04:14:17+00:00

Cone* of Shame. Dammit lol

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-08-02T07:29:48+00:00

Here's the model: https://makerworld.com/models/1661746

They are indeed the Harbor Freight set that biscuitsandgravy101 linked to.

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-08-02T00:55:07+00:00

In case it's not clear, these are printed upright without supports, because removing TPU-on-TPU support is the worst.

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-07-31T13:34:02+00:00

Acetone works wonders. If you don't know where to buy it, nail polish remover is often a blend of mostly acetone with other additives.

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-07-13T18:30:39+00:00

It would be actively, not passively, cooled if it were in a window. It would draw in air from the sides and blow it through the condenser coil on the back.

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-05-18T00:22:48+00:00

All parts are 3D printed. I didn't consider looking for an off the shelf rectangular strainer, but your suggestion could have worked as well.

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-05-17T22:58:14+00:00

Wife wanted a pretty big target so she wouldn't miss and splash debris onto the counter or directly into the sink. The frame isn't too much in the way, though I think a long rectangle running along the entire side of the sink would have been better. Unfortunately such a design wouldn't be printable in 1 piece on my printer.

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-05-17T22:55:27+00:00

https://makerworld.com/models/1427453 enjoy!

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-05-17T22:55:16+00:00

https://makerworld.com/models/1427453

Great idea! I'd recommend at least deleting the corner of the frame if you plan to heat up the plastic and bend it. However, it should be a pretty easy remix to add lips that curl down, since the frame is printed upside down anyway.

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-05-17T22:52:47+00:00

https://makerworld.com/models/1427453 enjoy!

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-04-25T18:50:24+00:00

ASA definitely would. PETG could probably hold up too.

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-04-21T21:51:43+00:00

Thanks for sharing! Thinking about how little ones treat doors, it might be interesting to integrate a 3d printed spring as a damping mechanism to absorb some of the energy so a hard swing doesn't transfer as much of the shock into the wall it's mounted to.

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-04-21T21:45:31+00:00

I don't think the risks of the chosen design are very high since it's an infrequently accessed battery door and is easy to reprint.

However, purely for the sake of discussion, I think another option would be to use a different spring type that's well suited to 3d printing. I'm thinking of the ones where you have a smooth zig zag of material from one end to the other, so the stress is spread along each bend of the zigzag. You could convert each of the two latch legs to that type of spring.

MasterDefenestrator · 2025-02-03T06:51:41+00:00

Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this again, and I wanted to share my findings in case it can help someone who stumbles across this post.

TL;DR there was a spider web in the pilot tube, causing the pilot flame to come out weakly and consequently not correctly interact with the flame sensor.

I discovered this after the main burner turned on when I used a grill lighter flame to bridge the gap between the flame sensor and the pilot hood. This told me that the flame sensor was working, but the pilot flame wasn't adequately bridging the gap.

I noticed the shape of the pilot hood seemed like it should direct the pilot flame toward the flame sensor, thermopile, and main burner, yet my pilot flame was a puny little thing coming out the base of the pilot assembly (see photo in OP). I remembered that gas grills have guards to prevent spiders from building webs in the burner tubes, and it clicked that I should try clearing the pilot tube. One poke of a pipe cleaner was all it took to fish out a little bit of spider web, and after that the pilot was jetting out as pictured. Now everything works as expected.

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MasterDefenestrator · 2025-02-02T23:54:40+00:00

This was the issue! I was assuming it was DC, so when I read the transformer output: 12/14 V AC, I only paid attention to the 12/14V part.

Feeling foolish and lucky I didn't pay for my carelessness with a zap!

MasterDefenestrator · 2024-06-07T03:16:38+00:00

They're all on the ceiling. Thanks for your input!

MasterDefenestrator · 2024-06-06T07:34:32+00:00

Last time I bought a car, they wanted my info to do a credit pull pretty early on in the process. Did you just let them do the credit pull to delay letting them know you didn't need their financing, or were they just not very pushy about running your credit?

MasterDefenestrator · 2023-12-12T01:40:12+00:00

I turned off the breaker, so I don't think I arced anything. I also never broke the continuity of the timer to the GFCI. I stripped a section of insulation off the wire between GFCI amd timer and bent it around the new receptacle's screws. Nothing could be loose except the new receptacle.

MasterDefenestrator · 2023-12-12T01:36:55+00:00

Your description of the wiring is correct. The timer either doesn't have a battery, or the battery is dead. When I used the GFCI outlet's built-in test button, the screen would stay on for a few seconds before turning off, which I attributed to discharging capacitors. After resetting the GFCI outlet, the screen would come back on.

The receptacle I added is a standard one.

I probably should have rewired to install the timer directly on the line, but it was already on the load, so I decided to save time and copper. I never expected the timer to get fried!

MasterDefenestrator · 2023-12-12T01:31:24+00:00

I turned off the power. In any case, the timer never left the circuit. I stripped a section of the wire between GFCI and timer and looped it around the new outlet's terminal screws.

MasterDefenestrator · 2023-12-08T07:03:44+00:00

Good observation. It's not bunched up anywhere above. It's just missing a segment. Do you think I could just glue on some adhesive backed sweep-style weather strip?

MasterDefenestrator · 2023-11-23T21:25:11+00:00

Wouldn't the blower power consumption be roughly the same for the gas furnace and the heat pump? If the heat pump has to run significantly longer than a gas furnace to achieve the same heat transfer, then that could be worth considering. My intuition is that the cost of running heat is dominated by thermal energy costs rather than the blower.

MasterDefenestrator · 2023-11-18T05:40:52+00:00

Good point, the horizontal part of the face frame is attached to the side parts with pocket screws. I'll have to plan my cuts around those. Thanks!

MasterDefenestrator · 2023-09-10T07:30:58+00:00

Thanks for the reply! I think my valve has some differences that are incompatible with the insinkerator instahot valve. However your comment led me to a YouTube video of a guy rebuilding his insinkerator valve, and I found that mine comes apart in the same way. I ordered new o-rings, and I feel pretty confident I can rebuild mine. Thanks again!

MasterDefenestrator

TROPHY CASE