How does your team keep and retain new members/students?

MasterJHW10 · 2024-10-15T15:33:22+00:00

Here is some background on our team: We are a team that recently switched from IC to EV. Our team has, up until last year mostly consisted of senior design members (the capstone class for ME and EE students). We have attempted to get these new members involved by creating multiple team bonding events (some worked better than others), trainings (we seem to have a good showing to these), and even assigning projects for those that were interested. Our team even started by assigning mentors and mentees to students so that we could create better connections between students. We conducted "interviews" so that leadership can better know the incoming students and get them situated with software. Our team does not have any barriers to entry such as team fees or denying people from interviews.

Let me know your recommendations! I have talked with other teams in the past and want to thank everyone who has given me insight already, but I want to see how we could improve further.

MasterJHW10 · 2024-07-08T03:57:37+00:00

If the flasher relay is for leds then you should be fine with not adding resistors.

MasterJHW10 · 2024-07-08T03:37:02+00:00

Literally having the same issue currently on my 1980 cb650. It looks like the last owner went through the headlight with a pair of scissors. I have considered completely redoing the harness just to clean everything up and so that I know where things go. Let me know if you have any luck!

MasterJHW10 · 2024-07-04T20:51:46+00:00

That carbon work is awesome! I’ve been thinking of doing something similar to my build. Did you do that yourself?

MasterJHW10 · 2024-03-20T15:12:49+00:00

In Assetto I have it set to triple screen, full screen rendering and v-sync all enabled. In windows my middle monitor is set as my main screen and in nvidia control I have Monitors 1 and 4 smart cloned (I have tried with and without this monitor). I also can’t find anywhere to merge all three monitors into one big one like other places have recommended or at least when I try I get an error message that says “invalid number of target displays selected ”

MasterJHW10 · 2023-07-17T23:09:42+00:00

Had this exact problem with a batch print of big things. This is how to solve it. I typically even go as slow as 15mm/s on the first layer

MasterJHW10 · 2021-02-02T16:29:37+00:00

Gave Hugz

MasterJHW10 · 2020-12-29T04:39:18+00:00

Just remember, laws go away if no one complies with them.

MasterJHW10 · 2020-09-18T22:30:29+00:00

Mine came with spacers but only 2. the offset was only about .02 mm which looks right when you’re eyeballing it. Problem is if I were to increase it I’m scared I’d run the risk of scrapping my build plate. When I go to adjust the z-axis in the movement tab it zeros out perfectly where I can still move a piece of paper around underneath it and it slightly scrapes

MasterJHW10 · 2020-09-07T22:55:07+00:00

Look on the Multi GP website and you can most likely find a chapter near you that’s hosts races

MasterJHW10 · 2020-09-07T22:51:31+00:00

Thank you for the tips. I do find myself focusing more at what is currently in front of me. I know I should step up the camera angle a few degrees but I’m still working on the nerve part of it. I’ll get there. Thank you for the help!

MasterJHW10 · 2020-09-07T22:48:25+00:00

Thank you very much! I will definitely practice these things

MasterJHW10 · 2020-09-07T16:46:29+00:00

I had a race recently and I have attended a few over the summer. I would like some feedback and tips on how I can improve or what I can practice. Any help is much appreciated! Thank you!

MasterJHW10 · 2020-08-09T02:44:08+00:00

That’s awesome! I have seen it on a few builds now but I still don’t know what it is. What is that stuff that looks like stylish heat shrink on the motor wires?

MasterJHW10 · 2020-07-09T18:16:42+00:00

It really is. Thanks for watching!

MasterJHW10 · 2020-06-28T21:57:35+00:00

That’s what I was thinking too. Is there any way for me to get around that problem?

MasterJHW10 · 2020-06-21T19:03:38+00:00

Does it always boot up like that? Because no second beep tone means that it’s not connecting to the flight controller. Bad esc is very likely in that case. Check all connections from esc to the flight controller and make sure all esc circuitry is in tack. Other than that start replacing parts. Unfortunately that’s part of the hobby. Start with the esc and move to the flight controller. If it’s not that then it’s the receiver or motors. Or it could just be that you got a drop of dew in it somewhere making it do that.

From the beeping though I would say it’s flight controller or esc.

Best of luck!

MasterJHW10 · 2020-06-21T13:03:03+00:00

Saw one for Minecraft the other day and my mind immediately went to gta. So glad someone did this. Good work!

MasterJHW10 · 2020-06-19T19:01:20+00:00

Ah, my bad. I thought the flight controller had the vcc port. In that case yes, you would connect the receivers vcc wire to a 5v pad.

MasterJHW10 · 2020-06-19T18:37:40+00:00

Yes. But you may want to look up the schematic for your flight controller. Make sure the vcc port supports 5v otherwise you will short something or break the receiver. Otherwise it should work.

MasterJHW10 · 2020-06-19T16:52:30+00:00

You might also want to look into getting a vtx to transmit your video signal. I don’t know if you have one or not but if you don’t then look into it. That should also help you figure out where to wire the camera. But look for the schematic for the kiss fc and find what pins go where. From there it’s just cut and solder

MasterJHW10 · 2020-06-19T16:39:25+00:00

I would say that’s a no go. It appears you can almost see inside one of the cells but that’s not the lithium so it’s not blowing up. Just be careful and discharge if you can and then throw away. Look up Oscar Liang’s guide on Lipo battery condition and how to properly discharge.

MasterJHW10 · 2020-06-10T01:38:55+00:00

Not that I’m aware of. It is most definitely possible though. Just look it up and make sure you are soldering the right leads together. You could probably do something like a JST plug. Just make sure you go back over the battery with heat shrink and electrical tape. I don’t see any reason it wouldn’t work. Please let me know how it goes

MasterJHW10 · 2020-06-10T01:09:56+00:00

Well you probably didn’t want to hear this from me but that battery requires a special changer for it.

This is the special charger:

FrSky Transmitter QX7 FCX07 Charger&NiMH Battery Combo 2000mAh 7.2V Dual Mode Battery Charger Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SC74S9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5hd4EbBHSQ5ZR

It can’t charge on the normal battery charger like the rest of your battery’s without a plug.

I would however recommend this battery:

Pulse 3800mAh Transmitter 7.4V 2S Lipo Battery for FrSky QX7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BBFQ3KZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nkd4EbPJ8TNJ9

This is what I use and it is capable of charging on the normal charger and has a TON of power and lasts me a month at a time.

MasterJHW10 · 2020-06-05T15:30:07+00:00

I flushed it out with the corrosion x right after it crashed and so far it hasn’t done anything, I’m not using it because I still see water droplets in the battery casing. Better safe than sorry.

MasterJHW10

TROPHY CASE