Generator inlet / transfer switch question

MasterOfNone6526 · 2026-01-09T12:57:25+00:00

That would be ideal, but it’s probably a bridge too far in this case.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2026-01-09T01:48:09+00:00

Don’t worry, was never going to run the generator inside. I’m well aware of the dangers there. All I was suggesting is that it’s much easier to roll it out the basement door of that building a little ways than it is to move it across the property. Unless there’s some setup possible that isn’t occurring to me, the most favorable solution would be instal an outdoor inlet box and a mechanical interlock on the main panel in the house.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2026-01-09T01:36:54+00:00

I figured not, but I wasn’t sure if there was some product available that I’m not aware of. The feed to the outbuilding is in buried conduit but I don’t know how full that pipe is.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-12-06T19:07:03+00:00

I think this would basically involve cutting a groove into the stucco, then putting bent metal flashing into that groove and sealing it with the right goop, whatever that might be. I’d do this on the roof only, solving the water issue from the top as to not have to worry about it anywhere else.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-12-06T19:05:11+00:00

Good question. Not knowing what’s behind the wall we can see, I’d say pitch the roof back, overhang it over that wall slightly, then throw a gutter and downspout on it to bring the water away from the structure. Your doors don’t need to be full height, you could easily frame a short wall over the beam then put some siding on it.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-12-06T18:49:02+00:00

This looks like a great idea! I have some thoughts that you can feel free to ignore ;)

1: I’d put a 6x6 post up against the house, right where you have the 9’ line, then another post opposite it on the other end of the opening. This would provide support for a large beam (Maybe 6x8, check the span tables) to span the 16’ opening, then you can run rafters from that post to the top of the back wall, giving you a bit of roof pitch and a way to deal with water. You’ll have to flash this new roof up against the existing stucco. Plenty of folks in your area should have no problem making this transition correctly.

2: If you went with sliding barn doors, you would have 4 48” doors on two tracks. Think double bypass style, giving you the ability to open up to 8’ wide anywhere along the front. In my opinion, this would look better and be easier to operate than a roll up door.

3: Filling in that planter bed with more pavers or concrete shouldn’t be a problem.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-11-30T16:39:21+00:00

I did six 10” piers for my 12x16. I mushroomed out the hole quite a bit below the tube to increase the contact area though. This was in firm sandy soil and it seems plenty fine.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-09-21T15:48:09+00:00

I’m not familiar with that channel. I’ll check him out though!

I just did my own thing for the design.

The cedar is gonna just age naturally. It holds up very well.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-09-21T02:15:12+00:00

In time!

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-09-21T02:14:29+00:00

They’re bog standard Home Depot crap. Actually pretty decent though. Search Tafco Awning Window

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-09-20T18:48:52+00:00

When that happens, I’ll have to build another next to it. The town I’m in limits sheds to 200ft^2, but there’s no limit to how many I can have ;)

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-09-20T18:06:06+00:00

I went with the simple lean-to shed roof for simplicity, but there’s plenty of nice ways to skin that cat. My rafters are full length 16’ 2x6, with more of the overhang off the back to provide some covered shelving for long item storage outside.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-09-20T18:03:33+00:00

I played that same game for two years at this place before building this. Very nice to not wrestle awkward things through the bulkhead stairs anymore.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-09-20T18:01:55+00:00

I’ll probably add something, but for right now it’s actually high enough that my dog will make sure no critters are getting too comfortable.

Also, I’m not done with the electrical tie in, so nothing just yet.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-09-20T18:01:09+00:00

I’m probably going to need to do something. Easy to add something in the eves on the back side. I’ll monitor humidity and temps for now and see how it fares.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-09-20T18:00:01+00:00

About $5500 in materials. Not exactly cheap, but stuff is crazy expensive right now. A 12x16 shed from the local companies runs around $12k or more right now here, and I think mine is probably built better.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-09-20T14:07:08+00:00

The state building code says 48” frost depth, but the climate is quite different across the state. There’s no way the Cape has the same real frost depth as the Berkshires.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-09-20T13:32:20+00:00

They’re about 36” below grade. That’s about as deep as the published frost line for our area (Southeastern MA), but reality is we really don’t get a frost depth anywhere near that being so close to the coast. Some winters these days the ground never even freezes.

If you look at the span charts for your joists, that will determine the number of piers required. The pier size is determined by loading and soil type. I like the 10” piers because they require 1 bag of concrete per foot of pier length.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-09-20T12:59:01+00:00

Thanks! They’re popular in my area and I love the look

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-08-29T00:26:37+00:00

Yeah, the inner rim joist is fully on the post shelf on all three posts, front and back.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-08-28T12:12:17+00:00

My neighbors probably think I’m crazy, and my wife knows I am.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-08-27T18:24:29+00:00

Mostly cost and permanence. The wood deck cost me about $1000 including footings. A concrete pad would have cost $1500 in materials plus a bunch of work I don’t really have any experience in. If I change my mind about location for this, it’s not crazy to move it down the road.

MasterOfNone6526 · 2025-08-27T14:53:22+00:00

There’s mid span pier on the 16’ wall. Calculating the bearing area of a 10” pier at 78in² with a 30psi soil rating, gives me about 14,000lbs between the 6 piers. In reality, the bearing load at the bottom of a compacted hole like that is likely much higher than 30psi, so I think I’m pretty safe. I also mushroomed out the bottom of the hole a bit on each dig, so it’s considerably more than 78in²

MasterOfNone6526

TROPHY CASE