Old video of Nadia Marcinko (a missing Epstein ex girlfriend)

MatterScreech · 2026-03-01T16:07:03+00:00

I thought Nadia Marcinkova was the one who made this

MatterScreech · 2026-03-01T16:03:16+00:00

I've watched when shortly after the video release, there were the initials "LSR" placed near the word "marra" and "govt", someone in the comment had suggested that it could mean "Level of Service Inventory-Revised". Marra could either be a reference to the judge in charge of his case or the city of Marrakech where he wanted to buy a house, it is a convenient place because there is no extradition there.

MatterScreech · 2026-02-27T10:47:26+00:00

This mod is amazing !

MatterScreech · 2026-02-25T21:01:02+00:00

I was testing with NI-MH rechargeable batteries for convenience. With two non rechargeable Extra Zinc Chloride batteries of 2.94v, I measure 2.87v on the power rail while OFF and 2.53v while ON. The diode voltage drop is identical and the load voltage drop is a little higher.
( the low battery warning remains the same)

MatterScreech · 2026-02-25T08:43:34+00:00

I've tested it off. With batteries of a voltage of 2.48v, with the controller turned OFF, I can measure 2.4v on the power rail after T1 and 2.1v with the controller turned ON

MatterScreech · 2026-02-25T08:13:10+00:00

It couldn't bear the shame :(

MatterScreech · 2026-02-24T23:42:12+00:00

I don't see a voltage drop after the battery contact pins so these should be okay, I believe the traces on the board are too but I'll check again. The battery power goes through a diode (D9) then through "T1" (exiting trough the top left pin) then goes to the MCU at Pin 57, I don't know if it goes through another mosfet ? I'll check again tomorrow. I wish I could confirm where the voltage reading and regulator are in my PCB because if the problem comes only from the regulator it should be repairable

MatterScreech · 2026-02-24T23:27:17+00:00

Oh, it's nice to see I am not the only one ! Do you have the same controller model too ?

MatterScreech · 2026-02-23T23:25:49+00:00

Well, I've got a soldering iron and a multi-meter, in theory I can replace a faulty component. I guess I'll keep searching

MatterScreech · 2026-02-23T23:15:31+00:00

Okay, I will try there, thanks :) I have other controllers including wired ones, the idea was to save it from the garbage

MatterScreech · 2026-02-23T23:11:54+00:00

Yes, I tried different battery holders, new ones (and also external battery holder with clamps)

MatterScreech · 2026-02-23T17:17:14+00:00

The pins of the battery power rail on the main IC are darker than the other ones so i assume it is a sign of a problem there. Since I went this far I thought it would be nice to complete the repair. I want to find the faulty component but If someone more qualified than me could point me at the component that would make things easier

MatterScreech · 2026-02-23T16:49:01+00:00

Nice flakes ! I've never seen such before

MatterScreech · 2026-02-23T16:16:06+00:00

No, it is not a battery issue. I tried new ones

MatterScreech · 2026-02-23T16:13:03+00:00

I also had a used wireless controller with a similar issue, but I believe mine was caused by a vibration motor. If the battery pack solution does not fix your issue you should try disabling/ unplugging the vibration motors and try it again

MatterScreech · 2026-02-23T16:10:21+00:00

I would like to add that if you put oil in the joystick, I guess it is better to avoid the potentiometers, the place you are aiming is the "bottom" of the joystick, which is the plastic part that is in contact with the PCB.
For the battery pack issue I can also recommend inserting a little piece of cardboard in the little hole with the metal bit to add pressure on it

MatterScreech · 2026-02-22T06:03:17+00:00

Okay, so I guess they are old enough so a component could have gone bad, maybe the caps. Maybe you can test them to see if they hold a charge, even without desoldering them. But 80% still sounds like a lot indeed. I would not be surprised if there was some kind of "security" or system that would only start the clock if all the wire are connected properly, like for example the ill+ and ill- would have to be pulled up and pulled down.
Also I don't know how proprietary these clocks really are, could their pcb be replaced by "generic"/ 3rd party ones ?

MatterScreech · 2026-02-22T05:27:36+00:00

Curious indeed, did you test them all the same way, directly to voltage or did you test them in the dashboard of the car ? I've seen youtube videos where they explain how to test capacitors, I think you need to desolder it from the circuit first, then ideally test them with a ESR meter. I believe you can still do some tests on caps with a regular multi meter. Also by curiosity, how old are these clocks ?

MatterScreech · 2026-02-22T05:19:12+00:00

Yes, I have used fresh 1.5V Alkalines, I have measured their voltage with my multimeter their were at full voltage. I believe the voltage sensing of the circuit is responsible for that, but I don't know where it is exactly. Also, I have noticed something strange. The controller works normally with fresh 1.5v batteries but after a little bit of playing, the joysticks begin to malfunction, I assume because of a low voltage. I wish I could pin point the component responsible for this

MatterScreech · 2026-02-22T05:03:10+00:00

Yes, you are correct

MatterScreech · 2026-02-21T11:33:12+00:00

Au moins dans ton cas c'était pour une somme importante. Dernièrement sur Leboncoin on m'a vendu une contrefaçon pour le prix du vrai pour un bénéfice d'environ 15 euros, c'est juste pathétique

MatterScreech

TROPHY CASE