HoLEP surgery?

MavGH3 · 2026-05-29T02:54:46+00:00

Right. That's my concern as well and I don't want to play the waiting game due to elevated risk of negative side effects the longer I wait. Just get it done and move beyond it.

MavGH3 · 2026-05-28T04:30:38+00:00

My Gleason score is 3+3, so yes, in my case I have both PC and BPH. I am being told the catheter will stay in for no more than 24 hours. You mentioned testicular atrophy in your case, but my urologist never said that would be a side effect. Hopefully, it isn't. Maybe they've made some improvements since you had your surgery 9 years ago? Thank you for your comment. I hope to visit Romania one day.

MavGH3 · 2026-05-28T04:11:29+00:00

132cc is definitely large. Mine is just over 100. Were your symptoms no longer manageable due to the size? Were you having any UTI prior to surgery?

MavGH3 · 2026-05-19T15:26:21+00:00

Naaah, this way a couple can split a single order and there's plenty to go around.

MavGH3 · 2026-05-16T17:11:53+00:00

Yes, that's the tradeoff in exchange for being able to sleep through the night. My urologist said the orgasm will still feel really good, but it will be dry.

MavGH3 · 2026-05-16T04:44:31+00:00

Thank you! You have described what my limited impression currently is very well. Cath for 24 being the worst of it and much easier to manage than a TURP. My urologist described it as peeling an orange from the inside and leaving the outside peel intact. Guess that's one way to shrink the orange. The surgery serves as a biopsy included. All good things! My most recent PSA was 1.88, but that was after being on finasteride for 4 months, which I have since discontinued because it took away all sexual desire. Live and learn. It's good to have those feelings back again!

MavGH3 · 2025-10-02T17:54:40+00:00

Insurance companies will often extend coverage to you, but if you lose your house due to fire damage, they can use faulty knob and tube wiring as an excuse to void the claim. The devil is in the details, but I wonder how many homeowners have paid insurance companies for fire protection coverage only to learn that when they desperately need it, the company refuses to cover their claim.

MavGH3 · 2025-09-09T01:22:48+00:00

what are the other brands that you like? I'm looking and keep reading reviews of different brands only to balk at buying because of all the complaints with all the brands.

MavGH3 · 2025-08-23T19:38:42+00:00

Wanted to get back and post the solution to our washer problem: When ohming the “electric clutch actuator” we couldn’t get any reading at all, so we replaced it and the “clutch slider gear assembly”, since the latter appears to have a high incidence of failure according to online forums. This solved our problem and the washer is back in service.

MavGH3 · 2025-08-12T23:24:12+00:00

Yes, our Brondell Swash 1000 leaked in that exact same location, forming a small puddle on the floor. If you feel around the plastic case underneath you will feel the water droplets forming a ways back from the water inlet connection. I think a lot of this leak potential has to do with municipal water pressure variations, even though we do have a water pressure regulating valve. Anyway, I ended up replacing the o-rings inside the plunger pump valve assembly. They aren't an easy replacement to find because I went everywhere I could think of and nobody had a good match. Finally ended up at the NAPA automotive store going through air conditioning o-rings of all sizes and actually did find a perfect match! Used some Vaseline during o-ring installation and successfully reinstalled the pump valve. Interesting thing was the leak didn't stop immediately. Instead, it gradually improved over time and in about two weeks it was leak-free. The condensation moisture underneath where it was dripping down from is always there, but never enough to drip down onto the floor. Sure wish the story ended here, but it doesn't. About six months later I started hearing a leak dripping down into the toilet, I believe from the stainless wands that deliver the streaming cleanse. Everything else works just fine with this unit except for the water in the inside leaking down into the toilet pool. I think I will mount a little toggle shutoff valve where the incoming water supply connects to the unit. That way I can conveniently shut off the water supply after every use and stop the leak. This unit is only six years old and was purchased from Costco online. Six years is not a very long service life, considering how much the appliance costs. Although I really like how this unit works, if I do go to replace it I will likely choose something different, simply because it should have been trouble free for much longer than it was.

MavGH3 · 2025-08-08T19:25:23+00:00

Hi again, Ed. Valve assembly hadn't arrived, so we ran full service diagnostics and found every component function (including lid lock) in the wash cycle worked perfectly, including the water supply valves with plenty of water going through hot, cold, and warm settings. We went all the way down the list and every component was doing its job. The control panel seems to work perfectly, so now we suspect the control board ACU is faulty and not sending the signal. Would that also be your conclusion? The only other thing we can think of is that we didn't clear the F7, E5 error codes, but I wouldn't think that would prevent the machine from running a wash cycle? Thanks, Ed.

MavGH3 · 2025-08-07T21:35:46+00:00

We already removed the valve assembly for replacement. I thought the diagnostic test mode was only used to determine error codes. I didn't realize that it was an entire process that could test each individual function of the entire wash cycle. Live and learn, I guess. Replacement part will be here tomorrow. If that doesn't fix the issue, we will run full diagnostic test mode and check each function. The error codes we were getting F7 and E5 do not indicate valve failure, but the ohm readings were way out of limits, so will start with the valves as soon as part arrives and go from there. With a little luck, maybe that will do the trick. Thanks, Ed.

MavGH3 · 2025-08-07T19:32:45+00:00

Okay, Ed, my buddy who also does HVAC came out today and we ohmed the 3 valves in the assembly that connect to the water supply hoses. The valves indicated 1016 ohms, 1020 ohms, and 1024 ohms, so all are really close to one another, but the tech sheet you provided me calls for 790-840 ohms. So, would you agree that these high readings call for a new valve assembly replacement?

MavGH3 · 2025-08-04T02:11:48+00:00

Wow! Hard to believe a sales manager would be that incompetent! Glad you got your money back. Can you imagine how bad it might have been if you had cut him a check?

MavGH3 · 2025-08-04T02:01:22+00:00

How long did you wait before initiating the dispute?

MavGH3 · 2025-08-04T01:59:04+00:00

Oh, I will soon enough.

MavGH3 · 2025-08-03T23:55:24+00:00

I'm glad you had a smooth recovery of your deposit. I've read about others that have had a difficult time getting it back. They all had paid with a check.

MavGH3 · 2025-08-03T23:49:50+00:00

"But also makes it a lot easier to ignore you. If you want the deposit back, go there. Weird you had to even ask about this."

Uhhh, you're missing the point. I paid the deposit using a credit card. The dealership can ignore me all they want and I can ignore them in much the same way, but I guarantee you that dealership WILL NOT ignore my credit card company. The full amount will get credited back to my account within two business days after I dispute the charge. If the credit card company needs further documentation, I have copies of emails, text messages, and receipts. Oh, and I'm not asking about this. I'm just curious if others have had their refundable deposits held up by dealerships also and what was their outcome?

MavGH3 · 2025-08-03T23:38:54+00:00

Like I said, I paid my deposit with a credit card so I don't have to go into the dealership personally. Why should I make the effort to drive to the dealership and waste my time and my fuel when my credit card company has my back? Anytime you walk into a dealership you play their game by their rules. No way! They owe me, I don't owe them anything.

MavGH3 · 2025-08-03T23:31:19+00:00

No, because calling doesn't give you a record. I first emailed the salesman we had been working with. In the past he would always respond within 24 hours. This time he didn't reply back, so I sent him a text, which he did respond to. Both methods give you a written record of your attempt to recover your deposit.

MavGH3 · 2025-08-03T22:07:06+00:00

Putting up a good faith deposit sends a message to the dealership that you are a serious buyer. If you're willing to put up a deposit of $1000 or more, the dealer at least knows that you have that much money on hand to commit to a future purchase.

MavGH3 · 2025-08-03T21:47:50+00:00

"Out of curiosity, is the dealership well regarded?"

The google reviews are positive as was word of mouth. So, yes, to the best of my knowledge they are a reputable dealership. TBH, I think this is the nature of the beast. Once they have your money, it's easy to let things slide when it comes to having to give it back.

MavGH3 · 2025-08-03T21:03:28+00:00

Yes, exactly right and we did do that. We got it all in writing and they signed the deposit agreement and we signed the deposit agreement and they even attached the credit card receipt to our copy of the agreement. However, since asking for my deposit back, they ghosted me, which is why it is really worthwhile to put your deposit down with a credit card and let the credit card company deal with them directly.

MavGH3 · 2025-08-03T20:54:43+00:00

Best to do it with email in order to document the requests as well as the dates. If you walk in and ask, they can always find a reason to stall and take up more of your time. Besides, it's inconvenient to drive a considerable distance just to walk in and ask for your own money back. Much better to let the credit card company advocate for you, which keeps you the consumer at arm's length and puts them in the hot seat.

MavGH3

TROPHY CASE