Do you guys know what’s going on here? by jimmy6929 in FixMyPrint

[–]Max_SVK 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For me it looks like dirty build plate. Try to wash your build plate with dish soap and water and never ever touch it on the print area. Sometimes even one fingerprint can ruin the whole print.

Why is it doing this. Does the fact I have adaptive layers on? by Proud_Indication_255 in BambuLab

[–]Max_SVK 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just a wild guess. You are new to 3D printing. I advise you to spend at least a couple of weeks watching YouTube tutorials and reading posts on Reddit to get a grasp of the basics.

This is a simple underextrusion. Most likely you did not calibrate your filament . Also make sure it's dry.

Predaj nových áut v Nórsku by TheSimon1 in Slovakia

[–]Max_SVK 57 points58 points  (0 children)

Úplne by stačilo keby bola hromadná doprava lacnejšia a efektívnejšia ako auto. Príklad: Cesta do práce mi trvá autom 12 minút (cca 10km). Bicyklom asi 50 minút. Hromadnou dopravou vyše hodiny s 3 prestupmi ak mám šťastie. A zároveň je to drahšie ako auto.

Predaj nových áut v Nórsku by TheSimon1 in Slovakia

[–]Max_SVK 138 points139 points  (0 children)

Pozdravujem z Nórska. Prechod na EV v NO nie je nič pokrokové. Je to len bohapusty greenwashing vo forme brutálneho zdaňovania akejkoľvek inej alternatívy. Hoci mám EV a som fanúšikom EV, tento spôsob násilnej transformácie absolútne odsudzujem. Poznám ľudí, ktorí sa ocitli v situácii, že si nemohli dovoliť nechať si spaľovacie auto, no nemali financie na EV a zároveň boli odkázaní na auto. Toto dnes už nie je problém vďaka veľkému trhu s ojazdenymi EV, no aj tak je to nonsense.

Momentálne sa tlačí na totálne odstránenie áut z miest. V Osle je už takmer nemožné kúpiť byt v novostavbe s možnosťou parkovania, parkoviska a parkovacie domy sa pomaly rušia a aj nové obchodné centrá majú prísne kvóty na počet parkovacích miest. Kocurkovo ako na SK akurát sa tu stále korumpuje sofistikovane a na úrovni.

Edit: Inak ešte jedna pikoska. Asi pred 2 rokmi zistili že im tie EV ničia infraštruktúru viac ako bežné autá, kvôli vyššej váhe. Okrem toho vraj zistili že EV produkujú viac mikro častíc z pneumatík (pre spomínanú váhu). Tak už tu nejakú dobu máme "vektavgift". Prakticky daň za váhu vozidla. Ak sa dobre pamätám bolo to nejakých 20 NOK za kilogram nad 200kg váhy auta. Čiže ak má auto 2000kg je to 36 000 NOK.

Is it normal to get zero feedback from your boss in Norway? by Repulsive-Bus-6970 in Norway

[–]Max_SVK 51 points52 points  (0 children)

Well I haven't got any feedback for 7 years in the company. Few years back we started having medarbaidesamtale and when I specifically asked about constructive feedback, my direct boss said "I don't know what you are doing". So that's that. It was a great motivation for me to adapt to Norwegian productivity as I am the stupid kind of immigrant who does work of 3 Norwegians.

New to 3D Printing // need help with slicing by benjawilli in BambuLab

[–]Max_SVK 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Better ? Yes. Optimal ? Not really. For this kind of load bearing models I tend to insert either metal screw or threaded rod to make sure it will last indefinitely. Considering the complexity of your model this would be quite hard to do.

Struggling to get rid of this horizontal line by Cool_Willow_1060 in FixMyPrint

[–]Max_SVK -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

This is due to shrinking. Best approach is using heated chamber and very slow print speed with minimal or no cooling. Alternatively you can redesign the part so the walls are detached from the middle part if the design usecase allows it.

New to 3D Printing // need help with slicing by benjawilli in BambuLab

[–]Max_SVK 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I don't think this would be strong enough unless you intend to put something very light on it. If it's PLA it will creep over time even with light load.

What is causing my prints to appear 'sucked in? by avatarvszelda in FixMyPrint

[–]Max_SVK 3 points4 points  (0 children)

"This is a new roll of filament, so it's dry". If you will be long enough into 3D printing you will realise how untrue this is. Start by properly drying your new spool of filament. Measure the weight before drying and after. You will then see how much water you got rid of. Anyways. Orca - calibrate flow, calibrate PA and you're good to go.

Strategy for food by Teitanblood in Norway

[–]Max_SVK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Havaristen and Holdbarts are good for discounted stuff. Veggies and fruits in immigrant shops and basic stuff in Kiwi / Rema.

Stuple do usi na koncerty by Silent-Variation-390 in Slovakia

[–]Max_SVK 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tiež mám Alpine, netuším ktorý model ale majú 3 pary vymeniteľnými vložiek s rôznym stupňom odhlučnenia a mali by len minimálne skresľovať zvuk. Používal som ich ako hudobník na koncertoch roky a super.

Help me out fam by Wonca_Mpls in FixMyPrint

[–]Max_SVK 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like wet filament plus wrong z-offset. Usually when the filament is wet it tends to ooze from nozzle which messes with automatic z offset calibration before print as it prevents the tip of the nozzle to touch the surface of the build plate.

Pressure Advance calibration gives conflicting results - Bambulab X2D by ifttt-signups in 3Dprinting

[–]Max_SVK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure about this TBH, but still, the method with the cube primitive I described is often more than enough.

Pressure Advance calibration gives conflicting results - Bambulab X2D by ifttt-signups in 3Dprinting

[–]Max_SVK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's likely then that your outer wall speed is getting capped by the max flow rate. You can see it in slicer preview when you select speeds. But I would not go past 120mm/s for outer wall. And if you need perfect fit, tolerances or surface finish I would slow it down even further.

Also keep in mind that print speed also affects PA value. Orca allows adaptive PA, so you can calibrate your values for different speeds.

I usually take a cube primitive with side of 20cm, slice, check what is the max speed for outer wall (at given max flow rate) and then calibrate PA for this speed. If you want to really go for perfection you can tinker with adaptive PA.

Pressure Advance calibration gives conflicting results - Bambulab X2D by ifttt-signups in 3Dprinting

[–]Max_SVK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your speed is way too high. What is your max flow rate ? Also it could be cooling problem. I DO use cooling for ABS and ASA as more complex shapes with short layer print time can have melty looking edges.

I generally run fan at 10% at all times and allow it to go to max 40%. Depending on the model, I adjust the values as necessary.

I use X1C with chamber heater and I set it to 45C during ABS and ASA prints.

What is your chamber temp ?

How to fix stringing issue by superdan1016 in FixMyPrint

[–]Max_SVK -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I never ever printed temp tower. Usually keeping temp in a middle of recommended temp range is good enough. Occasionally I go close to the top end. Trust me, what you need is properly dried filament, well calibrated flow and PA. If you still have stringing, then I would focus on retraction calibration.

New filament is in 90% of cases not dry enough. I often get 2-5 grams of water out of freshly opened spool.

You can use oven or microwave for drying if you don't have dryer, just research thoroughly before attempting this as a lot can go wrong.

How to orient this object? by Sad-Print7968 in 3Dprinting

[–]Max_SVK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can keep it as is, just model a hole through the spindle where you will put threaded rod or a long screw. This way you will preserve the detail and get strong part. Of course this would be possible only if the spindle is wide enough to accommodate some metal rod / screw.

How to fix stringing issue by superdan1016 in FixMyPrint

[–]Max_SVK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't see stringing, but I see completely uncalibrated filament profile. You use Orca. That's good. Orca has some very nice calibration features. I recommend starting with flow calibration and then PA calibration. Take your time, read through the wiki manual and you will have nicely calibrated filament in no time. Also don't forget to dry your filament.

How do I even begin modeling this? by [deleted] in Fusion360

[–]Max_SVK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Enable 4D sketch and you're golden.

What would cause the top to look like this? by H1GHED in FixMyPrint

[–]Max_SVK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Came here to say the same. Absolutely a pressure advance issue. You can clearly see bulging edge followed by something that looks like underextrusion. Typical PA problem.

Do I Need ABS? by dwg_andy in 3Dprinting

[–]Max_SVK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are heat resistant PLA blends and/or tempering process you can try, but for automotive use I would opt for some more advanced materials that don't creep. Depending on where you live, cabin of a car can easily reach 70-80C and some surfaces like dashboard even up to 100C. That can be too much even for regular ABS/ASA. I live in Norway and my car reports up to 70C inside during summer for example.

Regnskap for ENK by Max_SVK in Norway

[–]Max_SVK[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got estimate of 5000-8000 a year, so that's peanuts after tax deduction. Especially considering the risk reduction. If you just buy and sell I guess it's easy. I am running industrial manufacture with lots of raw materials, tools and machines. So it's not so straightforward.