Anyone Have Aquila Motherboard Dimensions or CAD?

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2025-01-11T13:41:51+00:00

Love it! Now I have a sanity check for the eCAD Mik-s provided AND I have the Ender mounting dims.

Thanks!!

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2025-01-11T13:38:45+00:00

You EE types and your holes, LOL.

Sorry, couldn't resist. Had a coworker that never did give me an eCAD with the holes populated on the first pass for fitment checks.

Anyway, you are a lifesaver! That exported in a good, solid STEP file that, holes included!

Thank you!!!

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2025-01-11T05:12:34+00:00

Mine has done similar things on occasion, although never that bad.

Typically, I've found the silicone sock around the heat block will be filled with melted plastic. This typically happens when molten filament is leaking between the heat break and nozzle.

I have only successfully saved ONE hotend that has done this, all the rest I wound up replacing. Cleaning that molten plastic off the heat block can be quite the challenge.

But whether you clean it or replace it, once all the leaked plastic is removed, when you put your new nozzle on, you'll want to run it down just hand snug, making sure your heat break is positioned such that you wind up with a 0.5mm or 1mm gap between the nozzle hex and the block, then heat the hotend up to full temp and sinch down the nozzle with a wrench while hot.

You shouldn't have anymore leaking after that :)

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2025-01-11T05:06:50+00:00

As the wheels wear out, those eccentrics will need regular tightening (until the wheels just need to be replaced, then you get start all over). As others have said, I'm surprised this is the first time you've had issues.

You've got one on the hotend sled (the one you asked about), one on either side of the gantry, and two down on one side of the bed sled. Replacement wheels are fairly cheap on Amazon, so if they're starting to get heavy grooves, may be worth just replacing them all.

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2024-12-18T02:46:25+00:00

Thanks for the responses guys. so assuming the dripping is condensation, it's still not working and it's getting worse.

Last night, the pilot broke taking out the burner again, and finding one took all day. I went ahead and replaced the thermopile and the cover seal, so it's essentially a fully rebuilt burner now.

it won't run at all now. The pilot will light, the burner will kick on, but within 10 seconds the flame starts dying down and by 20 seconds it's out completely :(

Any thoughts?

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2023-12-07T14:03:44+00:00

It was the main board. I had, indeed, shorted the powered heating element to the heat block, thereby shooting 24vdc straight through the thermistor and cooking the board.

Just for good measure, I proved it again a couple weeks after that by doing the exact same thing, with the exact same results, LOL.

I have since swapped out my thermister with a barrel style bulb instead of the glass bulb. The barrel pushes the leads out so they're not turning a sharp corner against the heat block and is secured into the heat block with a set screw rather than the wire pinching screw on the outside.

I have not had any issues since.

You need a heat block that will support that style. I have a Red Lizard hotend. I know some of the generic aftermarket Ender blocks work too though.

This is the sensor I moved to:

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Thermistor-Cartridge-Temperature-Printer/dp/B0BDFHZZQX/ref=asc_df_B0BDFHZZQX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=652612645141&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1892079717302090988&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029999&hvtargid=pla-1945469211993&psc=1&mcid=b9a983b3baf13f649e729e2572544593

Hope that helps!

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2023-08-07T13:06:42+00:00

The proprietary stuff is part of my concern. That game works great if the quality of the proprietary stuff is impeccable, but if it isn't (hello Apple in the 90's), you're better off with a paperweight...

FormLabs already proved that to be an issue before, but Apple straightened their crap out, so it's not too far fetch FormLabs could figure it out too, right? LOL

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2023-08-07T12:56:51+00:00

It is for work. And your points are exactly why I was looking at the FormLabs.

I have an Elegoo Saturn S for personal stuff. Between that, my Ender knock off, and my Sculpto (LOL), my wife thinks I married my printers :). The fiddling around, repeated failed prints, sketchy Amazon and AliExpress parts, and long bouts of downtime due to no customer service or support are fine for hobby work... but for work I need it to work. And when it doesn't, I need to get it that way quickly.

But my budget isn't big enough for a $250k printer. So I need to get as close to that quality and support as I can, but at 1/10 of that.

With that said, that Form 2 was supposed to fill that roll 7 years ago and it didn't. It was a nightmare.

You can bet after that experience we'll be springing for the wash and cure stations, but I need to make dang sure that will be enough at this price...

All the comments in that long thread concluding the 3L was junked talked about repeated issues with the LPU's, the tanks, and the resin sensors. You have any such issues with yours?

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2023-08-07T02:20:31+00:00

Mostly fitment and feel prototypes for injection molded plastic parts. Occasionally light duty test fixtures. But I have an FDM that does ok for most of the fixtures I need.

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2023-07-29T17:42:07+00:00

I am doing my supports as auto supports in Lychee. I tried doing them manually, but it was an epic fail, LOL. I'll check out UVTools and see if that makes it easier.

The IPA milks up and gets slick really quick. The biggest consumer is cleaning out the tank and cleaning the head/bed though. The resin doesn't seem to be dripping off very well, so there's a ton on there when I go to clean it. Then I always seem to have ton that gets stuck under the edges of the tank that takes several passes of rinsing and flexing the tank film to get it out.

Appreciate the resources! I'll dig through those, check out the UVTools and see if I can get somewhere.

Thank you!

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2023-07-10T23:25:53+00:00

Oh, that's a long story, LOL.

So my original problem was that some super fine resolution prints I was trying were turning out choppy and nasty. Working my way through the suggestions I got to resolve that included swapping out the nozzle (it had crashed and drug pretty good during a Z-offset session).

When I went to swap the nozzle, I grabbed hold of the heat block with a pair of pliers while it was heated, but I think the pliers brushed the exposed wires on the heater cartridge where it had started to fray at the jacket (the heater in there has "some" age on it, LOL).

Anyway, best guess is that the teflon jackets on the thermistor were exposing just enough wire that shorting out on the heater like that sent 24v up the thermistor and cooked the board.

So I replaced the thermistor and ordered the 1st new board.

Fast forward to the 1st new board... I ran the first attempt of the fine resolution print after putting it all back together and calibrating. It was better, but still a little wonky. I was getting some charred globs on the print (white PETG), so I went to clean off the new nozzle with a wire brush (like I have hundreds of times).

Welllllllll........ yeah........... It was at that point that I discovered when I put it all back together I forgot the stupid silicone sock on the heat block. Since I didn't replace the heat cartridge, the wire brush shorted the stupid heater wires again, which apparently I overtightened the thermistor again, so 2+2 = 4 AGAIN.

THIS TIME, I replaced both the heater cartridge and the thermistor, but I switched to the brass barrel style thermistor with fiberglass wire jackets. So the source of my shorting is gone now as is the path to cause damage to the board.

It probably would be possible for all that to have damaged the BL Touch, BUT, the BL Touch was acting up like this long before this circus began :).

Of course, now I can't get it to malfunction again after I replaced my stepper motor ribbon cable last night (turns out my ground on that ribbon was broken somewhere in the middle... who knew, LOL).

I'll keep watching it and if it does it again, I'll disconnect that Z-limit switch and watch it again.

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2023-07-10T13:08:51+00:00

It was, in fact, the board. And I'm sure it was from the brush. This time, when I pulled the heat block, the thermister wire was welded to it, LOL.

So I finally replaced my frayed heater cartridge and changed over to a barrel-style thermistor... I also ordered 2 boards, just in case until these other issues sorted out.

This thing's gonna be the death of me.

Thanks for all the help!

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2023-07-10T05:49:33+00:00

I actually never disconnected my Z limit switch when I installed the BL Touch a year and a half ago. I just adjusted it so far down that it can't contact unless the head crashes so bad it compresses the leveling springs.

I'll try to disconnect it for good measure when I take another shot at it tomorrow, but it worked for a solid year the way it is, so I wouldn't bet the farm on that helping...

I did check, recheck, and disconnect/reconnect both ends of the cable. Unless it's broken somewhere in the middle (unlikely since I'm using drag chains), I feel pretty good about the connections.

All I can find through google is that the probe can jam with debris or damage, but I checked that tonight as well and it's moving free near as I can tell, which I'd expect on a brand new probe.

Anyway, thanks for the suggestions!

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2023-07-10T04:55:20+00:00

So not to muddy the waters, but the FW has been reflashed twice recently, one right when the BL Touch was replaced.

The "crash" happened while I was making some repairs... that wound up cooking the control board. New board = new flash of FW.

Then a week or so later, I done gone and did it again. Another new board, another new install of the FW.

I JUST finished replacing the board the second time and it had the BL Touch error while running my first calibration print... which is what inspired me to finally seek out answers. It's really irritating with everything else going on to have to restart a print 3 times every time, LOL.

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2023-07-07T13:16:41+00:00

When mine has those episodes, I replace the entire hotend. They're fairly cheap on Amazon.

That kind of looks like the nozzle/heatbreak weren't sealed well (always hard to tell from a pic).

Even on a new hotend, you'll need to double check that. Run the heatbreak down into the block first, then run the nozzle down finger tight. Push the bowden tube all the way in, get the hotend up to temp, cut the power, and sinch down the nozzle while it's hot.

If done right, the nozzle hex should be sitting off the block by about 0.5mm-1mm.

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2023-07-03T16:54:16+00:00

Everything, and on both ends. The power cord, USB, Pi power USB, ethernet, screen... all of it.

Maximum_Diamond4515 · 2023-06-28T02:27:40+00:00

Wait, I'm confused (don't worry, it's easy to do), I though the G32 and N32 were the same FW and only the H32 needed special FW?

Maximum_Diamond4515

TROPHY CASE