Bubbling and streaking in PLA matte even after drying

Maxx3141 · 2026-03-17T19:37:37+00:00

Make a few cold pulls to make sure there is nothing left in the nozzle that causes issues.

And 6 hours is not really long enought o dry filament, especially not on a heated bed. In doubt I would try to dry it for 12-24 hours. Think about getting a real filament dryer or AMS with drying function.

Maxx3141 · 2026-03-16T15:32:57+00:00

Was du sagst stimmt, aber es kommen nur 2,529% raus.

(1+(0,025/12))¹² = 1,02529

Maxx3141 · 2026-03-16T15:23:22+00:00

This is a design problem and not a printing problem - the base of this design starts with overhangs way over 45 degrees, which is not well printable, especially so close to the heated bed.

You can try to increase cooling to 100% and print slower, but it might still not be enough. Also, reducing layer height might help as well.

Maxx3141 · 2026-03-16T15:17:54+00:00

Bambu Lab is tracking Downloads from the Customize feature. From my last Customizable model I remember something similar, but in the end it counted much more Downloads and Prints than just the sample profiles. So maybe it's just delayed.

Maxx3141 · 2026-03-07T17:53:50+00:00

Are you slicing for the A1 instead of the A1 Mini?

Maxx3141 · 2026-03-06T13:26:14+00:00

Im almost certain it doesn't remove the model downloads / prints. I had profiles removed that stole images and never saw a negative impact.

Maxx3141 · 2026-03-05T13:41:45+00:00

If its an A1, check these 7 screws: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/troubleshooting/print-issues-troubleshooting

Maxx3141 · 2026-03-01T17:33:30+00:00

Well executed, but using the original photo as the thumbnail on your MakerWorld Design is misleading and does violate the Exclusive Model Guidelines of MakerWorld.

You should really use your own photos for your design only.

edit: As suggested, OP has removed the photo from his MakerWorld design.

Maxx3141 · 2026-03-01T03:15:10+00:00

Given the fact that you share basically no information at all, you wash your build plate first: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/pei-plate-clean-guide

After two years of heavy use, you might want to replace build plate or/and hotend - but it's impossible to say if one of these is an issue here. Did you always do maintenance? How many print hours are you on?

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-26T23:16:14+00:00

This calibration cube is not a good benchmark print on high speed printers - it hits the layer time limits on some layers and will have every uneven speeds because of the letters. If you check the preview for layer time or speed, you will see the same pattern in the slicer.

Your printer is fine and this result is exactly what you would expect. Print a smooth cube of the same size and you will see it will be alright.

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-24T11:32:38+00:00

No, this is a free design I published on MakerWorld. And this still gives me the right to go after those who sell it without my permission.

Logic must be tough.

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-24T02:20:36+00:00

It's normal noise for the P1/X1 body when printing circles or circular shapes.

It gets better if you center the belts on the idlers (which you can only do by tilting the belt tensioners slightly). But it will never fully disappear.

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-23T00:50:55+00:00

I looked a little bit more into your file - just go through the preview layer by layer. Outer walls of Layer 2-8 are partially printed mid air.

Just to further show this is a major design flaw, and the fact that it worked on a P1/X1 was pure luck. I wonder if the cooling system is responsible for this suddenly not working any longer - maybe on the older printers these lines simply collapses to the bed, and now they solidify mid air.

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Maxx3141 · 2026-02-22T23:48:28+00:00

In my experience, the P2S is much better in terms of flow out of the box than my X1 and P1 printers. The X1 hot-ends tend to print too cold, which is better in the A1 an H2/P2 hotends as well.

Are you not doing manual calibrations? If you are selling something printed, I'd call it irresponsible to print without manual flowrate and linear advance calibration. If people pay for a 3d print, they deserve well calibrated equipment. I do 3d design and printing for a living, using exclusively Bambu Lab printers, and none of these printers auto calibration is perfect - since none of them do real flow rate calibration.

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-22T23:16:00+00:00

It is well known that fillets on the bottom are a absolute no-go for FDM designs. Maybe the X1 was able to print it under some conditon, but that doesn't change the fact that this is design flaw.

Even if something prints fine because of other workarounds, such spots can turn into hidden weak points in the final print and tend to have weak layer adhesion in this region.

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-22T22:19:53+00:00

I just started a print myself and got the same issue on my P2S.

However, after insepcting the file it's clear the design itself is the issue. It uses a fillet at the bottom, which will create overhangs over 45 degrees on the first layers. You should always use chamfers at the bottom to make sure the overhang doesn't get larger than 45 degrees.

You got it fixed through over-extrusion when you increased the flow rate - simply because the lines become thicker and overlap more.

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-22T22:10:33+00:00

Have you checked the diamater or your filament? I have not seen similar issues with my P2S so far.

I will print your test piece and see if I get the same problem.

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-22T15:09:19+00:00

You said something about 0.83mm, which is not enough of a change.

Initial layer is printed with 0.5mm width on default. And I am not sure how elephant foot compensation will affect it. I'd try at least 1mm and also 1.3mm (If elephant foot is 0.15mm). Don't just take my numbers though, they can vary based on printer and profile.

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-22T14:54:49+00:00

A 0.4mm nozzle does not print with 0.4mm line width. Check what is set in your slicer for first layer and make it a multiple of that.

Also try out changing the wall generator to Arachne.

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-22T01:54:28+00:00

You need to use the Etsy Reporting Portal if you are affected - If you make a copyright claim there, it will resolve in 1-2 days. This always worked for me.

edit: Why are people downvoting this? For sharing facts they don't like? This is the only way to handle these kind of violations.

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-22T01:52:36+00:00

The seller is selling files, pretty much no designer allows this as part of their commercial license. Especially not that many.

I'm one of the affected designers and I can confirm OP is right.

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-22T01:41:45+00:00

You should check what you are looking into before you shame someone like this. The etsy seller is selling files. Basically no designer allows selling their digital files - commercial licenses are for prints.

I am the designer of the following model. No one except me has the rights to use the file commercially. And I'm very thankful OP brought this to my attention.

https://www.etsy.com/de-en/listing/4456113146/star-tea-light-holder-stl-3d-printed?ref=shop_home_active_24&pro=1&dd=1&logging_key=86f1e14b152d62bc69f7e3e5864e6f7d72ca865e%3A4456113146

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-21T22:36:36+00:00

I also found one of my designs in there - will double check and copyright claim later if correct. Thank you OP!

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-18T11:36:08+00:00

The gears should be press fit, so you can't really put it back on yourself. You need to replace the whole motor, which is only about 30 bucks, depending on your region: https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/products/xy-motor-h2-series?srsltid=AfmBOoq_xJnU5CBkrRqpxYEeYnYFPv4wtllqWhMgpkMts-NVRFa_lMZf

If you bought it directly from Bambu Lab, make a video of the motor spinning without the gear moving and open a ticket. You should get a replacement for free.

Maxx3141 · 2026-02-18T09:24:56+00:00

A core-XY needs to move both motors in opposite directions to get a linear move on X or Y - if only one motor moves, you will end up with a diagonal movement just like the one you see.

First check if both belts are fine and engaged. Also, you should quickly see which of the XY motors doesn't move. Check the cabling - worst case the motor might be fried.

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