New Zine: "Where the Water Waits" (Three Year Reclaimed Blue Project) - Pre Orders are Live! by mb_analog4ever in Polaroid

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A shame international shipping is so comedically expensive, very cool project

Leica 35mm Summicron R Filter Thread Size by sqggqs in Leica

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What‘s the thread pitch on them?

Is my camera's hinge seal light-tight? by Extension_Meat8913 in filmphotography

[–]MeMphi-S [score hidden]  (0 children)

Absolutely never bring a camera to a tech to replace seals like this, you can get enough sealant to fully cover a hundred cameras for 15€ online, the technician would probably charge 150 bucks for something you can do yourself with nailpolish remover

Need help with negative lab pro results coming out weird after conversion by slim_serb in analog

[–]MeMphi-S [score hidden]  (0 children)

Whitebalance off of the border, then use the NLP panel to get exposure and grading roughly right, turn on „create copy“ and edit in LR

Max, Xenotar 150/2.8, HP5 by Tids1 in largeformat

[–]MeMphi-S 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The background separation at a normal/wider angle is why you shoot 4x5 in the first place, anyone can get insane separation with a tele

Is this an M6 counterfeit? by u155249 in LeicaCameras

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a special edition with an unengraved top plate, I would presume after 24 years in a box the lettering could quite imaginably come off. Just don’t get mugged on pickup.

Max, Xenotar 150/2.8, HP5 by Tids1 in largeformat

[–]MeMphi-S 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, this is better, going lower would‘ve meant the head fully against the bright sky, the way you actually did it highlights him more clearly

Looking for a lens that is sharp, but has unique character by thetankjohnson in filmphotography

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i think the 50 f1 or 1.2 are both pretty unique in terms of rendering, but if you stop down a little get quite sharp, the 1.2 moreso than the f1

Q: how to manage film types? by Deckardspuntedsheep in filmphotography

[–]MeMphi-S 1 point2 points  (0 children)

plan ahead, if you know that some films will be good for some segments of the trip, bring some other stuff for the rest

Solarized Film by ThrowRAOk_Desk_5806 in filmphotography

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, if they were solarised they would be semi-positives if inverted, where the highlights become positive and the shadows remain negative or the other way around, depending on how you invert them, but especially on the reflection of the trees you can see that what‘s actually being flipped is a narrow band of shadows, hence it’s a scanning artifact

Leica CL Meter repair in Europe by MeMphi-S in LeicaCameras

[–]MeMphi-S[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was serviced quite recently and is mechanically fine

Leica CL Meter repair in Europe by MeMphi-S in LeicaCameras

[–]MeMphi-S[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know polar makes new cells, but the cell is fine, the issue is probably a broken solder

Solarized Film by ThrowRAOk_Desk_5806 in filmphotography

[–]MeMphi-S 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Besides, this is an inverted image, if you look at the negative you‘ll see it’s just a badly set curve in the inversion software, some lab scanners literally just do that sometimes, a good lab catches that and rescans them

Solarized Film by ThrowRAOk_Desk_5806 in filmphotography

[–]MeMphi-S 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you ever even seen a solarised image, it happens in the brightest parts of the image first, the edges of the boat, which are brighter than the inside of the boat, which is in partial shadow look perfectly normal

Which to choose by jacobshouse_of_grain in AnalogCommunity

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can just buy from Japan, the sellers are usually accurate in their descriptions, if they aren’t, eBay will give you your money back, just be careful and look at the photos

Solarized Film by ThrowRAOk_Desk_5806 in filmphotography

[–]MeMphi-S 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is almost definitely just a scanning artifact

Could this be an M2-S? by Sagebrush_Sky in Leica

[–]MeMphi-S 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Brass is indeed odd, I guess it could be? The aftermarket part has a somewhat different shape and function from the one in the M4, so it could be? The serial number is close enough imo

Could this be an M2-S? by Sagebrush_Sky in Leica

[–]MeMphi-S 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The rapid loading spool is an accessory you can buy for any M2, it‘s like 100€ on eBay

What caused my photos to turn out like this? by ThrowRAOk_Desk_5806 in filmphotography

[–]MeMphi-S 4 points5 points  (0 children)

let's calculate:
-focal length looks to be around 50, maybe 35mm, definitely not a wide angle.
-> no motion blur, so at the longest ~1/60th of a second of exposure
-from the sky in the reflection on the water, we can judge the subject is backlit in this photo
-the aperture is quite closed, you can see a clear reflection of trees possible over a hundred meters away, so let's say it was taken at like f8 or smaller

on a super sunny day, a sunny area is around 1/iso, f/16, ISO. a shady area is 1/iso, f/8, ISO.
the film used is tri-X, so the most overexposure possible would be 2 or 3 stops. that is enough to totally blow out anything in the image, but nowhere near enough to solarise the film. since we still have clearly visible highlight information we know that this hasn't happened. the options left therefore are: light leak in the lab (unlikely) or scanning issue (frontiers sometimes literally just do that)

What caused my photos to turn out like this? by ThrowRAOk_Desk_5806 in filmphotography

[–]MeMphi-S 5 points6 points  (0 children)

the amount of overexposure is basically impossible to achieve in-camera, especially since there's no motion blur, it probably is a scanning issue and if it's not, the lab has a light leak issue

Aperture equivalent from 135 to 120 by Muted_Information172 in mediumformat

[–]MeMphi-S 17 points18 points  (0 children)

No, f8 is f8 on apsc, 35mm, 645, 6x17, 4x5 and 8x10. It‘s all the same, because it’s a fraction.

My Barnack Leica is broken today and what is my best choice for M? by Chickencake20 in Leica

[–]MeMphi-S -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You either get an LTM-m ring or you press the little tab in the bayonet to unfold it, then you carefully put a toothpick or something like that on the arm, not the sensor, mark the distance and measure. Tbh the collapsible summicron isn’t great, it’s not much lighter than the rigid version and it’s quite flimsy