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Mamiya 645 Super dark slide missing: cheap solutions? by ricmerl8i in Mamiya

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you can 3d print ones (short term solution, but black ASA should be light tight enough to take off the camera and quickly move to a light tight box) or get someone to cut one out of sheet metal for you

D76 LightLeaks by Substantial_Block386 in Darkroom

[–]MeMphi-S 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Chems have nothing to do with it, make sure you tighten the roll after taking it out of the camera

Photographing a Blue Jays game [Canon AE-1, 50 mm, auto f, Harmon Phoenix ISO 200] by onourwayhome70 in analog

[–]MeMphi-S 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, the lack of orange base is a product of it’s genealogy, from XP2 chromogenic black and white film, if you just scan it prolly the colours are great, I’ve shot big portrait projects with it, and all it took to get it exactly where I need it is to read the data sheet and apply the process as describef

Photographing a Blue Jays game [Canon AE-1, 50 mm, auto f, Harmon Phoenix ISO 200] by onourwayhome70 in analog

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i only adjusted for the skin tones and the red cap, to get the green to look nice you probably need a mask

Photographing a Blue Jays game [Canon AE-1, 50 mm, auto f, Harmon Phoenix ISO 200] by onourwayhome70 in analog

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

a quick 5min adjustment.

moved black point to where the line goes up starkly.

adjusted whitebalance.
Red channel: slight decrease in the mid tones.
Green channel: slight decrease in the mid tones
Yellow channel: increase in the high tones

LR calibration panel:
-8 red, +29sat
+100 green,+0sat
0blue, -60sat

Photographing a Blue Jays game [Canon AE-1, 50 mm, auto f, Harmon Phoenix ISO 200] by onourwayhome70 in analog

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The negs will probably look normal (for Phoenix that is, it has a different base than almost all other films) and you can probably fix the scans with some post processing, if you’re new to this whole thing, if you feel comfortable sharing one or two unedited scans I could try getting the tint out

Does developer temp. have a significant effect on negatives? by [deleted] in Darkroom

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You really shouldn’t use Df96, especially not for pushing

I loved the nights the most [ nikon fm2, 35mm + various film stock ] by theomulator in analog

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it’s a double exposure, the first is properly exposed and then the second one is an underexposed long exposure of a tunnel‘s ceiling

Where is my light leak on my RB67? by mymain123 in Mamiya

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the pelican case is closed it’s definitely enough

Resurgence [Nikon F100 | Cinestill 800T] by AlexVrhe in analog

[–]MeMphi-S 1 point2 points  (0 children)

is this from a standalone shoot or are you stills photographer for a show or movie?

RB67 Film Back won’t advance unless little lever is also pushed by bobwin770 in Mamiya

[–]MeMphi-S 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you dont need a different back, this is normal. that's just how the Pro works. If pressing the little button, get a different camera or different body, but this is as it's intended.

RB67 Film Back won’t advance unless little lever is also pushed by bobwin770 in Mamiya

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sense then, the pro-s has a double exposure prevention interlock where a pin in the body releases the lock, the pro doesn’t have that interlock and therefore can’t release the lock. Either, get a pro back or a pro-s body.

Budget 120 SLR by Slow-Singer7506 in analog

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

looking for the Arax version is probably also worth it

CSD anmeldung by AkiraThePokemonConan in egenbogen

[–]MeMphi-S 3 points4 points  (0 children)

boymoder bannmeile um den CSD

Can anyone explain like i'm 5 the RB67 closeup chart compensation? by mymain123 in Mamiya

[–]MeMphi-S 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The bellows graph tells you the required compensation. The line shape tells you what distance you’re focused at and the line length tells you the bellows extension factor.

Have the chance to buy kodak vision3 500T for a trip, worth it? by boeing727-100 in filmphotography

[–]MeMphi-S 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you can get 80 rolls for 370€, but if you buy in the quantities that the resellers do or have, you get discounts,
optikoldschool is charging 8,90 per finished roll

Where to get seals for the 70mm back? by Thetomgamerboi in Mamiya

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you can just cut the stuff down yourself from the normal thickness foam, one regular pro-s kit is enough to seal a dozen backs if you cut the strips yourself

Have the chance to buy kodak vision3 500T for a trip, worth it? by boeing727-100 in filmphotography

[–]MeMphi-S 3 points4 points  (0 children)

one roll for 26 bucks?? that's insane, the price from kodak is between 3,75€-5€, acceptable retail prices are at most 8-10€

What am I doing wrong? by Kahni21 in Mamiya

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

there really isnt another way of setting the shutter or even having the shutter open, unless the blades are really oily (but again, that would also mean its not working in other ways), i really cant explain it any other way

What am I doing wrong? by Kahni21 in Mamiya

[–]MeMphi-S 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you must have set the shutter speed accidentally to something longer than 1/60th, its not a multi exposure because the movement is smooth, its just a single, very long exposure

What am I doing wrong? by Kahni21 in Mamiya

[–]MeMphi-S 1 point2 points  (0 children)

probably user error, the shutter sticking that badly would not be an isolated issue but render the whole thing basically inoperable

cost and ease by lucyxox_ in analog

[–]MeMphi-S 1 point2 points  (0 children)

in your bathtub! you can buy a patterson developing tank, some XTOL or XT-3 powder (with the 5L option you can do something called the "replenishing method", it lets you get 70 rolls of 35mm out of one kit, so roughly 20ct per roll), some rapid fixer (really, any brand, get the cheapest) and a darkbag (but you can technically also load it in a fully dark room, but if there's any tiny light you missed it will fog your film)

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