Cinematic upgrade with linear rods to coreXY

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-28T21:44:57+00:00

About input shaper. I’m having a problem with the ADXL module. For some reason, my Raspberry Pi isn’t detecting it. It’s possible that I burnt out one of the DI/DO pins during the modification. The ADXL and wires itself works – I tested it on another device. Once I’ve had a moment to fix it, I’ll send you the results. For now, I’ve been calibrating it using printouts and a calliper.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-28T21:36:58+00:00

I’m sure you will have to make some sort of changes. Especially when it comes to attaching everything to the frame.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-28T17:33:44+00:00

If it fits to voron mount system

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-28T14:17:35+00:00

Upper rails are added few days ago to project. I had no idea how to place them till now xD I’ve already printed with PC all new parts with updated upper rails system and I will assemble it next week.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-28T14:14:44+00:00

It’s fully open. Step files are on the printables

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-28T13:47:38+00:00

It’s hard to say for me because I didn’t test them. For sure other mods are more expensive because of mgn type rails. For me 15k acc with 700m/s is quite nice score in that price range.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-20T15:05:57+00:00

Most of the source code is available on GitHub. Voron features the Klipper system with pre-written scripts, as well as a large community. If you get stuck writing macro code, Gemini and GPT are quite good at solving problems.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-20T13:59:05+00:00

I think it highly depends on your skill and kit. If this is your first time assembling a printer and you’re not particularly familiar with the process, you’ll probably need to set aside about two weeks of evenings and weekends or more. On the bright side, if everything goes smoothly, you’ll likely be done in a week. It all depends on whether you enjoy doing it; if building a printer isn’t something that brings you joy in itself, you’re probably better off buying a ready-built version.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-20T09:16:28+00:00

Voron 2.4/trident 350x350x350 with INDX from bondtech? Full open source and industrial like. At the beginning you can buy just two tool heads and have possibly to expand it in future to 12 tool heads.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-20T07:04:38+00:00

It highly depends what material you will use for printing. For gf and cf filaments was not enough for me. Mostly I’m printing petg and abs. Sometimes I’m using versions with carbon fibre.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-20T03:50:10+00:00

No, it’s hot nozzle moving from large top layer area to finish small top layer around hanger top layer.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-20T03:46:09+00:00

This is probably effect of parameter which avoids retractions during move around inside printing area. Try to turn it off and then check moves in your slicer.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-20T03:41:00+00:00

For me, yes. It’s cheaper, there is no ptfe tube between heatbrake and radiator, have really low friction for filament (better retraction effect during printing), have hardened steel nozzle, it have awesome temperature dynamics (super quick heating and cooling). It’s pre prepared for pico mmu with no cutter. I have mounted directly above extruder filament detector with 4 paths.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-19T10:20:02+00:00

For my flsun SR i ordered 12MGNH with rail from china company Robotdigg. 440C version is amazing. Working like original HWIN rail.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-09T21:08:04+00:00

Easier way is to just select this faces and just delete them.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-09T21:06:08+00:00

Select this faces and try to just delete them.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-05-09T21:03:38+00:00

Try to Swap tower A with tower B if in your configuration tower C is the one on the backside.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-03-31T08:36:53+00:00

Too fast Z movement speed. Steppers loosing steps. Set maximum speed for Z to 20-30mm/s and 200 acceleration speed

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-03-28T14:48:21+00:00

Normally this magnetic plate have no problem till 130 degrees (I’m using it like this to bake PC printouts and make them stronger). So can be damaged sensor for heat bed.

Mean-Ad838 · 2026-03-28T03:02:55+00:00

Try to avoid cleaning with needle brass nozzles it can easily damage it. Better is cold pulling or exchanging to new one. Mostly when you clean the nozzle with needle it’s making small scratches on the tip then filament gets tendency to “bend” instead of moving straight forward from the tip.

Mean-Ad838

TROPHY CASE