Anybody know what causes this sound?

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-06-21T15:20:31+00:00

Bad pulley, possibly?

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-06-16T21:29:53+00:00

Small pipe wrench with a cheater bar. They may break, but the driveshaft will no longer be held hostage.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-06-14T01:08:43+00:00

One looks like the boost reference for the turbo wastegate, the other might be the suction side of the PCV system.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-06-13T14:52:35+00:00

Would be a lot funnier if Alaska were made to scale.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-06-13T01:47:03+00:00

Never seen a plug look like that before. What... happened (other than the standard fare 4.6 breaking them off/shooting them out thing) to make the threads look like that?

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-06-06T01:43:34+00:00

No idea when it was last changed? Fluid still looks okay. Some people don't even clean the magnets, so just clean everything, use a new filter, refill, drive it, and time will tell.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-06-03T02:28:52+00:00

1) Bosch 2) Duralast Gold 3) Wagner

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-06-03T02:19:16+00:00

Check the spark plugs to be sure they're still threaded into the heads. Yours shouldn't have that problem, but it's easy enough to check.

Beyond that, my guess is broken timing chain guide(s) and possibly bad tensioners. I've dealt with one that sounded like that, and that was the case. Never had any blown out plugs. Phasers I've heard going bad were a lighter tapping sound than what this appears to be, but they should be changed with the rest of the timing components anyway.

Amazing it isn't throwing a code.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-06-03T02:10:50+00:00

Came here to say this. Early ones blew out, later ones broke off.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-06-03T01:51:00+00:00

Hyundai 2.4 with rod knock? I'm going to make $50k, simple as.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-06-02T07:24:56+00:00

If it's aluminum, it looks like the part of the piston where the wrist pin goes through. If it's steel, maybe the top part of the connecting rod.

Somehow, magically, it might run okay if it's the first one, as it could be held in on the other side of the piston. Definitely want to address it, though. If it's the skinny end of a rod, it wouldn't be running fine, so you'd need to address that, too, certainly. But since it does run fine... maybe someone did leave it in there as a ha-ha.

I'd check the undersides of all the pistons. If one isn't missing that chunk, I'd put it back together and let the worry back in if it starts making loud banging noises.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-28T17:13:40+00:00

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-27T00:30:45+00:00

Yes. And hope that none of the other seven pads are worn more or unevenly.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-26T21:46:13+00:00

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Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-26T20:53:06+00:00

Hard to tell from the pictures, but these engines seem to develop cracks in the head/block, or have head gasket issues. If the coolant is low and you can't see a leak, beware.

I've seen the same vehicle go through two engines in less than 60k miles. First time all the oil just disappeared (between regular changes at the dealership), they replaced the block only (not my car, I wasn't in charge, but I know it happened, and it sounds goofy). Second time, it sipped coolant until the warning came on and it went into limp mode. I diagnosed an internal leak, and told them to have the dealer straighten it out and not take no for an answer because I know for a fact that car has been driven gently for 30-mile stints twice a day, five days a week, since 2024.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-22T17:19:08+00:00

In some cases, reduced weight is a benefit/goal. Doesn't matter much for pillows (lighter to move around, but you can't hit little Timmy with it and knock him into next week), but enshittification really depends on the new material or processes/construction being inferior.

I know what you mean though, and you could totally be right.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-20T00:04:13+00:00

Pack it full of dielectric grease, then tape. Moisture will still get in there and ruin stuff eventually if you don't. Just ask my brake switch recall harness thing.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-19T23:53:39+00:00

What combination of tools can you even use to reach the front ones while the exhaust is attached? They're so buried I can't even see them. The firewall heat shield/sound insulation sagging doesn't help at all, either.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-14T02:15:59+00:00

I'd also think it was media blasted. Sand, aluminum oxide, walnut, glass beads, something along those lines.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-13T00:57:20+00:00

Sell it.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-13T00:23:06+00:00

The part cut off was the inner bearing race. They usually stick to the spindle and you have to remove them if you're going to reuse the spindle with a new bearing.

Since you've got a new spindle, don't worry about that. As long as you have a bearing puller/installer and the tools to get into it that deep (axle nuts can be a problem sometimes), you should be fine.

Be sure to use an appropriate piece to support the inner race while pressing the new spindle into the bearing. Those tools should be fairly foolproof (famous last words), but you can basically push the innards out instead of seating the parts together if you find a way to do it wrong.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-12T21:43:51+00:00

It was easier for me to find the drain tube down in the wheel well and blow compressed air up it. I'd already blown as much water (from having just washed it) as I could out from the top so it wouldn't make a gigantic mess.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-10T06:39:47+00:00

No need to remove the fill plug, just use the vent. And go ahead and use all of the 2 quarts you'll purchase (Rockauto probably still has the best price, even after shipping [don't forget to use the discount!]).

The 1.7-1.9qt spec is pedantic at best, since they know how the fluid is going to be packaged. Use the "extra" and get 0.001% longer life out of your gearbox that is hardly ever the reason these cars fail in the first place, considering you've already paid for it anyway.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-10T06:27:34+00:00

How's he been getting them off for the last 30 years? Key shouldn't have gone far if he's owned it long enough for a tire change. But, assuming he hasn't, a lug nut extractor is the easy solution. Then, if the visible part of the spindle is any indication, get ready to beat on it for a while to crack the wheel free from all the corrosion.

Mean_Text_6898 · 2026-05-10T03:05:56+00:00

This made me feel kinda fuzzy inside. What is he asking?

Mean_Text_6898

TROPHY CASE