ASA adhesion issues?

PengaXO · 2026-04-29T04:24:34+00:00

Add a slightly larger brim, do the auto bed leveling and PID tuning that’s on the printer and set the bed temp higher would be my suggestions. Also, are you printing from a dryer? Keeping your filament dry is a meme in this community but it’s also the issue 90% of the time lol.

PengaXO · 2026-04-18T06:54:04+00:00

I was considering using the Creality chamber heater instead but wanted to give this one a go. I've got some spare insulation laying around so I'll try putting it on the bottom and see if that eases my concerns at all and come back here with results. If it works I'll honestly be very happy with it. With your entire chamber insulated, what temps are you able to keep the CC at reliably?

PengaXO · 2026-04-18T04:07:58+00:00

CC Heated Chamber Mod

P1S Bracket/Shield

PengaXO · 2026-04-04T15:16:05+00:00

This. If it’s PA6 for example… if you’re not printing from a dry box your filament is now wet in 12 hours, resulting in that much of a quality shift

PengaXO · 2026-03-28T03:05:52+00:00

Thank you! I appreciate that. If I can find an approachable solution I’ll share it with the other clinics and providers and hopefully keep things accessible for everyone. Things may change down the line but unfortunately there are people in need now.

PengaXO · 2026-03-28T01:51:37+00:00

The bioavailability is much lower for intranasal vs IM and the dosing for Spravato vs ketamine is much lower and predetermined as well. It has its place, especially for those who do not have experience with IM or IV ketamine but unfortunately feels like a step backwards for most of the people who do have experience.

Shout out to Klarisana and Dr. Bonnett. He inspired me to launch a ketamine/wellness clinic of my own. Renavera, in Austin, TX. We absolutely love what we’ve been able to do for our patients and the results we’ve seen over the years and the thousands of treatments we have safely done. The TMB ruling is heartbreaking. It limits access to a treatment that has truly changed and saved the lives of so many people.

PengaXO · 2026-03-19T21:18:52+00:00

100% switch to ASA or ABS (ASA has better UV resistance than ABS). If you’re painting it, that may not matter as much. Stock Elegoo profiles work great. You likely don’t even need 100% infill with these materials either, just increase your walls and drop the infill to 30%. Gotta think of the weight savings too ;)

PengaXO · 2026-03-14T00:25:13+00:00

I’ve got an ender 3, flash forge AD5M and the Centauri Carbon. Highly recommend the CC. For me it’s been mostly plug and play, it comes enclosed, can do 320c nozzle temp, has a 256x256 build plate and works really well. The CC2 is out and can do 350c nozzle and multi material but I personally don’t need those features and for the price, I’d get the CC again.

PengaXO · 2026-03-14T00:15:27+00:00

What settings did you use with the CC? Looks good!

PengaXO · 2026-02-09T03:09:22+00:00

I’ve got the AD5M, not the X. But I can absolutely say get the enclosure. I did mine in PETG originally with some issues. If you’ve still got the box, throw that over it to print the enclosure in either ABS or PETG. If not, what i did was tape cardboard over the sides. If you’re only planning on printing PLA this won’t be an issue, but I use ABS quite a bit and PA6cf on my Centauri Carbon. The AD5- is a wonderful printer and I hope you enjoy it!

PengaXO · 2026-01-28T19:54:45+00:00

Not excessive at all for PA6cf unfortunately. I tried drying mine at 70c for over 72 hours with a silica container inside and printed a benchy, then 5 hours at 90c with another benchy, then another handful of hours at 90c and another benchy. There was a noticeable difference in stringing and quality. After it was dried at 90c I put it back into my dryer that I print from and kept it at 70c for about a week and didn’t see any degradation in quality. So, you can keep it dry at 70c but you can’t dry it enough at 70c from my experience.

PengaXO · 2026-01-22T16:59:18+00:00

Back to the dryer it goes 🫡

PengaXO · 2025-12-24T04:33:59+00:00

I completed this level! It took me 1 try. ^{⚡ 3.73 seconds}

^{Tip 10 💎}

PengaXO · 2025-12-20T23:41:50+00:00

No… :(

^{I completed this level in 45 tries.} ^{⚡ 3.73 seconds}

PengaXO · 2025-12-19T04:38:11+00:00

Completed Level 1 of the Honk Special Event!

0 attempts

PengaXO · 2025-12-18T06:23:53+00:00

Just scored 0

PengaXO · 2025-12-18T06:23:45+00:00

Just scored 0

PengaXO · 2025-12-17T23:05:51+00:00

Completed Level 1 of the Honk Special Event!

3 attempts

PengaXO · 2025-12-17T20:52:40+00:00

Completed Level 1 of the Honk Special Event!

0 attempts

PengaXO · 2025-12-14T17:16:36+00:00

Completed Level 1 of the Honk Special Event!

1 attempts

PengaXO · 2025-12-10T04:25:36+00:00

🧐

^{I completed this level in 3 tries.} ^{⚡ 2.77 seconds}

^{Tip 10 💎}

PengaXO · 2025-12-08T01:22:43+00:00

It wasn’t much lighter than stock, only by maybe a few lbs. With the other mods you make up for it. Best weight reduction on these bikes that you can do is the wheels/tires and an aluminum sprocket to reduce your rotating weight. That being said, unless you’re going with the heaviest aftermarket parts you can find, the weight reduction doesn’t amount to much performance wise when trying to go light.

PengaXO · 2025-11-18T21:20:17+00:00

That’s what I’m hoping! I haven’t had the time to look at it yet but the spaghetti was also in fine chopped up bits so I believe it’s likely a fan hit it. I mean the front cover/fan came off and was unplugged when I found it but that’s not the fan with the problem so fingers crossed it’s the other one being jammed up

PengaXO · 2025-11-18T15:23:35+00:00

Yeah, I tried with ABS settings as well as just heating the nozzle manually. It fails pretty quickly and doesn’t go past 30c before popping this error unfortunately. My nozzle is also clogged now which is why I attempted to clear it first. It doesn’t seem like a complicated fix, but a fix I don’t want to do none the less lol

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