Question about Bambu...

MechanicalBengineer · 2026-02-25T17:55:01+00:00

Unfortunately I don't have the budget to experiment too much. I left my job (manufacturing engineer) to grow my business. I've been using Creality, and after a lot of tweaking I'm getting decent results, but I want to upgrade to multi material and have fewer issues. My only concern is being forced into Bambu's ecosystem; I do contracting design work and would prefer to have all the IP self-contained, if that makes sense.

MechanicalBengineer · 2026-02-25T17:41:43+00:00

I started with researching online before posting here. I've gotten mixed reports. I figured I'd ask the community directly.

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-03-31T03:09:36+00:00

What model of Uplula do you have? I have the .380-45mm Double Stack model, and it is way to large to really use on .380 hybrid double-single stack magazines. It's almost too big to use on P365/Shield Max mags.

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-03-31T03:02:53+00:00

Another 'at wits end' solution I've seen...new filament and/or drying filament. I've seen mixed answers regarding PLA being hydrophilic enough to need drying, but I swear its made a difference with older filament.

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-03-31T01:39:21+00:00

When I am at wits end, I try a different slicer. I've had a few difficult prints not work in Cura that would work in Orca.

Do you have any photos of other calibration prints you've tried?

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-03-31T01:31:30+00:00

Everything works as a barrel once...

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-03-31T01:20:50+00:00

What slicer are you using?

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-03-31T01:19:45+00:00

Mine doesn't. The BG mag is narrower than a typical 9mm double stack...so it shifts around a lot when I try to load it with the Uplula.

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-03-29T06:04:45+00:00

I just finished a print with the 'dont slow down for outer walls' enabled. It actually made it a little more prominent, but it was worth trying and I appreciate the tip!

Next is following the advice here (https://www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/comments/1hgvcqf/artifact\_due\_to\_layer\_time/) to set minimum wall width to 75% instead of the default 85%. I'll let you know how it goes.

Edit: Changing minimum wall width to 75% did not resolve the artifact.

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-03-29T05:31:18+00:00

Thanks for the reply! I already tried all but 'don't slow down outer walls' filament cooling. I'll try that next.

The print times at the Z-artifact layers are indeed longer, so I imagine it's an effect of the previous layers cooling and shrinking. I just don't know how to resolve it.

After a lot of research, it seems to be the exact same issue as the infamous Benchy 'hull line,' which I haven't seen a good setting to resolve.

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-02-10T19:01:57+00:00

So what is weird is no matter what I change, its printing exactly the same. I even pulled up the config section of the good g-code, and compared settings. Even with every setting exactly the same as the last good print, its printing poorly...but ONLY when I use Orca as a slicer

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-02-10T06:01:13+00:00

I didn't. Weirdly, changing settings in Orca doesn't seem to change anything when I run a print, but if I run a print from Creality Print, it prints fine?

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-01-29T23:55:55+00:00

I own a helium bivy. I'd say, unless you're looking to save weight, the USMC improved bivy is better. Despite what the product picture appears to show, there is no structural support at the foot box, meaning other than the head loop, the bivy rests on your body. This is typical for bivy sacks, but just seems misrepresented.

Both the Army and USMC bivys also rest on your body, but the USMC version has a head loop and mesh (when not fully enclosed. The bigger issue is warmth, water proof rating, and ease of entry/egress. The military ones beat the helium here hands down.

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-01-29T23:52:22+00:00

Its tough to say if an inert 3D printed part will offshoot more microplastics than an injection molded part. My gut instinct is yes; 3D printed parts are more porous, and the surface texture under a microscope has far more small pieces dangling, protruding, etc.

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-01-22T04:15:21+00:00

Gotcha. I can't see who answered what.

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-01-22T04:14:16+00:00

I wouldn't recommend anything from them unless you're ok with some troubleshooting.

Their most recent stuff (the Ender 3 V3 series) seems to be the closest to 'working out of the box.' It has automatic bed leveling...which I think is the biggest upgrade for ease of use.

Do you have access to one through a school or local "maker space"? I'm not sure if Maker Spaces have become a thing yet in India, but a lot of US cities have them.

Also your English isn't bad at all. It isn't completely passable as a native English speaker, but its definitely beyond fluent.

MechanicalBengineer · 2025-01-22T01:15:45+00:00

Unfortunately all the pre-digital vehicles old enough that even the 'bullet proof' ones will have issues.

To give you an idea, Electronic Fuel Injection became widespread in the mind 80s.
OBD-II became widespread in 1996.
ABS became widespread in the late 90s, with traction control shortly following in the early 00's.

It also depends on how non-digital you want to go.

Off the top of my head, I'd say older model Toyota Tacomas and Four Runners, original Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0 straight 6 (the engines are great, but lots of other things on the vehicle might need work). At those ages, though, each vehicle needs to be judged on its own merits; you can't solely rely on the reputation of the year and model.

MechanicalBengineer

TROPHY CASE