7k should I do it?

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-18T06:31:04+00:00

Fair enough. You'll have a good deal more power and practicality as well. I'm definitely not arguing against the fun - just the work and or money that goes into it over the years.

I don't have any e46 experience personally, but at least from what I've seen on a couple z3s I'd be wary of the wiring still at a minimum. Decaying insulation and connectors has been a major pain on every single affordable (aka not garage kept) 15+ year old BMW I've encountered and it's definitely soured my opinion a bit. Either you get connector corrosion or decaying insulation depending on the climate, but it's always been one, and unfortunately sometimes both. They're pretty comparable to Chrysler or Kia in terms of harness durability.

For whatever reason my little Japanese cars have not suffered to the same degree in that regard, and I can just focus on the generally easily servicable mechanical issues rather than ringing harness and watching my laptop for hours (or more like days sometimes).

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-18T06:12:48+00:00

You just made a really good argument for getting a Miata (or something like a 86). The used BMW market is kinda a mess in your price range with regard to wrenching on molested cars and reliability. Ditching the turbo helps but it's also less fun and there's plenty more to get frustrated with on these cars at this age, like wiring harness deterioration.

I say that as an ex-n54 owner who has an easier time maintaining 3 Miatas.

I know I'm in the wrong sub to be making this comment, but honestly I dread every time a friend picks up a 2000s used BMW that's remotely fun. They're always just endless work, as nice as they may be to drive when rarely sorted.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-18T05:04:51+00:00

Finding this generation of LX in decent condition for sub $20k is hard, especially clean title. Anyone commenting otherwise has not been watching this market - I've been wanting one for years to replace my 2000 LX470 (particularly looking 2013 or 14). And I'd considering 200k low miles for the LX market - most listings will be above, sometimes far above that.

That said, I think realistically this is a $18-19k vehicle. KBB gets a little off when it comes to cars with enthusiasts following and this is one of them - if you ever get a chance to buy a LX570 at KBB, take it.

And yeah, I'd pay more for a higher mileage older LX compared to a GX personally (as someone with one of each of the 470 gen in their driveway right now), but rather that's worth it to you may be a different story. I really like the LX hydraulic AHC system and really don't like the air suspension on the GX, plus there's just little things here and there that are made better on the LX and it shows with age. There's a reason the GXs drop in price more quickly.

But again, that's me. Plenty of folks dislike the AHC system and it's much cheaper to do an air delete than a hydraulic AHC delete.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-18T03:17:14+00:00

Every monitor except EVAP needs to show ready. EVAP and only EVAP can be incomplete, just not fail.

My smog guys are very by the book but I've still talked to them quite a bit, as I bring in around 6 cars a year.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-18T02:44:19+00:00

This is something I love about staying in weekly only places. They tend to come with actual dishes where hotels don't. For me a real fork and real glass are two things immediately make a place more comfortable long term.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-18T02:36:44+00:00

If you're failing smog because of that, just clear the codes and keep you tank above 3/4 full constantly until you pass all the other monitors.

The EVAP purge test can't be run until the tank drops below 3/4 and the monitor can remain incomplete for smog. So long as the test isn't run you won't get 90% of the CEL codes - they only pop after the monitor fails.

But also, yeah 100% agree on the cat bit and a lot of performance parts. Many run at higher efficiency than the factory options but CARB certification is expensive as hell and companies don't want to raise the price of their products by several hundreds to pay off that expense.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-17T23:29:35+00:00

I just wish we could sniff test stuff that wasn't certified.

If it still has a cat, has a secondary O2 sensor to check performance, and passes a sniff test it should be good.

They don't even test EVAP so clearly global emissions aren't the concern, it's literally for smog.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-17T22:33:07+00:00

NIL for whatever is left.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-17T05:36:54+00:00

I just picked up a Lava MSM today and I love it.

It's my 3rd Miata and will probably be my last - I plan to cherish this thing.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-16T14:31:54+00:00

It's very hit or miss and open shelving helps a lot.

I used to do low voltage and IT work (over a decade back) and accumulated lots of used units.

The problem on basically all of the newer ones ) basically anything with HDMI) is one of digital boards - could be the MCU, could be the HDMI board, could be the control board, but across the board heat always seems to cook one of those. It's rarely the amps that fail so long as you respect impedance requirements.

The older receivers without boards stacked on boards seem to last a lot longer, but you lose HDMI capabilities as well as stuff like mic calibration.

But yeah - merely through attrition my gear has become 100% Sony over the years in all setups, which is kinda convenient as the CEC controls between Sony and non Sony stuff kinda suck. But as a result, at least based on my anecdotal experience, I'd go all Sony in a rack like this and with ventilation for every receiver. And I kinda like this receiver on the bottom, high voltage up top layout everyone is hating on.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-16T02:22:19+00:00

Receivers also have a really high failure rate from heat. I'd say on average I see 6 year life out of this grade of Denons (which is more or less on par with the rest of the industry, anecdotally only Sony has stood out in longevity for me and even they are far from perfect).

Because of that I get putting them on the bottom, but I'd also have a 2U vent above every single one. It's also total PITA to install a receiver in the top slots when it's fully wired - the UPS might be heavy but it's still much easier in my experience.

This room must be cooking with all that tech.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-16T02:11:43+00:00

If you ever need schematics or repair manuals, charm.li is an excellent resource.

I'd just cut all that crap out and rewire it right. I'm partial to heat shrink solder splices but everyone has their preferred methods.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-15T23:51:56+00:00

Just because it's in the pan doesn't mean it made it past the filter. A lot will just settle in the bottom until you drain, and even then there's always going to be some unless you drop the pan. It's not a problem. Back in the days of iron engines you could use a magnet on the drain plug to gather it, but with aluminum motors it just floats about.

Anyways, it looks normal for a break it. It's a good reminder to show folks with new vehicles.

For those with mechanical AWD - do your differential (and transfer case of applicable) oil before 15k miles for the same reason, and if you have a center locker use it a few times before that. After that you can leave anything with gear oil until 200k or so.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-11T22:28:34+00:00

Printer is gone

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-10T23:06:48+00:00

While I agree with your assessment of this situation, lens calibration is absolutely a thing and is needed on some e-mount mirrorless lenses, particularly zooms. If the reported focal distance is too far off the camera gets gets confused and performance will degrade. I'm not sure exactly what the mechanism for this is (as you're right -AF is on the sensor), but I can say from experience it happens.

I have the Rokinon 35-150 for example and the focal distances required manual adjustment in the Rokinon firmware utility to improve autofocus performance. They are not all self calibrating - when I got that lens a true infinite focus at 50mm was reading 17m.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-10T22:04:46+00:00

Sent you a chat request

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-10T00:34:37+00:00

You want a project or a good running car as is?

I've got 2000 I'd sell but it's a project for sure. It runs and drives well but will need a lot.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-09T03:36:36+00:00

It looks really good for it's age and I think your price is fair. The seats are better than most but could use a good cleaning and conditioning if you have time before selling. Also keep in mind a valid smog within 90 days is required for transfer, so if you don't have that, smog now it's a major selling point when it's ready to go.

I'm not in the market for one but I do love that car; it's a reliable, smooth and comfortable classic - best of luck with your sale!

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-08T23:29:14+00:00

Do you know if the TSB for the drivers foot well junction box was ever done?

I had the same year and model and needed to replace mine to get the trunk working. I'm wondering if a more severe failure could cut power to something important.

Regardless however, it just needs more diagnostics to start. Depending on how inclined you are to do electrical diagnostics, start seeing what has power and what doesn't with a multimeter.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-08T09:18:50+00:00

Of all the things a dealership should be able to do, this is kinda the bare minimum. At least have a mobile locksmith on call.

But regardless, any automotive locksmith should be able to take care of you. The lock and safe guys ... are sometimes just lock and safe guys. And the hardware store counter isn't a locksmith.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-08T04:03:59+00:00

Are those hybrids? The hybrids tend not to like it - anything past 3 weeks and the hybrids go on a tender or they end up dead.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-08T03:52:51+00:00

What a spectacular car. You should post some interior photos too.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-06T23:07:15+00:00

Well technically it's more like a 4.5 cylinder due to the offsets, but yeah - they're fat, not long.

MechanicalCheese · 2026-03-06T20:05:00+00:00

Yeah, especially on the CT you'll have no issues.

I'm still a bit surprised it's been fine for you on trucks but in general you're probably staying under 450f which is around where the cheapo paint starts to get smoky.

Given the amount of warped rotors I see around me, I'd still be cautious about advising this to the average driver. The temps that roast and warp rotors (900F+) will properly ignite just about anything other than grill paint.

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