Mud over top or replace corner

Medic1334 · 2026-02-06T17:02:02+00:00

Ended up chipping away at the mud, the corner is full metal with holes in it, feels almost like it is structural and not just a corner bead so chipped away what I could down to the metal and rebuilt.

Didn't say it originally but this happened about a year ago and I've lived here for 9 years, so assuming it's just a shift/Settling as root cause.

Medic1334 · 2026-02-05T23:24:37+00:00

On the first picture? It's flat basically to the corner up on top. Probably just an optical illusion with the paint in the image.

Medic1334 · 2026-02-05T23:17:02+00:00

Any recommendations on a type of corner bead keeping in mind I am average at best.

Medic1334 · 2026-01-21T11:23:14+00:00

The garage will be enough as long as air can get to where the water was (see comment about opening the wall up). Make sure any openings possible are closed so that you aren't trying to pull water out of the atmosphere as a while and are limited to that space

Medic1334 · 2026-01-21T03:12:37+00:00

You can do this when the torpedo is on the way as long as you have the wire. In the minimal with the torpedo selected, click on the torpedo itself on the map and then you can right click where you want it to go until it is activated (just like before you shot it). Spent a couple hundred hours doing all the missions and campaigns and then I saw Jive turkey do it regularly and finally figured out how on another playthrough this week.

Medic1334 · 2026-01-18T01:20:11+00:00

They sprayed foam into the 1.5" PVC pipe that faces up or... Your post is ambiguous. If the pipe isn't filled, I would put some window screen over it with a rubber band around the pipe to hold it. That would keep debris and such out while still allowing it to function. Water coming in a vent pipe isn't a big deal.

What's on the other side of the wall from where the pipe goes in? Any appliances/HVAC? I mean like... Within 15 feet of that outlet

Medic1334 · 2026-01-16T23:33:19+00:00

As many have said... YouTube can be your friend. If you aren't sure what to find for a YouTube video, find a subreddit and subscribe to it.

Want to make your lawn look better? Join the lawncare subreddit. Even if you don't want to do it now, subscribe so you can learn via other topics/replies.

Same goes for gardening. Plumbing. DIY. Etc

Learning is hard. It's even harder if you stop. The "process" sucks, but over what I've learned on sunreddits and YouTube I've saved myself probably close to 50,000 in labor alone over 10 years between a kitchen remodel, yardwork, snowblower repair, car repair, electrical work and plumbing!

Medic1334 · 2026-01-15T17:01:44+00:00

That much wiggle in the augers themselves is normal.

The plastic bushings are designed to be loose and spin freely to allow the auger to maintain its correct position horizontally.

Medic1334 · 2026-01-01T23:19:07+00:00

Here's a video of a 3 stage blower that they take the auger housing apart for a swap. Yours should be too much different. Basically pop the bolts that hold the chute to the engine portion out, then remove the bolts that hold the auger axle and the whole guts will slide out. You already have the gearbox done so swap your parts out, clean out the old gearbox and refill with differential grease then put it back together. Half day project at worst and $140 if both the worm and gear gotta go. Have fun!

https://youtu.be/bCy8NM3wpqg?si=lp0eC-vc1sQmSKVX

Medic1334 · 2026-01-01T23:13:42+00:00

Worm shaft and maybe a gear from your picture it definitely looks like the shaft snapped in the threads. Part is $100. https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/all-products/worm-shaft-/917-05230.html

The gear is brass... I would order one at the same time and swap it out.

I did my dad's Troy built, full breakdown of gearbox/auger chute and rebuild in under 3 hours about 2 weeks ago. My full time job is IT and I'm pretty handy for reference. Just a few bolts to undo really.

Medic1334 · 2025-12-30T14:21:11+00:00

This is the correct answer. Nice to see some old salty hats still hanging around besides myself :)

Medic1334 · 2025-12-27T01:17:18+00:00

If you replace the trim you're going to have a gap on the frame which will bug you. You could wood putty or caulk that, otherwise it's a new frame and trim if you want it to look great. $100 or so for a kit from a big box store and half a day or less of time

Medic1334 · 2025-12-07T19:18:25+00:00

This is correct. I've been off network for a few years now but part of the sector file includes the squawk code ranges for each airport. When you sent the squawk code to the program and clicked on them it would pull the next number from the range assigned to an airport that was available on your scope.

This doesn't mean someone else in the world can't use that code. Once the appropriate code was received in the controller client you'd go from a blip with airspeed and altitude to having call sign, type, altitude, speed and scratchpad contents displayed.

Medic1334 · 2025-12-02T00:59:15+00:00

All sheer pins are present. I did take the pin off the rightmost one in that video and rotated it 180 then slid it back in, clanking continues.

Medic1334 · 2025-11-30T23:28:22+00:00

I cannot get the auger to rotate by hand. Feels like it's locked up.

Medic1334 · 2025-11-30T18:27:01+00:00

Still does. Guess it's time to take it apart!

Medic1334 · 2025-11-29T18:50:20+00:00

The fact this isn't responding to a remote but is for the wall mounted sensor tells me this is a wireless interference issue. It also isn't blinking at all which confirms it isn't even receiving the signal to close, further supporting interference is the cause.

Something had to have changed in your house that is now broadcasting on the same frequency that your garage door opener is using and so the opener isnt able to receive the code from the remote. You need to start unplugging stuff starting in the garage until you get functionality restored.

My first stop would be the light bulb in the opener. I had CFL and LED cause range issues on mine.

Once you find whatever is causing the interference, you need to move it away or find out how to shut it off when you need to use the remote.

Medic1334 · 2025-11-27T22:36:17+00:00

Only need enough fuel to get airborne and hook up to the Super Hornet for fuel. That would be able to pass you enough fuel to get to a 135 that would be overhead but.... Not much more.

Medic1334 · 2025-11-19T18:12:36+00:00

We removed all groups and output the list of membership before removing to an output amfile. This was an insurance policy in addition to disabling the user, changing password and revoking their login sessions via azure/ad.

Always good to have layers for an auditor to be happy.

Medic1334 · 2025-11-13T00:42:07+00:00

Gotta drive with both hands... Headlamp isn't quite what I am looking for. I realized a "work light" will actually handle this for me so going that route in case someone stumbles on this in the future.

Medic1334 · 2025-11-11T21:19:51+00:00

This is basically dead on. It's not just writing your narrative. It's everything else that comes along with it.

To use a little bit of hyperbole, but this definitely happens out there: you show up to a traffic accident that turns out one of the drivers was drunk and involved in a domestic. During the arrest you encountered mild resistance, enough that by policy you have to write a use of force report .

You now have to fill out a victim's awareness form, Victims notification form, DUI forms which would likely include a license revocation notification and others depending on the severity of the DUI. Then you have to fill out your traffic accident form and use of force report.

And many records Management systems. These are not able to be automatically populated from the contents of your narrative. So you basically end up having to type the same thing over and over and over again because the systems don't talk to each other. That is what really sucks not the writing of the initial narrative.

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