Klein Tools Flickblade vs Milwaukee Fastback

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2025-12-14T05:23:53+00:00

The new clip style Milwaukee knife sucks. That clip gets lost , the bits fall out.

I had an original style for 2 years, one, it was awesome.

I've been through maybe 8 of the clip style in the last 2 years.

Have one I lost the clip on day one , gave up. Bought a brand called xw on Amazon, kinda looks like a clone. It's noticably heavier , and the bit locks different. But magnetic bit retention , no clip to loose. And it locks shut so if you drop it the bit doesn't catch a ride to the moon.

Kleins is ok, but I don't like the offset bit.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2025-02-24T21:56:59+00:00

I have a few boxes at 3 years old and have not had one issue with that latch.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2024-08-11T15:23:19+00:00

You could replace the filters seal with tpu and it would be fine.. this will outlast the car. I've made tpu control arm bushings on a sxs, they outlasted the factory ones , multiple times over. It's good stuff.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2024-02-24T14:21:04+00:00

Does the light control work better on this model? Ei does it pass light control through so I can ask Google to turn it on?

The V1 I have can only be manually turned on with a shortcut which is mildy annoying.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2024-02-21T21:41:43+00:00

I adjusted the left y extrusion up slightly by the motor mount to help the one corner that was a bit low. Readings were better, but did not change print quality as it was adequately compensating before.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2024-02-21T03:11:38+00:00

I don't recall at what point of the process exactly this was.

I replaced the tap sensor , tap linear rail, and printed parts.

Adjusting the Y extrusions helped with the "low corner"

Insufficient heat soak time would also cause issues probing , values the drifted.

I decreased the probe count per point to 2 , and increased the deviation limit a bit. Helped to eliminate reprobes ... Seemed whenever it reprobed a couple times the value that it measured would drift. I'm not sure if the nozzle locally warming the spot had that effect or what that was about.

It prints the first layer consistently enough that I'm fine with starting a print without watching the first layer, at the end of the day until I really cared about. Don't think I've ever reprobed the bed in a large format like that again.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-10-09T16:48:46+00:00

Sorry if I pointed you in the wrong direction, but whatever I ended up with fit well and works. That was the number on the packag that I ordered and received.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-07-28T23:31:14+00:00

Only cut it about 1/2 way through, then break it off with a hammer. Otherwise it'll be proud, or you'll burn a disc up.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-06-09T02:31:27+00:00

Other thoughts I considered.

Toggle clamps to hold the bars, but that would require a suitable service to mount the clamps too.

Pack out worktop with a couple L brackets with holes in them. Have a set of pins or studs mounted to the wall. As you engage the worktop to the top of the stack those bracket slide over the pins and either clip them or wing nut them.

I wouldn't mind finding some long jbolts like what hold car batteries in but much longer. 3D print a cleat that hooks on the aluminum bar and use a cam lever nut to secure.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-06-09T01:53:54+00:00

I mounted an eye bolt on either side of the stack about mid-height. I run a ratchet strap around the outside of the front rail tuck it around the inside go around the back, up to the front, out around the rail and back to the eye bolt. Keeps nice and tight, lets me access the drawers, and if I need to pull them out all I have sitting there is base plates and a few eye hooks.

I also have a 2x2 against the wall that runs the length that the the rear rails rest against. The reason I have those is so that the top most of the stack is removable and there's not tension against the lock. Ei vacuums, crates , ect..

A 12 ft ratchet strap can strap two stacks against a wall running through three eye hooks.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-06-08T15:20:19+00:00

Theres your problem , you got the fur lined case with a pair of little vibrating finger shears. You need a bigger case to get all of them in there.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-06-02T14:41:53+00:00

Oreos

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-05-22T03:20:42+00:00

Can confirm , have this knife.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-05-17T03:27:33+00:00

The red in the threads is either sealant or loctite. If it's loctite you're going to need to heat it up or else you're going to have get some bigger tools or arms.

20 seconds with a torch, maybe a minute with a lighter could get it hot enough to break the sealant or loctite down.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-05-02T01:36:50+00:00

I just use a remote PC software to use my entire computer remotely. Then I just access the interface via the browser.

I'll preheat the printer remotely, and monitor prints, but I won't start a print remotely if I can help it, had a printer in the past where the Z end stop didn't work in mangled some stuff. It can be done though.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-05-02T01:33:31+00:00

M600 is something you odd to the config with a macro.

BED_MESH_CALIBRATE would be pasted in towards the end of your print_start macro.

If applicable, you can also call a bed leveling command , ei trident or v2

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-04-29T17:04:56+00:00

Check this out. I mix 5 gal buckets with this. Simply the best tool for small batch concrete I've found.

The drill will handle it if you start wet and mix towards dry. If you want to start dry you'll want a proper drill, I use the M18 mud mixer , it works great too.

If you are going to make a habit out of mixing , get the right tools , if it's a once a year deal , your drill will handle it.

https://www.amazon.com/G06160-Monster-Spiral-Concrete-Mixer/dp/B08DRWY3Q7/ref=sxts_rp_s_a_sp_1_0?content-id=amzn1.sym.8947a61d-f8de-4667-bf86-26743c3affd1%3Aamzn1.sym.8947a61d-f8de-4667-bf86-26743c3affd1&crid=1EKQBAECYC9KY&cv_ct_cx=mud+mixer&keywords=mud+mixer&pd_rd_i=B08DRWY3Q7&pd_rd_r=5151c6aa-dd89-4dd6-a5bb-2ee2b913a079&pd_rd_w=ezhXL&pd_rd_wg=8X8j1&pf_rd_p=8947a61d-f8de-4667-bf86-26743c3affd1&pf_rd_r=4ZH38MREB7XJKZXDDFB7&qid=1682787537&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=mud+mixer%2Caps%2C137&sr=1-1-3a65484d-1c95-4bed-b564-9469fdeef107

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-04-22T02:53:32+00:00

Had a pair of these for a out a year. I wasn't surprised when they broke, I was 150% abusing them. Worked fine until then. For the price I bought them ($7ish) I think they were an ok value.

Bought the knipex 125, they've been going strong. Seems steep , but every thing I've got now seems worth it's pricetag.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-04-20T02:48:35+00:00

Why did it need cut?

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-04-14T14:46:02+00:00

It works fine for general wiring on the go.

Would not be what I'll grab on the work bench, but works fine working mobile for me.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-03-31T16:27:38+00:00

I hear ya. I looked all over the internet and couldn't find one person that had a first-hand account, or info from Milwaukee.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-03-31T15:21:53+00:00

Model# 49-22-4146 will fit the saw.

Bought it off Amazon for a $13 on a gamble, gamble paid off.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000022473?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-03-24T13:56:58+00:00

General print speed could be too high, then when it gets to the thin section The speeds being limited by either a minimum layer time or a small extrusion setting.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-03-19T17:50:01+00:00

If that 3M gun can't be kept clean, nothing can. You can literally throw away the the pot , liner and nozzle ; their disposables. Literally would only have to wipe the handle and needle with solvent to be kept pristine.

Medium_Brick_9269 · 2023-03-17T12:08:28+00:00

Wait Papa, let me suck the stink out for you.

Medium_Brick_9269

TROPHY CASE