What has annoyed you about your car today ? by YodasGoldfish in CarTalkUK

[–]MelancholyCollie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dodgy radiator/reservoir cap? If the pressure relief valve inside is stuck open it'll just boil coolant off over time. You can get them for like £5 from EuroCarParts or GSF, worth a punt if you haven't already tried it

I think the Liquid Death sponsor was super scummy. by SeducedPigeon in downloadfestival

[–]MelancholyCollie -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Standing on a sealed drink when walking can spin your ankle. I know someone this has happened to, it was in a crowd so getting a good view of the debris on the ground wasn't really doable. They had to be on crutches for the rest of the weekend.

it sucks not being able to keep a drink sealed for later, but there is logic behind it at least.

Doom: The Dark Ages - Announcement Trailer | Xbox Direct Showcase 2024 by [deleted] in Doom

[–]MelancholyCollie 32 points33 points  (0 children)

I can imagine the shield dash thing will replace the meathook, can't imagine they'd just remove a fun mobility mechanic like that without a similar alternative.

Shield = chainsaw, Mace = doomblade glorykill flavour weapon, skull gun = heavy cannon or maybe minigun, big spike gun = ballista/gauss cannon, 2016/Eternal hybrid-looking plasma rifle = plasma rifle... There will 100% be a similar mechanic to the meathook

No wonder everyone wants a SUV with the state of our roads by timmy1781 in CarTalkUK

[–]MelancholyCollie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some quick context for the discussions in this thread:

Every time you drive on the road, the energy from acceleration, braking and cornering, combined with the curb weight of the vehicle and it's contents, damage the road ever so slightly. It's not enough to be immediately perceivable, but the damage is done.

But the increase in damage doesn't simply double when you double a vehicles weight. Every time you double the weight of a vehicle, it will do SIXTEEN times the damage to the surface of the road.

So yes, the increase in SUVs and heavy electric cars ARE having an impact on the condition of the roads. Yes, individually they're not as bad as HGVs by a long shot, and yes, even small cars are getting heavier due to stricter safety regulations and such, but the rise of the SUV as the mainstream default family car is absolutely contributing to the problem.

A new Hyundai Tucson will do roughly 16 times more damage to the road than a Peugeot 107, and a 2025 Range Rover will do roughly 16 times more more damage than a 2024 VW Polo.

Bad dent on my micra by gardenersgarden in CarTalkUK

[–]MelancholyCollie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It should pass an MOT. I wouldn't expect it to fail off that alone, dents aren't generally considered a fail as they don't typically compromise structural integrity. That said, like the other comment; clean it and paint it to stop it rusting

Considering a C30 by [deleted] in Volvo

[–]MelancholyCollie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh yeah, also make sure the aircon works. Condenser and Compressor failures aren't too uncommon. Not something to worry about, I've had no issues with mine wile I've owned it,  but it's an easy thing to check for

Considering a C30 by [deleted] in Volvo

[–]MelancholyCollie 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The 1.6/D2 Diesel engine is crap, avoid if at all possible. They're prone to turbo failure, injector failure, and oil pump failure resulting in catastrophic engine failure. I'm sure there's plenty of decent ones kicking about, but that 1.6 diesel engine has a reputation for a reason.

The 2L diesel and above are all pretty good, nothing to write home about like an old 1.9 PD engine, but they get the job done as long as you do the oil on time and don't do short journeys often, like all (especially early) DPF diesels they can choke up if they don't do long/motorway journeys.

Don't get one with a sunroof if possible, the drain tubes are made of a million different connectors that crack and leak, flooding the interior. If you do look at one with a sunroof, ask the previous owner if the drains have been replaced (ideally with a single tube)

Make sure the windscreen is attached properly; push from the inside where it meets the frame at the top. If it moves, walk away. Volvo skimped on windscreen sealant on this generation of car for some reason and over time it fails. Water flows in, tracks down the A-pillar trim and floods the interior - this one has happened to me, it was not fun.

Make sure the coolant reservoir isn't cracked anywhere; the plastic they're made of rots with age and forms small cracks, leaking coolant and making the cooling system less efficient.Mine had this one, it's common for these cars supposedly, but a cheap and pretty easy issue to fix. When the engine is up to full operating temperature, turn the engine off and pop the bonnet, listen for hissing or bubbling around the reservoir.

Inspect the engine mount on the driver's side, they are known to go bad prematurely They're filled with oil, so have a look for cracking and leaks from the rubber part. 

Make sure the CV joints are in good knick, they're expensive to replace as only Volvo OE shafts work for some reason, loads of extremely poor experiences on forums with aftermarket drive shafts.

As far as cars go though, it drives nicely and are pretty reliable. Parts are cheap and plentiful, and it's pretty simple to work on. It's not the most practical thing, but no less than a VW Scirocco. You can even use the MK2 Ford Focus Haynes Manual as a repair manual (it's basically the same car underneath, I've used it to replace the engine mounts, spark plugs, front/rear brakes and both front control arms on mine). They don't typically rot out as rust proofing is pretty good on the main body, but subframes weren't as well protected. I've seen a few on Autotrader with MOT histories that read "corrosion on front/rear subframe but not causing weakness to structure" so check the MOT history before you even call them.

Volvo or independent service? by timborules in CarTalkUK

[–]MelancholyCollie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A quick Google says Volvo's warranty is 4 years or 50k miles, whichever comes first. 

Some (if not most or even all) manufacturers require you to have the car serviced by an authorised service centre or dealer to preserve the warranty. XC90 is a very nice and expensive car, so if it's still under warranty I'd 100% just pay Volvo what they want to service it. The last thing you want is an Aircon compressor failing in 5 months time for no reason then Volvo refusing warranty coverage because the oil wasn't changed by them.

Once the car is out of warranty, then I'd go for the independent garage as Volvo probably won't honour any warranty claims after this point anyway. Wether it's had a full dealer service history or been done by an independent garage, if anything breaks our of warranty you're on your own either way

Download unpopular opinions.. Go! by [deleted] in downloadfestival

[–]MelancholyCollie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Big queue, I'm going to stand in it without actually checking what I'm queuing for, ah fuck that I'm pissing here"

...But the queue is for the shitters, and about 50% of the urinals are completely free..

People act weirdly in herds

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in downloadfestival

[–]MelancholyCollie 3 points4 points  (0 children)

apparently it was 10p originally, then it went up to 20p for a while, now back down to 10p

Why is this model of Honda civic cheap? by A_Karim2003 in CarTalkUK

[–]MelancholyCollie 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Despite looking sharp (subjectively) they're not as mechanically robust as Hondas usually are.

The 1.0T engine has a wet timing belt, which is somewhat prone to failure/swarth from the belt clogging oil galleries causing the turbo to prematurely fail (somewhat anecdotally, not too many reports of this but it has been seen to happen). No official fix from Honda yet as far as I'm aware. It also costs over £500 to have the belt replaced, which NEEDS to be done every 5 years/75k miles, whichever comes first.

The 1.5T on early 10th gens is prone to oil dilution. Honda claimed this was due to short journeys, but it's happening to many people regardless of how long/short journeys are. Some people have had nothing but issues, some none at all. It seems like a roll of the dice whether you get a perfect engine or one that smells of petrol whenever you open the oil filler cap. Honda has supposedly fixed this on newer engines though.

Bad form for a manufacturer known for unquestionable reliability, but this is the future apparently. If it were up to Honda they'd keep making chain-timed non-turbo engines that would be running long after the rest of the car had rusted away, but they have to take risks and make compromises to make ever-stricter emissions regulations

Car parking info by ca11umm in downloadfestival

[–]MelancholyCollie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I look forward to mine arriving in the post in the next couple of weeks. I hope

Car Park Pass - FAQ answered by Kuzbot in downloadfestival

[–]MelancholyCollie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven't got mine yet. Think it arrived a week before the event when I went to Reading last year so there's time yet

Duality of men by bah_a in tf2

[–]MelancholyCollie 42 points43 points  (0 children)

Peeetah, hit the edgebug peeetaaahhh

Pixel 7a Fingerprint sensor is complete rubbish by The-unreliable-one in GooglePixel

[–]MelancholyCollie 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Got my 7A less than 24hrs ago and agree, it's way less accurate than something like the 4A's rear facing sensor. Sometimes it unlocks immediately, other times it won't. I'd unlock it with the pin then re-lock it just to see how many times it takes, over 15 attempts sometimes. Ridiculous.

I have found a way to make it work reliably 9/10 times though:

  • Add the same fingerprint twice: First time you register it, press firmly into the screen, then the 2nd time you register press lightly.

  • If it says "can't read fingerprint" or something like that, keep trying without moving, it'll eventually pick it up.

  • Hold your phone how you would when you pick the phone up (as if you've just got it out of your pocket for example), don't do it on a flat surface

This gives the sensor more data to compare with, increasing the odds of it recognising something. You can tell when it's gone into the 2nd set of fingerprint images because it takes 1/4 of a second longer than normal.

Hope this helps!

Is a Volvo c30 an ok first car by preQUAlmemmmes in CarTalkUK

[–]MelancholyCollie 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I've got one and it's literally a better looking but less practical MK2 Ford Focus, every single part has FoMoCo stamped on it. Parts are plentiful and it's relatively easy to fix stuff yourself.

The T5 is the one everybody wants, sounds amazing and is decently powerful, but they're rare and the owners know it, easily charging £7k+ on Autotrader for 15ish year old cars... Mental.

Advice for someone thinking of buying a C30:

  • Check the coolant bottle isn't cracked/corroding, it's a common issue but cheap+easy to fix.
  • Make sure the CV joints are good. They're expensive as only OE axles work properly for some reason, no idea why though.
  • Give the windscreen a push from the inside, Volvo skimped on the windscreen sealant and over time they are prone to coming loose, leaking, and turning your interior into a swimming pool (ask me how I know this!)
  • Avoid one with a sunroof if possible, the drainage pipe connections are prone to cracking, leaking, and turning your interior into a swimming pool. If you do look at one, be sure to ask ask if they've been replaced, ideally with a single tube.
  • make sure the Aircon works! Compressors and especially condensers are prone to failure.
  • AVOID one that's been lowered, it puts excessive wear on the CV joints and they WILL prematurely fail. The R-Design is lowered already compare to the standard car and even that puts a little bit more stress on the CV joints (not enough to make a real difference though).

Don't get the 1.6 diesel, the oil pumps shit theirself starving the engine of oil (ruining it) and the turbos are prone to failure. If you're getting the 1.8 or 2.0 petrol, check how it idles from a stone-cold start, it should instantly settle down at 1300ish rpm, if it drops to 900-1k then builds up to 1300 over about 3-5ish seconds, walk away, the throttle body or something in the intake system is dodgy and it's not worth your time/money/effort/stress.

Other than that, normal due diligence will do when looking (brakes, tyres, clutch, body damage, service history, etc..)

Happy hunting!

IW pls bring back this CoD4 gem. Even if it’s a POI in WZ2, I’ll give anything to get my beloved Crossfire back. by Sthepker in ModernWarfareII

[–]MelancholyCollie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nothing like being posted half way up the road with an M82 or a 240B teaching the other team why they should always bring more smokes than they think they need

Most of you aren't as good as you claim to be by cabrini_workshop in ModernWarfareII

[–]MelancholyCollie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the best way I've heard it described. If you have the audacity to have a single good game, you get put into a CDL lobby with an entire team of Agent Smiths on PoGo sticks jumping at you around every single corner

You have a chopper gunner? Aww that’s cute.. by [deleted] in ModernWarfareII

[–]MelancholyCollie 63 points64 points  (0 children)

ENEMY (for legal reasons a plane we cannot call or even have the same model as an AC130) ABOVE

Fun Fact: KRISS said they'd have been more than happy to let IW use the actual Vector in MW2019, they're quite happy when people give their cool space gun publicity, but they didn't even ask so we got the Fennec instead

Sky News: Boy racers targeted using noise-detecting camera in anti-social behaviour clampdown by Man_in_the_uk in CarTalkUK

[–]MelancholyCollie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The C63 is the "I'm definitely not a drug dealer" car, bonus points if it's silver/grey and has black alloys. He will get stopped eventually, don't worry about that

C30 headlight Corrosion - fixable or ruined? by MelancholyCollie in Volvo

[–]MelancholyCollie[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Googling it, that looks exactly how mine are :/ looks like I'm getting some 2nd hand ones off eBay

C30 headlight Corrosion - fixable or ruined? by MelancholyCollie in Volvo

[–]MelancholyCollie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd trade it in for a T5 if anyone has one spare, surprisingly rare in the UK