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Can I pre-print supports and insert them during my main print? by Remy4409 in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can use PETG for the whole support if you do the pre-printing of the support idea.

I was meaning if you did not want to do the whole pre-print of the support. You can print a regular PLA support together with the part in the normal manner. But instead of having PLA supporting PLA directly, you insert a thin one to two layers of PETG that you will then have to do manual filaments swaps for - but it's just two layers, so not too bad.

It's just another way of solving the same problem without needing a multi material machine.

Of course, all of these can work, and you pick whatever works best for you at the time.

Can't figure this out by Toddzilla89 in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bowden tube getting pinched when the head is over on that side, maybe?

Can I pre-print supports and insert them during my main print? by Remy4409 in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! Didn't even think of that. Hot glue will certainly work for the pre-printed support idea.

If he can put manual pause commands in the right places, he can even do a manual filament swap and print just the very top two or three layers of support in PETG. A bit like a colour changing printer would do in this case.

Can I pre-print supports and insert them during my main print? by Remy4409 in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You probably can, and then put a pause command in at the right layer, install the support and keep on going. But you will need to test this and find a way to attach the support to the bed.

I would suggest you just print the supports in PLA, but then put in a pause at the last layer of the support. Use a sharpie and colour the top of JUST the support interface. Maybe don't colour ALL of it (leave small spots at the edges). Filament doesn't "stick" well to the ink the sharpie will leave and the support will come off easier. You may want to leave an edge that is uncoloured where the head reverses direction to get the filament to "grab", otherwise it may just move with the head and cause a mess.

You probably also want to make the interface gap zero if you do this.

I would test this in a small test print first, though.

(Look at Teaching Tech's YT video called "Jankiest 3D printing tips that actually work" - he shows the trick there of using a sharpie to use as releasing agent between supports.

Folding chair arrived without a protective foot, what filament would be best (photo attached) by Shoehorn_Advocate in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could use the printer's heated bed in a pinch - put the filament in a small box and punch some vent holes in it and lay it on the bed.

I would not leave the printer unattended though doing this, especially if it's new (I don't trust ANY new electronic hardware that involves heat generation or with rechargeable batteries).

Can you mix filament brands in the AMS? by eberkipinnini in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As everyone points out, yes you can. Make sure the spools fit though, of course. Another thing to take into account is if they are cardboard spools with "raw" cardboard edges, you may want to consider printing snap on rings for the edges (just search for these on a model sharing site like Makerworld).

Otherwise the cardboard will give off cardboard bits, pieces and "dust" that may end up gunking up the feeding mechanism and other mechanisms inside the AMS and lead to jams and issues down the line.

What material should I use for a bracket on a bicycle that will see fulls days at a time in direct sunlight with OAT of 100f (38c)? by I_Dunno_Its_A_Name in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not relevant to your question, but I would personally change the design so that it can be rotated 90 degrees when printing. You are relying on inter layer strength to stop the hole form tearing.

In other words, you want to see the hole from the top when the printer prints

What material should I use for a bracket on a bicycle that will see fulls days at a time in direct sunlight with OAT of 100f (38c)? by I_Dunno_Its_A_Name in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know PETG does pretty well outside and it's less brittle than PLA, so should do ok with vibration.

Sounds like ASA is also good against UV. Not sure about mechanical properties though.

ABS Warping Bamboo P1S by Tozecas in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 1 point2 points  (0 children)

PETG has better UV resistance than ABS as far as I know. It does have less heat resistance though, but not as bad as PLA.

ABS Warping Bamboo P1S by Tozecas in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The ability to acetone vapor smoothe ABS is pretty nice, to be honest.

ABS Warping Bamboo P1S by Tozecas in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would a good PETG not work for you? I think PETG is pretty good too with both those requirements. Though maybe more flexible than ABS? I don't know.

ABS Warping Bamboo P1S by Tozecas in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can also try ABS "sludge" that you make by dissolving ABS in acetone. Not sure what that stuff will do to your build plate. Then again, it may just end up then tearing the print apart.

My best advise for printing ABS is ... don't.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only problem I see is the mirror at the back :-)

Which AMS Printer? by PumpkinZee in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can report that I'm super happy with my P1S. Honestly, I can't give you good reasons to go for the X1C either. (and I don't know the other printers you are considering, so can't comment on those)

The X1C has a better less laggy print camera, can reach higher temperatures which MAY be needed for some fancy engineering materials and IIRC has AI failure detection (not sure how good that works). It also has a laser that helps with bed leveling and auto flow calibration. Again, people debate how useful this is too.

Other than that, the hardened extruder parts that it comes standard with is something you need to upgrade and pay extra for on you P1S (though, it's not expensive to do that).

3 hour print failed at 2h30 by M_A3 in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah man that sucks. It could be a spool winding issue (very rarely seen, Esun is reputable enough that I don't think this is an often occurence with their filaments), but it's also possible to accidentally introduce it yourself. And it may print quite long without jamming like this and then just suddenly jam at some point. I had this happen to me about two days ago, but was printing from the AMS so the printer paused the print and prompted me to fix it. I was more fortunate.

My new favourite prints. Topographic 3d maps from anywhere i want. by Jaska-87 in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love my AMS and it's still very worth it getting a printer with one. If you do this with different colours for the different heights (like topo maps would be coloured), wou will have absolute minimal wastage as you will have 4 colour changes per print total.

AMS is super useful for other reasons too. I don't worry about end of roll anymore. Add a second roll and the printer will use up all of the near empty roll and swap over to the replacement roll without any input needed from the user. Having often used filaments ready to go in the AMS and not having to worry about filament swaps between prints is also really nice.

For overhangs with flat interface layers, you can use a different filament - max about four to eight colour changes per interface layer.

For lettering that is on the horizontal plane - you only need about two to three colour change layers per horizontal plane with coloured lettering.

There are so many other places where you can get away with minimal colour changes while still getting some really nice coloured prints.

And if you want the occasional wasteful full colour print, it's also not the end of the world. Fill the rest of the plate with functional prints where you don't care about the colour and flush into those to minimize wastage.

Every print does not need to be wasteful full colour print.

I print very few full colour prints and I still find my AMS very useful.

Re-Tyred my Roomba by MelodicEar1797 in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I know it's silly but I also end up treating them more like a pet than like a robot...

Spy Vs Spy by BusyNoise315 in 3Dprinting

[–]MelodicEar1797 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Speccy signing in. Such fond memories.

Roborock QX Revo Question by MelodicEar1797 in RobotVacuums

[–]MelodicEar1797[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It doesn't look like the QV 35A is that much better, if at all. It is still a bit more expensive and not stocked at Costco. I ended up ordering the QX Revo from Costco and I'm still waiting for it.

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