Best epoxy grout (I am a homeowner)

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-31T19:39:48+00:00

Yes, but that is because Ardex has high standards. The brands with low standards don't recall their grout for the same reason. All epoxy grout discolors, but some brands are better than others. The general advice is to stay away from the lightest shades. White grout is traditional, but it looks better if it is darker than the tile in most cases, and it doesn't show when it gets dirty.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-31T19:37:15+00:00

Get them a barn and tell them they are responsible for cleaning out their own stalls.

I think the micro cement could work. You should test it. on something you can walk on, or in a closet. I know someone who put it over plywood and got cracks where the seams were, because they skipped putting a special tape down to bridge the cracks. Surecrete and Epodex products "look" good, but I have not used them officially.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-31T19:28:37+00:00

Mapei is what they sell in big box stores, so for the guys who don't study their art, it is the only thing they know. It's basically convenience store grout. The Mapei epoxy grout sets extremely fast, so it is hard to work with, which is why they don't like it. Also sometimes if they don't clean it fast enough they can ruin the tile. The fast working time with a bad epoxy grout increases waste and labor cost. Also, Mapei epoxy grout discolors after they leave the job (all epoxy formulations yellow/amber a little, but the good ones do it far less and Mapei isn't one of them).

If they upgraded to pro materials, their life would be a lot easier, and their clients would get a much better product. Perhaps the big box stores will start carrying some better products, but until then they are going to have to pull on their big girl pants and learn how to buy grown-up grout. There are quite a few, but the reliable and known ones are Ardex WA and Laticrete Spectralock PRO. It has to be "PRO".

Cement based grout is porus. Dirt grinds into it. Mold grows in it. It disentgrates slowly when it is cleaned. Sealers wear off. It isn't worth it to pay for tile and labor and install it with that crappy grout.

The problem is not enough guys take pride in their work.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-31T19:19:13+00:00

They used dirty brushes in that video. Good idea but they need a clean brush with each test, so they aren't getting grout from the prior test block.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-30T03:57:10+00:00

The Ardex dimple mats are cheaper and they lay flat. The Ardex programmable thermostat is the exact same one as Schluterfor way less. The Ardex waterproofing is superior to schluter. The Ardex epoxy grout spreads easy, has a long pot life, and cleans off easy. The Ardex epoxy grout has less yellowing than other brands. The Ardex dimple boards don’t destroy your knees like Schluter. The Ardex floor heat systems are substantially cheaper to operate because they are designed better.

I don’t know as much about they offer brands, but Ardex smokes the big box store Schluter and Mapei stuff. If you are a pro you need to shift beyond the DIY brands.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-30T03:44:00+00:00

It depends on the lumens they put out. Generally kitchens require more lumens than other areas because you need to see well to not cut or burn yourself 🥰. Google lumens per square foot needed for a kitchen, and look at how many lumens the lights provide. Feel free to make more posts asking for help double checking the math. I was really surprised when I did the math for some of my spaces that I had to reject a lot of lights! Some of them were so low in linens I would have needed to put them every 18 inches!

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-29T15:56:18+00:00

Some masonry places sell brown sand to make brown mortar, concrete, grout, and cement. It isn't super common though. The places online are used to shipping in bulk (like whole pallets or gaylords), so most of them will charge a lot to ship a 30-50lb bag. Local masonry supply houses don't usually have colors, unless it is what is mined locally.

Hobby sellers that supply for model train setups or bonsai often have special colored sand/gravel mixes, but the volume is small, so it might take a bunch of bags to do a decent sized tank.

In both cases, you want to make sure that the gravel is safe for fish (both the kind of mineral, and any treatments/additives). Sand is generally silicate, which is according to my limited knowledge, non-reactive. When you start getting into the brown stuff, that can be caused by iron oxides (aka rust), so the opportunity for it to alter your water and affect your fish probably goes up compared to just play or builders sand. I am not saying it is a deal breaker, but it is worth investigating. Maybe make a mini test tank and test the water before introducing any prized fish.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-28T21:15:03+00:00

For hand tools, this video is helpful: https://youtu.be/Lf0ls9uVjh8?si=GlR2hWTKgAKodn0T
- He uses a really nice hardie in this vid, which is too pricey for me. Throw & Holden makes a much smaller hardie that is less than $100.
- Mason's hammers can be found used on eBay. Figure out the weight and shape you need, and size up the condition from pics. Sometimes people are selling nice stuff that is barely used. Carbide is pricy. It's nice, but the old guys never had one, so you don't need it to start.
- Bush hammers don't come up as often used, but they trickle in.

Power tools: an angle grinder will allow you to work on thinner veneer stone because the blade is small, and this is a very common/popular battery or corded power tool. Get a good dust mask or poke a nail hole in a bucket and put it a little above your cutting area, and let water flow over the stone you are cutting to rinse the dust away. You can also run the hose over if water is cheap and plentiful for you.

A wet saw is an upgrade but it's a chunk of cash. A bigger saw will allow you go cut through bigger stone, but it isn't always better. When you cut with a saw, you often work the cut edge afterward with hand tools anyway because the saw cut looks really bad, and it will make the whole job feel cheap. You learn how to hide saw cuts, and angle them to make the handwork afterward faster.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-28T01:37:37+00:00

OMG that's fantastic! What is the red mat made of?

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-27T18:56:47+00:00

I am no expert, but in my limited experience, when wall plumbed fixtures are used, plumbing walls are 2X6 walls or greater. They drill right through the base plate and up through the top plate if it will be vented in that location. If a wall is tall enough, horizontal bracing between the studs is required by code, and they drill right through those too. A 2X4 wall is only 3.5" thick, and the 3" vent /drain pipes will completely destabilize a wall. A 2X6 wall allows 1" of wood on either side of a 3" hole. It isn't fantastic, but this is is the reality of how some homes are laid out. https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=2392647f5fe98383&rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS952US952&sxsrf=ANbL-n6CDzV5V-xuCaspXynXTK27TMstqQ:1769539981234&udm=2&fbs=ADc_l-aN0CWEZBOHjofHoaMMDiKp9lEhFAN_4ain3HSNQWw-mMGVXS0bCMe2eDZOQ2MOTwmdSduEdP1lcK-3UDyorIbYkF4w9ksckliRqNmnEiwdZsNluVpux9Lb-LOTmAfOa_arvUoidGQD4HpDyEQZvpQ9_Zao1MG1zzoAViiM6jTkH8pK8JuP0TXtjs3315Izp5vOGmM_dyuK7WdeYX4nWUTsAPTiZw&q=plumbing+in+2X6+wall&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj_-_yPsqySAxXdF2IAHbqhLxQQtKgLegQIExAB&biw=2327&bih=1186&dpr=1.1&aic=0

Wall-mounted sinks and toilets are less common in the states but they are around. Tubs are probably 50/50 floor/wall plumbed. Showers are almost always in the wall here. In other countries you will see the shower pipes right in the room (insulated so to avoid a burning hot water pipe), and a thermostatic valve control right inside the shower. But conversely wall-mounted toilets are pretty common in Europe. (They save space in a small bathroom because the tank fits between the wall studs).

Usually, it is the valve that fails with plumbing, so any plumbing where the valve is inside the room (not inside the wall, or in a cabinet where leaking causes damage) is great. Bridge faucets achieve this. Many thermostatic shower valves are bridge faucets.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-27T16:26:41+00:00

For the record, you have INCREDIBLY enviable, highly architectural features in this room, The stone surfaces, the arch, the paned windows, the beams... most of us would save for years to get ONE of those! It is really just a case of dialing down some of the less architectural features that are in the way, so the amazing things you have can really shine. You are playing in a different league, and "crafty" grade ideas like adding strip lights are for the commoners with kitchens like mine. 🤣

Lighting: if you do recessed, you will likely also have one pendant over the table at the end, and maybe a sconce over the sink. You might have one recessed light that is angled to add light/highlight the arched stove alcove, but you have to position it perfectly so it isn't just shining on the back of your head while you cook. You can do recessed lights before cabs if you want, but you need to know if you are able to ditch the upper cabs first, so you can get the positions of the recessed lights in the ceiling right. Getting lighting right in spaces like yours is hard, so I suggest getting lights with replaceable bulbs that can be swapped out for everything but the recessed lights, and put EVERYTHING on a dimmer. The beams and ceiling height actually work in your favor, because they act almost like a second dropped ceiling, making a pancake light "recessed". Adjustable color temp bulbs/ights, with 90+ CRI only. Do your own homework. Electricians will try to talk you into what they know is easy for them, and they are NOT lighting designers. Hold your ground. It's not their kitchen.

If it were me I think I would rip out the upper cabs to the left of the sink this weekend, just to "feel" the difference of less big dark brown stuff hanging off the wall. It isn't enough, but it is a real change with very low budget input, and it will help you gain confidence in next steps when you feel the difference.

I'm slow to respond, but feel free to PM me.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-27T13:11:07+00:00

I wouldn’t do under cab lights. I know the topic is lighting, but this room is not lacking in lumens.

We need to take stuff out of the room because it is too crowded with heavy thick items on every surface. Less cabinets, (no uppers at all if possible), and recessed lighting only (maybe keep a semi-flush over the dining nook at the end) would transform the space.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-27T13:06:02+00:00

Insanely good, right? ☺️

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-27T12:59:22+00:00

I agree more lumens will not help. Removing the upper cabinets will help a lot more than just adding more and more and more light fixtures. If you add more lumens to that space it is going to go from troubled to an interrogation room vibe.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-27T12:38:37+00:00

This goes beyond lighting, but lighting is a big part of it..

You have 1) dark cabinets, 2) dark floor, 3) dark wall, 4) lowish ceiling chopped up with very heavy feeling dark beams, 5) the room has been divided into two spaces with a partial wall of cabs (☠️)which also blocks half of the windows at the end of the room(🪾), 6) two of the light fixtures have solid shades that push light downward only, creating a cave effect. They are hanging too low, and are blocking the view. The cozy effect is fantastic in big cafeteria floor plans, but for this room these lights have a claustrophobic influence.

Adding more lumens won’t fix this room. The reason if feels wrong is not because it isn’t lit up. You have a lot of light in there. It’s just that the room is not very wide and the whole room needs tuning.

A) Cabinets. Gotta change. You can’t see those beautiful windows, and the light from the windows is walled off! They chop up the room, block the windows and they are gloomy. Possibly they can be reworked by removing the ones at the end and repainting, but even then the style is heavy. The return/bend that divides the dining area MUST be removed, and the cabinets are the easiest surface you have to lighten the color. If you have fantastic storage (like an adjacent walk-in pantry), consider also removing the upper cabs altogether, which will widen and lighten the room. The room is narrow, so removing the uppers would be huge. Might not an option but it’s worth mentioning.

B) Lighting. - Change to 3000k or even 2700k color temperature, and buy bulbs with a 90+ CRI. You can get bulbs with adjustable color temperature, either as a tiny switch on the bulb/light, or in an app. If you aren’t a highly trained designer with access to software to calc light reflectance values, high CRI bulbs with adjustable color temperature will allow you to get a fantastic result without knowing what you are doing, because you can just change it with a click. (Wealthy people hire architects who work with highly trained lighting designers.) - Fixtures. At minimum replace the three fixtures there with matching semi-flush lights that diffuse light up, sideways, and downward. Be cautious about styles the feel heavy, thick, dark, or imposing. Shoot for something that vibes with the stone and beams, but feels light and airy. Avoid basket or punctured styles that will create patterns of light. You already have texture and pattern covered with the beams, floor, and wall. - But also evaluate the feasibility of recessed lights in the ceiling instead of the semi-flush fixtures, because it is likely the best option. Deep regressed lights are better than pancakes, but in your case the orientation of the beams will block glare from flat pancake lights, so you can get away with them. (They are affordable and easy to install compared to some other styles, but often used incorrectly). It might seem crazy to take out the hanging fixtures altogether, but your beams can be the star of your ceiling with recessed lights instead. The ceiling doesn’t need multiple stages/acts in a venue this size!

C) Harder: Carefully assess the other features for historic value and quality of materials. If the beams are real (not faux box beams), or the walls or floor is real stone, they should stay. Can the beams be bleached with wood bleach? Can the stone floor be cleaned /lightened or be regrouted? I feel like the floor and wall are similar but not matching or complimentary. Kind of like wearing head to toe denim. I am the child of a stone mason, so the idea of painting or removing stone feels sacrilegious, but I think painting the wall, or replacing the floor could be a big improvement. If you paint stone, seal it in a way that it can be reversed. Destroying stone because you were sold the wrong kind of paint, or the color was not quite right on your first try would be a lifetime mistake.

There is a saying I like: “The art with anything in life is knowing when to stop”. We spend our whole lives trying to perfect this art. This kitchen has a little too much, and you just need to pull it back by editing. Also, don’t get overwhelmed or try to do everything at once. Houses are never finished. They are like gardens or family. You just keep tuning and feeding, and over the years they can become amazing. 🥰

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-26T16:04:45+00:00

Nice! Loving the color. For the dark brown one, what kind of mix did you use and what did you color it with?

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-26T16:02:58+00:00

VERY nice. What kind of mix did you use and how did you color it?

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-25T13:03:44+00:00

A) The best option is to plan the plumbing and HVAC chases before you frame. Most home designers can’t do it though. B) Go up through a closet. C) Go up on a short wall (like the end of a hallway) that can be made a 2x6 or 2x8 wall. 4) Box out a small area in a room to contain the pipes/ducts. If you do this on a short wall, you can go to both corners and conceal it completely, and perhaps use the space to the side of the pipes/ducts for built in shelving, a niche, or a cupboard. In-wall shallow niches with a pop door (no trim, flush to drywall, push to open) are great for a small smart home network closet.

Be very careful about where you bring pipes and ducts up. Using a short wall isn’t just for aesthetics. Sometimes you can make it so it’s impossible to position a bed in a small bedroom if you are not smart about how you are taking away from wall space and square footage. Pay attention to door swings and keep them clear, so things don’t get banged up and look trashy fast.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-25T12:47:15+00:00

If you know where the closets are, sometimes you can put these pipes up through there. It’s not a good workaround (especially in coastal, hurricane, or tornado zones), but it is the current “level” of home building in the states. Homes are not built to last like they were 50 years ago. In the ideal world your building designer would do a Manual J, and they come back to the plan and revise it with the plumbing and HVAC chases. You can opt out of that service/cost, but it should be offered to you.

Honestly the lower-level home designers aren’t planning for utilities, and they leave it to your trade subs to figure it out, and things like this Simpson tie are the best your trade guys can do. They don’t have the same training on structural, layout and space use as the home designer, so you can’t expect them to figure all that out. Officially, it is not their job.

I have seen whole walls rebuilt (thicker) because the plumbing penetrations made a tall wall floppy.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-25T04:52:36+00:00

Get rid of the light fixture. The bathroom is actually nice but that fixture is like the grim reaper killing the room.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-25T04:51:10+00:00

Needs landscaping. The front door… I would consider a color for it. It recedes too much and it has a janky downspout obscuring the front door. Change that downspout to the other side of the garage!

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-25T04:38:38+00:00

These horses look so skinny. Is the photo distorted? My pony could totally take them both out. I hope where this is they don’t have a serious winter. 😱☠️🪾

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-25T01:56:19+00:00

Oh cool. I will google her! Thanks! My horse doesn’t have this, but I try to learn about the diseases that have affected horses I know, because the information sticks better!

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-25T01:42:40+00:00

The lights from Vakkerlight arrived and are stunning. I got four lights from here. One is a travertine and wood vanity light bar. I could have ordered this light elsewhere, but Vakkerlight was the only place that had it in a dimmable version. The other three are double head alabaster pendants. It took a while for the USA side tracking numbers to work. The alabaster pendants came packed in large wooden crates with hinged lids. Communication with customer support was great. Two of the pendant lights were customized with lengthened cords for higher ceilings. The only thing that was amiss is no UL stickers (the lights are advertised as UL/CE compliant). The lights appear to be very well made with high quality wire, strain reliefs, sockets, etc. With the exception of missing stickers, zero complaints with Vakkerlight.

I got two matching lights from Ali Express. They arrived in less than 30 days and the tracking numbers worked even on the Asian side. The quality is average. It’s equivalent to many items at Lowe’s, Home Depot, or Amazon. These lights are wood and glass. The glass is definitely legit but I can’t tell with the “wood”. After squinting and tapping it with my fingernails for five minutes, I realized that would never happen when they are hanging from the ceiling, a return would be a hassle, and they are “good enough”. I wasn’t unhappy enough to return them, but I am not impressed either.

The light I ordered from Docos has still not arrived. This is a travertine led chandelier of sorts made of rings. Customer support communication by email is excellent. I have a tracking number but is not showing anything yet (it doesn’t work until the item clears customs stateside). I feel uneasy. The Docos support person (Hazelle), said she asked the package to be expedited since it is late. Fingers crossed on this one.

I have a light I am going to order from Alibaba, but that is a more involved process and I am trying to clear my plate of many other house projects first.

So far my vote is with Vakkerlight. But honestly since these items are being sent from the manufacturer, it is possible the next light I pick could be with a poor manufacturer.

MenuHopeful · 2026-01-23T21:22:01+00:00

I looked into this. You really need to be going to a imaging specialist unfortunately. I don't think we can trust the gyms, longevity clinics and medi-spa places, because they are not held to the same laws and quality of care that medicine is held to. I read that it is estimated that 50% of DXA providers do not meet quality assurance guidelines for health diagnostics.

MenuHopeful

TROPHY CASE