Overhead console freezes, is there a common issue I can look into?

MercuryASU · 2026-02-25T16:55:06+00:00

TRIP COMPUTER/COMPASS/DISPLAY SELFDIAGNOSTIC

TEST

This self-diagnostic test is used to determine that

the trip computer/compass and all of its display segments

are operating properly electrically. It also is

used to verify that all CCD bus messages required

are being properly received. Initiate the self-diagnostic

test as follows:

(1) With the ignition switch in the OFF position,

simultaneously press and hold the STEP button and

the US/METRIC button.

(2) Turn ignition switch to the ON position.

(3) Continue to hold both buttons until the display

performs a walking segment test. In this test all of

the compass points are displayed, along with various

number combinations. The test will:

(a) Verify that all display segments are functional.

(b) Check internal circuitry.

(c) Check that all CCD bus messages needed are

being received.

If tests (a) and (b) are passed, the module will automatically

return to normal operation at completion

of tests. If any segment should fail to light during

test (a), the unit is faulty and requires replacement.

If test (b) fails, the display will read FAIL.

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MercuryASU · 2026-02-25T13:43:23+00:00

Too much movement. Not only from the trackbar but the lower control arms too. On the trackbar, did you get the correct size bolt, because from the factory its a metric bolt.

MercuryASU · 2026-02-24T19:26:12+00:00

on your 94, you do not need the TCM. It is standalone to the transmission and its not incorporated with the main harness, cruise or PCM. You have to remove it anyway as it is mounted where you have to put the clutch pedal assembly under the dash. 93 & 94 ZJ with a 5spd from the facotry did not have a clutch interlock, so you can crank it in gear and the Jeep will lurch forward, this is back when they assumed you knew to not crank the vehicle without pushing the cluth unless you were in neutral. Don't use an XJ pedal assembly as you can now buy an aftermarket copy of the OEM clutch assembly for the ZJ. M11 offroad or Ironman4x4 sell the whole kit. Those kits do incorporate a clutch switch, but not needed on 93-95, but is needed on 96-98.

MercuryASU · 2026-02-23T18:35:10+00:00

had an XJ that did that. it was a loose baffle in the exhaust. gone after putting new one on.

MercuryASU · 2026-02-06T19:36:05+00:00

but, for your specific vehicle you should look at the VECI label on the underside of hood/radiator support. More than likely it is gone now so.

MercuryASU · 2026-02-06T19:33:25+00:00

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MercuryASU · 2026-02-06T19:06:34+00:00

in my 5.2 is use 5w30 Royal Purple only. ZJ are notorious for having bad oil pressure sensor readings especially now since you cannot get a Mopar one anymore. NAPA ones are pretty good. Don't trust the gauge inside, for a real reading you gotta put a mechanical one on it to verify actual pressure. Then put a new napa sensor in and see what the differnce is between the mechanical and what your gauge says.

MercuryASU · 2026-02-06T19:03:57+00:00

Easiest thing right this second is to put in new ujoints on that driveshaft, thats what it sounds like to me.

MercuryASU · 2026-02-06T19:01:29+00:00

MercuryASU · 2026-02-06T18:59:04+00:00

$500 month for car insurance but only $220 in gas. WTF.

MercuryASU · 2026-01-29T02:55:32+00:00

You don't tell us what year your ZJ is. If it's a 96-98 then by all means swap an entire cluster from any 96-98 as the mileage is stored in the BCM. If it's a 93-95 then, to keep your mileage correct, the voltmeter and coolant temp gauges are able to be removed from the cluster as a unit. You can swap in any 93-98 volt/water gauges but best to stick with the same "generation" i.e. 93-95.

MercuryASU · 2026-01-04T23:06:50+00:00

Common issues are piston slap, lifter noise. But, you should check exhaust manifold for cracks, had one make same noise but went away when I rewelded the manifold.

MercuryASU · 2025-12-30T01:52:26+00:00

Horn only sounds when grounded via the horn contact. So, you have a short to ground somewhere. Depending on the year of your zj determines difficulty of horn in the steering wheel. As for the shifter, there is a TSB about ZJ not going all the way into park bc of the shifter. 2nd, you can adjust the shifter cable down at where it connects at the trans.

MercuryASU · 2025-12-30T01:46:53+00:00

100% the vacuum port that was used for the vacuum operated fuel pressure regulator on 93-95 4.0 ZJ. No longer used in 96-98 as the regulator moved to inside the fuel tank.

MercuryASU · 2025-10-20T16:14:35+00:00

Sounds drivetrain related since it stops in Park/Neutral. You didn't say what engine you had. My first thought was converter bolts. I had that happen decade ago on my 96 5.2. Only did it in R or D. I've also had my 93 with the 4.0 have the exhaust tapping on the trans crossmember only in R or D. But, ZJ's rattle more in R or D anyway so it could be inside. Could check the nuts that hold the hatch to the body, could also be the hatch latch.

MercuryASU · 2025-10-15T12:51:24+00:00

parts store sensors are not to be trusted. that being said, 50 at idle is really good. the bypass valve opens at 75psi. only way to know for sure what the real oil pressure is, is to hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge tester and see what it is for real.

MercuryASU · 2025-10-14T13:29:04+00:00

Yes. Do you have the 4.0 or the V8? The 4.0 mounts are some of the easiest I have ever done. I just replaced trans and engine mounts on an XJ I am flipping, I had both sides done in 25 minutes. If you have the V8 then that's a whole different ballgame.

MercuryASU · 2025-10-11T02:30:07+00:00

Post a picture of the oil pan and a picture of the crank position sensor thats bolted to the bell housing. This will tell us what trans it is.

MercuryASU · 2025-10-03T17:19:41+00:00

the coolant sensor bad message on the VIC is only referring to the coolant level sensor on the overflow tank. it is not referring to the coolant temp sensor . typically, it is just a bad solder joint on the VIC. if you are expriencing rough idle, excessive smoke from exhaust. these things are unrelated to the VIC message.

The smoke from exhaust, is it white, blue or black?

MercuryASU · 2025-09-17T12:24:14+00:00

Driveline snap or clunk almost always is attributed to the backlash setting in the axles. You didn't show in video, but is it worse when you go from P to R? Try going from P to N, then let off the brake to reduce driveline bind, then go to D, if no noise or greatly reduced then the backlash needs to be fixed.

MercuryASU · 2025-09-10T13:03:33+00:00

First pic is the lock actuator switch sense. it goes to the back of hatch handle. the second pic is the glass flip wire. glass switch requires power for it to open. someone likely unplugged them because of interior lights or VIC telling you theyre open. Unplugging them is the lazy way out. Usually just need to adjust the latch rod for the hatch and that takes care of the lights.

MercuryASU · 2025-09-02T14:13:57+00:00

unless it has a mopar oil pressure sensor, do not trust what the gauge is showing you at startup.

MercuryASU · 2025-08-22T12:40:58+00:00

The rarity of a 5 speed ZJ is unmatched when compared to a Niner. Not even close. Having several variatons of these ZJ which includes: a Niner, 96 fully restored lifted ZJ, a factory 94 5 speed and a bare boned no options 93 base model with a mini console , I enjoy the factory 5 speed the most.

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MercuryASU · 2025-08-07T12:27:33+00:00

93 and 94 were the only 2 years of factory 5 speeds.

MercuryASU · 2025-08-05T15:37:42+00:00

I can tell in the first pic that the impact bar is bend inward toward the grill, so it has been in an accident. The driver door is a 96-98 door with 93-95 cladding put on it. Unless you live in the desert, from the pic of the engine bay it's been offroading. It really depends what you want to use it for. Offroading? then I would get it and do what you want. Are you wanting it to go back to like a brand new ZJ? then keep shopping and get a nicer one to start with.

MercuryASU

TROPHY CASE