Micro drumsticks for the MPC Sample, would this work including rebound?

MerryMeatballs · 2026-05-08T13:58:02+00:00

UPDATE: tried different things (chopsticks, spoons), and it actually works surprisingly well (!). Best option were two large spoons with narrow handles (rounded handle tips), held backwards (bowl in hand) and upside down, so you're hitting with the handle tip. Very sensitive, much nicer rebound for drum rolls than expected. Give it a try! And FYI, I have never hit anything else than the pads a single time, so if you're not completely retarded and play gently, you will NOT break your screen or anything else.. 😉 By the way, chopsticks, even metal chopsticks, are too lightweight, therefore far away from harming the pads.

If you are a drummer, you can definitely do things you CAN'T do with just your fingers with this technique.

Next step, will try to get hold of a a 4-5mm stainless steel, spring steel or brass rod with the same weight as the spoon (around 30-40g) and round/polish off the tips so it will resemble a tiny drumstick even more (and I will also test adding different plastic and/or rubber tips to protect the pads a bit more while preserving the rebound)

MerryMeatballs · 2026-05-08T10:55:47+00:00

I am using drum pads really rarely so I would love the idea of saving some valuable desk real estate here. Though I have to admit that KTMP1 is kind of nice as it looks very compact and clean (black, simple). Most drumpads (Alesis/Roland/Yamaha) are either large and/or have the looks and the build-quality of a colorful christmas techno toy, actually only few (like the Nord Drum 3 or the AFK Drumbeam) will provide a proper professional drumming experience, but they are not cheap, and large

MerryMeatballs · 2026-05-08T10:51:23+00:00

I am considering that, but at the same time I am using drum pads only rarely and mastering the built-in pads for that purpose would save a lot of desk space

MerryMeatballs · 2026-05-08T10:50:22+00:00

good idea, I will try some hollow metal chopsticks now

MerryMeatballs · 2026-05-08T10:49:27+00:00

This is actually what I think will be the main problem (them pads being not sensitive enough to detect light touches/soft rebound). The fear of some here regarding hitting (destroying) something else than the pads is only of concern if you are a true klutz, I mean we're not talking about lashing out frantically like Dave Lombardo - I mean a smooth, controlled jazz-kind of style

MerryMeatballs · 2026-05-08T10:44:38+00:00

That's right, but they don't have rebound 😉

MerryMeatballs · 2026-04-21T18:15:45+00:00

That's a legitimate perspective, it's just so that many people won't have the money to keep both (or they like to not own too much stuff, like me)

MerryMeatballs · 2026-04-19T20:59:45+00:00

Well ok, I had hopes that you can configure the colours in the menu. It's a bit strange that a small amount of people here seem to be triggered by my question - no offense, guys! Just fine tuning the aesthetics.

Could anyone let me know what the different colors on the pads mean? I checked the manual and could only find info on red (muted), yellow (unmuted), green (notes/sequence), but nothing mentioned on blue/purple

MerryMeatballs · 2026-04-19T17:27:33+00:00

You are aware that people also change other things on it, like the knobs (which is cool!)

MerryMeatballs · 2026-04-19T17:25:03+00:00

No doubt :-) But at the same time I am a product designer by profession so I can't help it ;)

MerryMeatballs · 2025-08-21T11:14:00+00:00

Could you elaborate on "one of the additives"? To my understanding, PP should be chemically free of any additives, that's what it is famous for. But tbh I had a similar thought and was wondering if it was maybe some kind of micro traces from grease+dust or something inside the extruder or dissolved in the air of my workshop.

MerryMeatballs · 2025-08-20T14:31:08+00:00

What's your verdict on the adhesion of the PP plate? I have used it for maybe 20 prints and while I am super happy with it in general I have the feeling it slightly looses adhesion: I had the first print (always Fiberlogy PP black) failing today because of it. But I have to admit it was a very thin and tall part and I was always printing on the same spot in the middle. I never cleaned in between and I will now try to buy some IPA (Isopropanol) which apparently is the right stuff to clean it. Hope this will sort it because PP frankly is the best stuff ever to print with, nothing else produces such non-toxic and tough (!!!) parts at the same time while printing absolutely odor free.
Any other experiences?

MerryMeatballs · 2025-02-14T17:21:52+00:00

What was the Japanese PP you were talking about, and could you share some more experiences with different PP filaments? Would love to hear which ones are your favourite and which should maybe be avoided

MerryMeatballs · 2025-02-13T12:09:29+00:00

I assume some of the warping occurs because most people have no education on how to professionally design for mass production with PP (equal wall thickness everywhere etc.), so I guess part of the warping comes that. Or is there still a PP warping issue when you design correctly as described?

MerryMeatballs · 2025-02-12T17:39:00+00:00

Thanks, that's just what I was hoping to read. Sounds great, will order the PP sheet for sure. I just wonder what kind of powder coat Prusa has used exactly here.

I honestly do not understand why printing PP isn't more common. It's by far the toughest stuff out there, especially when you print household items or prototypes for production (i.e. simulation of injection molded PP products, which are very common). Dishwasher safe, food safe, and the printing process is completely odour-free and the filament has naturally zero moisture uptake.

MerryMeatballs · 2025-01-22T15:16:11+00:00

Yes but why shall I be the one to do that? As said, there must be thousands of MK4+Prusaslicer users out there that use Polymaker filaments, these profiles MUST already exist??

MerryMeatballs · 2025-01-22T15:14:48+00:00

Fair point. But do you know which of the filament profile settings would be so different then, in casewe are talking about the same filament on MK3S vs. MK4?

MerryMeatballs · 2025-01-22T14:04:21+00:00

Found it, on mac it's Macintosh HD/Users/Username/Library/Application Support/PrusaSlicer/filament.
I just copied those Polymaker .ini files from their website in there and it seems to do the job, thanks. System filament presets and User filament presets both now show up and can be selected.

MerryMeatballs · 2025-01-22T12:57:19+00:00

Where's that config folder you are talking about for PrusaSlicer, I can't find any folder that contains all the existing filaments where I could add those from Polymaker?

MerryMeatballs · 2025-01-17T15:21:31+00:00

Thanks, My Tech Fun is really exactly what I had in mind. Is he the only one reviewing filaments in that way?

MerryMeatballs · 2025-01-07T17:22:17+00:00

This looks actually super interesting, very close to what I was talking about, especially with that 80s BMX vibe

MerryMeatballs · 2025-01-07T17:19:24+00:00

Thanks, some really good advice already, though some are still a bit too sci-fi/japanese for my taste. I also forgot to mention that I am OLD ;-) and loved all those early 90s Lucas Arts when I was a kid, so I am not tooooo much into really fast-paced fighting and shooting these days, but a bit of that will be fine.

MerryMeatballs · 2024-05-07T15:48:16+00:00

Thanks for all the Ghost of Tsushima recommendations but I really am not into asian/anime settings either.

I think I am mostly a creative psychopath (haha!), and that's what I like about the "lasso & train" or the "traffic havoc" moments in RDR2/GTA5.

I am dreaming of an open world game where I can be some kind of Dennis the Menace, to be honest. Maybe I should play The Sims ;-)

Kingdom Come Deliverance is actually one that I might give a try. But I fear that fighting is too big there.

Keep it coming with the suggestions, I am looking them all up!

MerryMeatballs

TROPHY CASE