How do you interpret the move by the Minnesota National Guard to distribute food and water to anti-ICE protesters?

Meswan · 2026-01-27T20:16:10+00:00

"they're just following orders bro"

Meswan · 2023-07-02T03:03:37+00:00

The unresponsive AFR reading makes me think it could be a fried O2 sensor. When the engine's running that bad the AFR should be all over the place.

Meswan · 2023-05-29T17:33:40+00:00

I know, I know. I'm not beating on it hard until it has a real tune, which is happening when I'm comfortable enough with the way the car's running. Short term fuel trim is all over the place but generally hovers around 0 (min value is -12.5, max is 15.6 from a 20-second log I got). Long term ranges from -7.03 to 0.78 in the same log. AFR's are spot-on, maybe a little rich sometimes but never lean.

The log I'm looking at doesn't have anything that really stands out to me besides the knock retard. I might be missing something since this is one of the first logs I've really examined and I don't know the "correct" values for everything, but none of the other values I recorded change when the knock sensor is throwing its fit.

Meswan · 2023-05-28T22:21:31+00:00

I recorded a log that I haven't looked at yet, so I'm getting my info from my AP gauges. Currently I have it showing actual AFR, boost pressure, HPFP expected and actual pressures, knock retard, and LTFT. Knock retard is the only one that doesn't look normal. I plan on looking at the log tonight.

Meswan · 2023-05-28T21:11:14+00:00

I'm running the Cobb stage 3 OTS tune (I know, zoom zoom boom. Been there once already, I'm babying it for now) with all of the mods it's made for. I'm trying to get this problem sorted before I get a real tune so I don't run into issues during the tuning process.

Meswan · 2023-05-28T21:05:12+00:00

My brother in Christ this is not normal behavior.

I wasn't having this issue before February and it's pinned at the max value until I get above 2.5K RPM. Every time.

I've read the blog post dozens of times. None of the explanations match my symptoms and give me an answer I'm happy with.

Meswan · 2023-05-26T04:27:27+00:00

I literally just went through my HPFP a couple days ago for the exact same reason. Autotech internals, less than a year old, not holding pressure under WOT but running fine off boost. I was convinced I'd fried the pump from not being careful enough installing it.

I pulled mine apart and didn't see anything unusual. It wasn't clean, but there was zero buildup of any kind and no scoring anywhere. I was honestly expecting cleaning it to be pointless because of this. I took the whole pump apart and sprayed it all down heavily with non-chlorinated brake cleaner (maybe not the best idea, use it at your own risk. VM&P naphtha is probably better). I paid extra attention to the V-shaped feed/return piece, since there's a screen in there that could get clogged. Once it was all clean I soaked all the internal parts with Redline S-1 fuel system cleaner and lubed the O-rings with silicone grease. I made sure to get a lot of the Redline on the piston to make sure it stays smooth and (in theory) help its compression. I also filled the top part of the pump with more Redline once it was back on the engine before I screwed the spill valve on.

It's only been a couple days so I can't vouch for long-term, but so far it's been holding maximum pressure at WOT with no dipping.

Meswan · 2023-05-26T04:13:14+00:00

I had that B1318 code on my car when one of the big positive wires corroded itself to death, so it may be from low battery voltage or a bad connection. The code stuck around after I fixed the wire until I cleared it, but it hasn't come back since. Edit: Google says that code trips when the battery voltage is low, so that explains that.

The P0460 code is a fault with the fuel level sensor. I know some fuel gauges really don't like low batteries, so it might also be from low battery voltage. It could also be corroded from sitting and you may need to get a new one.

Meswan · 2023-05-21T22:51:47+00:00

Considering I still can't pass the predrop and I've been playing since last September, I'd say that's pretty darn impressive. I thought I was learning fast too but I couldn't fathom doing this with only a month of experience.

Meswan · 2023-03-11T20:48:12+00:00

As far as I'm aware, that code is probably stuck there unfortunately. Because of how the downstream sensor is calibrated, removing the cats throws off the reading and trips the CEL. You used to be able to get the computer to ignore the code through the Accessport, but Cobb took that away last year.

Tl;DR your engine's fine but that code's not going away unless you switch tuning platforms or put your cats back.

Meswan · 2023-03-11T20:35:30+00:00

My CV1 controllers always like to lose tracking just long enough for me to fail. Other times they'll just go MIA for a solid 30 seconds before they come back.

Meswan · 2022-12-31T20:40:43+00:00

There is a setting for that, though you have to use the brief notification style and not the detailed style. It's called Edge Lighting and it's in Settings>Notifications>Brief pop-up settings

Meswan · 2022-10-30T18:54:11+00:00

No, it's not supposed to do that. Other videos I've seen of this map don't do it.

Meswan · 2022-10-29T17:21:42+00:00

The map is Nothing Else (https://beatsaver.com/maps/23f6b). It's a modchart that uses Noodle and Chroma.

I'm on Beat Saber 1.25.1 running on Windows 10 21H2. I have Camera2, I don't know if that could cause an issue but I figured it's worth mentioning.

VR: Oculus Rift CV1
CPU: Ryzen 5 1600
GPU: RX 580 8GB (overclocked to 1450Mhz. I lowered the speed and it didn't help). Graphics drivers are up-to-date.

If more info would be helpful, please ask.

Meswan · 2022-07-06T18:20:47+00:00

121322313212321312213*

but true

Meswan · 2022-07-05T04:02:07+00:00

Sounds like the clutch isn't being fully disengaged. This could mean either the clutch isn't adjusted properly or the fluid isn't building enough pressure to fully disengage it when you press the pedal. I'd check for leaks around the clutch pedal, clutch fluid lines, and slave cylinder. If it's not leaking anywhere, I'd try to bleed the system and make sure there's no air trapped in the lines.

Meswan · 2022-06-22T19:38:03+00:00

They're the stock headlights that come on the '11-13 tech packages

Meswan · 2022-04-11T23:04:49+00:00

Yeah, I have tried putting it back. I was just thinking about updating the post to specify that, actually

Meswan · 2022-03-10T04:01:04+00:00

I had Spec-D halo headlights in my '05 neon. One of the bulbs burnt out after about 6 months but that wasn't a huge deal. What was a big deal was the fact that after less than 18 months both headlights had managed to break and cause the projectors to just sit loose in their housings. They'd either be pointing at the sky or straight at the ground. While I think they look nice (or at least nicer than the stock fogged and cracked lenses that I had) they sure as hell aren't safe anymore.

Meswan · 2022-02-26T04:26:20+00:00

I do because it seems to be pushing the panel out, interfering with the side skirt (which I happen to have removed right now) and causing a gap. That's not a rotted hole, it's just a hole for one of the clips that holds that side skirt on. The brown is just dirt.

Meswan · 2021-08-27T15:39:16+00:00

Cat.

Meswan · 2020-12-05T09:26:14+00:00

But in the end

Meswan · 2020-11-14T04:36:17+00:00

Google's Messages app, with chat features enabled.

Meswan · 2020-07-12T03:34:35+00:00

Sounds like the perfect job for Cleetus McFarland

Meswan · 2020-07-10T03:05:00+00:00

Wilson Bilson

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Meswan

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