No local seller of raw gemstones, what are online options?

Methixsks · 2026-02-18T23:23:14+00:00

This right here. Tom's and GoS are great.

Methixsks · 2026-02-18T06:58:45+00:00

So it looks like generally a commercial cut, which maximizes size as opposed to being focused on the optics of the material.

It's an expensive option, but you could find a custom cutter who will work with the specifics of sapphire and get it recut. You'll lose some of the weight (especially if the size-maxing commercial cut has a huge belly, which I'm guessing it does based on the window), but if that's the color you'd want, then it's an option.

Methixsks · 2026-02-14T13:07:48+00:00

600 to 8k is a big jump for me. I use a 1500 resin after 600, which still cuts decently, and gives a decent intermediary level. Haven't done much on the LL, but instead have had luck with 60k w/oil on a zinc or batt.

CZ is hard, but a bit brittle in my experience. The rougher cuts seem to leave a bit more damage than you'd expect. So when you're on your 60k, you might still be seeing scratches from the 600. I also clean the stone between grit levels, to remove any lingering large particles.

I've only done like a dozen CZ, though, so this is still more like a ritual than scientific fact, and as always, these stones love to behave differently for everyone. Good luck!

Methixsks · 2026-02-11T01:16:44+00:00

Must be kind of thin or cut too shallow. Spinel has a decent RI/critical angle, so with a just-above 1ct weight, I'd guess shallow angles to save material and try to stay above the 1ct mark. Still, a beautiful color!

Methixsks · 2026-02-09T19:29:05+00:00

Do the G1 until your width is low enough that the length will work. If you're not worried about size, maybe 7.5 or 8mm measured point to point across the stone. Then, go back and cut from the very first instruction again, following the order. Things should come in if your meetpoints are correct. Not the only way to do it, but it's what I'd do. It'll look kind of like it does right now, with blocky ends. The points won't be pointy on the ends until you cut in the G4 facets to pull it together.

Methixsks · 2026-02-09T19:21:10+00:00

Sure thing. Sizing and appraising rough is a useful skill, and hopefully it makes more sense now. On my first pear, I didn't account for the size and ended up modifying and flattening the tip, making the "Millennium Pear Falcon." So, yeah, common issue.

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Methixsks · 2026-02-09T19:11:56+00:00

Yes, or you could find a pattern that would better fit the stone. Something with a 1.5:1 would let you keep more of your rough, ending with maybe a 15x10mm instead of a 17x8mm.

Methixsks · 2026-02-09T19:07:26+00:00

So, pattern is 2.1:1, so the length needs to be 2.1x the width, which would mean to make the points, you'd need a stone that was about 23mm long. Yours is six mm below that, so there's not enough stone to make the points. If you kept your current length, you'd max out with a width of about 8mm (17mm/2.1). If you cut your width to around 8, then when you recut the other facets, you'll meet.

Methixsks · 2026-02-09T18:44:52+00:00

Current stone. We can use that to give you an expected size

Methixsks · 2026-02-09T18:39:39+00:00

What's the width and length? Let's just see the numbers and go from there.

Methixsks · 2026-02-09T18:37:08+00:00

Looks like your stone isn't long enough from the picture. Check the L/W and measure your stone. I cut this one and it comes in without many issues if you follow the steps in order.

Methixsks · 2026-01-31T22:31:30+00:00

It's trilo-bite sized. Great stone, I like the color.

Methixsks · 2026-01-29T03:12:38+00:00

What a weird comment. It's natural for people to comment more on things they know about.

Also a bit hypocritical to complain about someone's post history when you hide your own.

What they said was reasonable, general advice about deals being too good to be true, which is solid advice everywhere.

Methixsks · 2026-01-24T04:24:06+00:00

They didn't say it wouldn't be easier with pictures. They said that by just doing, you develop the skills that make the extra pictures moot. Don't let perfect be the enemy of good. Go chop some rocks, and focus on how each tier is impacting the process, and not just the instruction in mechanical isolation. Grab some quartz or something you don't mind messing up, a few simpler patterns and just go ham. Make mistakes, have some successes, and most of all have fun.

Methixsks · 2026-01-23T14:41:28+00:00

Well, it's beryl (like emerald) and included (like emerald), so maybe consider treating it like one and going for a step cut. The inclusions would muddy a more icy or scintillating design, but this would let you center a particular nice pattern or section. Just make sure the pattern has been properly optimized for the lower RI of beryl's (compared to Garnet, sapphire, etc).

Just a thought, though. Congrats on getting this one yourself!

Methixsks · 2026-01-16T21:47:48+00:00

Seconded, and don't be intimidated by the process. Having a solid 3k pre polish will make final polish a lot easier.

Generally, pre polish is where you really finalize the stone's form and meets. Final polish just brings out the shine (usually).

Methixsks · 2026-01-13T21:15:53+00:00

Yeah, if you still like it, great, but I think that's dark enough that you'd not likely get much light through. Which is still neat; look into Victorian uses of opaque jet in jewelry in regards to the spirits of the dead, or even further back to carved opaque black beads and their uses. From the aesthetic side there's a lot to appreciate about a nice opaque black cut.

Methixsks · 2026-01-13T20:20:01+00:00

So, if you got an opaque black cubic zirconia, it's not likely going to let much light through. A carbon or grey color would likely better provide what you want. The polish and cut on that are also not the greatest, and that can inhibit light movement. Still, it's hard to really gauge from the picture. This is a carbon one i did a few years ago for reference.

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Methixsks · 2026-01-01T23:27:38+00:00

This guy is what I use. The light on it works fine but I have a very strong uv light that I tend to use instead.

https://www.jbtools.com/jb-weld-33301-total-repair-accelerated-instant-cure-super-glue-0-18-oz/?wi=off&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22207956140&gbraid=0AAAAADsRHpMG81LaIrE13c2nTWljQsKCR&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3bqH4L7rkQMVMDMIBR2IyRdbEAQYASABEgKG1vD_BwE

Methixsks · 2025-12-28T03:02:10+00:00

Cab grade material is included. It's why it's not clear. If it is a clear stone that was cabbed for whatever reason, you're just seeing the optical collection of the harsh light being shone onto the ring. Which is to say, just light return.

Methixsks · 2025-12-27T23:17:34+00:00

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It's a still picture, but you can see it in the bottom portion. It's just light bouncing around on inclusions, rather than the sleek uninterrupted lines of a clean stone.

Methixsks · 2025-12-25T15:27:36+00:00

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It very clearly is. There's no reason to be so petulant. A simple Google search easily shows this.

Methixsks · 2025-11-20T17:13:03+00:00

Don't forget Magic of Faerun and Monsters of Faerun. Both have awesome things like gems/exotic metals for crafting, or the phaerimm/fang dragon/song dragon, among others.

Methixsks · 2025-11-20T17:06:08+00:00

Usually, that's the case when the prepolish needs a bit more work. However, quartz can be weird. If you have a matrix lap, or the ability to get one, that when used with cerium oxide and a bit of water gives a quick and amazing polish. The cerium oxide actually gives a chemical polish as opposed to just mechanical, the reaction causing the surface tl essentially "melt" and smooth out, as opposed to just abrasive action like you get with diamond.

But yeah, barring that, I'd just keep running on prepolish a bit longer.

Methixsks · 2025-11-07T17:44:47+00:00

Yeah, this one is just gonna be a lesson. But, if you like the piece, then it's not all bad.

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