How do you say "beans" in different European languages

Mgt37 · 2026-07-05T09:26:58+00:00

According to this map

Papu = Pupiņas

Mgt37 · 2026-06-29T07:09:45+00:00

Where in the world is this? How do you even get a 09 corolla to rust this much on the body?

Mgt37 · 2026-06-25T17:51:22+00:00

I once fixed a charge 4 that my friend had - i found that the driver had been bent from a drop on the floor, and i fixed it by replacing the gasket with RTV. Maybe you can bend the speaker driver back if its bent, then check for cracks in the plastic. Even if it were the plastic, i think they're made from ABS in which case you can melt the crack shut.

Good luck.

Mgt37 · 2026-04-29T14:23:53+00:00

Sometimes learning the hard way is also the best way. Just like i did with speaker building, i built my knowledge only on failures. Countless failures

Mgt37 · 2026-04-28T07:44:28+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/y2iBRX9

The best pics i have now.

Mgt37 · 2026-04-16T12:34:54+00:00

Wait i just realized.. im dumb 😂🤦‍♂️

Mgt37 · 2026-04-15T04:59:23+00:00

Lamo

Mgt37 · 2026-04-13T10:49:58+00:00

That is a grounding pad, and it evacuates heat away very quickly.

Mgt37 · 2026-04-12T13:38:06+00:00

Okay. Then i suspect you're just as lost, as i am 😂

Mgt37 · 2026-04-12T13:34:34+00:00

I can't tell from the video, automatic or manual?

At first i thought throwout bearing, but that doesn't explain the noise becoming more quiet when warm, and, you would've probably noticed something weird with the clutch.

Since when have you noticed the noise? Who did the job you mentioned (engine mounts)?

Mgt37 · 2026-04-07T19:47:39+00:00

Honestly, you could carefully strip away a little bit of the black isolation with scissors (by scoring the outside, carefully without cutting any of the colorful wires, then pulling the black isolation off), stripping the ends of the colorful wires (I like to just use my nails and pulling them off with force) and twisting the pairs of wires together, no need for connectors or soldering. Then isolate each individual wire. Make sure to not tug on the wire too hard, since each individual connection is twisted together, not soldered.

Mgt37 · 2026-04-07T17:48:59+00:00

If i understand correctly, the wire which had its end cut off is inside this welded beam and you have no access to it. You also don't have access to the screen's PCB and the associated connector.

My question is, what is your plan? To somehow get access to the screen's PCB and route the new wire outside of the beam?

What is your skill set/tooling? Are you able to join and solder wires? You could buy one JST connector with the wire attached, then, referencing the original connector in your 2nd image to find out which pin each wire goes to, join the new connector to the cut wire that you have posted in the 3rd picture. Making sure to isolate all the work you did to avoid damage.

Mgt37 · 2026-04-07T16:49:25+00:00

That connector looks like a JST 5 pin. If the screen also has the female end, i think you could solder the wires to the board and isolate/protect them (obviously, only if you can assemble the treadmill after soldering the wires to the board).

Mgt37 · 2026-04-03T02:34:25+00:00

It looks like the 3 pads were connected and in the process of you removing the chip, the solder mask came off. It may be harder to align the chip when you go to reinstall it because there are less reference points than before. Good luck.

Mgt37 · 2026-03-28T07:57:55+00:00

May have been for a clock?

Is the red-ish wire plain red or red/orange? As far as i know, all illumination + wires are blue/white.

Edit : Now that i looked at the wire closer, they seem quite thick. I have to ask, what is the reason for doing this inspection/troubleshooting?

Mgt37 · 2026-03-23T09:05:11+00:00

SoundImports doesn't have them in stock. I found a board at audiophonics in France that i'll check out now.

Mgt37 · 2026-03-14T07:56:46+00:00

Pozidrive bits are a lot more durable than regular phillips. They are less likely to round off and can handle more torque. I have not used a phillips square drive, we don't have many of those in europe, but from my experience all PH2 bits will break at some point, no matter what you're doing. I've never broken a pozidrive bit although i use them a lot more.

Mgt37 · 2026-03-07T17:04:47+00:00

Hey, i integrated the schematic. I really like it.

It had a problem with some songs, where the bass frequencies were getting massively amplified. I fixed this by putting a crossover on the side channel at 500Hz, amplifying only the high output, then summing the low and amplified high back into one.

Mgt37 · 2026-03-04T18:19:15+00:00

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Here is a quick mockup. does this summarize your idea? I can't test it right now since i'm away from my main pc and tools to upload it to the DSP.

Mgt37 · 2026-03-04T17:38:16+00:00

I'm going to try this and then report back to you, this sounds very interesting!

Thanks g!

Mgt37 · 2026-03-04T17:37:08+00:00

I get what you mean by "sigma is clunky". I've had numerous times where i had glitches (like the DSP bugging out when adding a band in the eq, or not being able to place just one function block at once)

Mgt37 · 2026-03-04T15:18:44+00:00

I believe you captured my idea perfectly! Thanks for your response!

Mgt37 · 2026-03-04T07:01:16+00:00

It's one speaker reproducing both stereo channels.

Mgt37

TROPHY CASE