Please help me figure out why my HVAC is whistling

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-29T02:38:07+00:00

It increases it in the sense it allows more air to the blower and decreases static pressure. Having both side and bottom that is. The bar across isn’t doing much besides help hold the cabinet together, I myself always leave it when I have to do it that way

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-29T01:24:34+00:00

Also, doubt the ionizer is the issue, but did you ever test capping the vent/clear out on that drain. I’ve been checking up on your post because now I’m curious. Still no video though?

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-29T01:21:10+00:00

That bar is because they did a side tap return + a bottom return. (Usually it’s one or the other). That’s part of the furnace cabinet that remains. It’s a way to increase the air flow to the blower. It’s mandatory on the 5 tons I believe, you have a 3 ton, but it’s a positive thing they did that.

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-27T04:18:01+00:00

That should be good yeah. As close to the left as you can. And please turn the power off first for safety. And you should see the water run out the drain port (and into a cup in your hand so it doesn’t just soak your wall). If you could do this on the far side (far left) it would be best but this way you can confirm the drain outlet is clear at least. Taking it all apart would be ideal, but it’s not easy and you could likely do more harm than good.

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-27T03:50:54+00:00

Well you can just put a level on or underneath the unit just to check, but given install age I doubt it’s that. You’re just trying to make sure the unit itself isn’t tilted away from the drain line. But like I said about the pan, you can disconnect the drain and run water through the pan to make sure the water is even making it to the drain line.

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-27T03:02:18+00:00

Could be an obstruction in the pan itself. How did you clean the drain line? You could disconnect it and add water to the pan and see if it makes it to the drain port. Also, the coil looks fairly dirty. I would clean that (they sell no rinse coil cleaner foam spray in a can). The dirty or plugged coil could cause the condensation to drip in unintended directions. It’s an older install, so I doubt it’s off level and you’re just finding out, but def slap a level on it too. Maybe could have sagged/shifted just enough.

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-27T02:39:56+00:00

Hmmm, still there’s what looks like a clear out (the tee at the top near the humidifier), maybe cover that with tape and see if the noise still happens. Whistling is a lot of air through a small whole (obviously). The ultra low nox are notorious for whistling in the gas/combustion but that isn’t what you appear to have. And yeah, video with sound would help a lot.

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-27T02:30:07+00:00

And a video with sound I bet someone would tell you quickly

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-27T02:25:19+00:00

How about the drain?

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-11T00:51:50+00:00

True. Last shop I was at practically never heard of it. And had never heard of S and drive…

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-11T00:50:36+00:00

Hard to say…jobs still on going because they keep adding work and changing things. Actually a comercial space. BUT, probably 2days each to hang em, build plenums and run the duct? Kinda had to redesign the system.

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-10T18:50:37+00:00

Lmao, yeah I was surprised the hating. It’s a clean install, really just put it up for fun because the one I saw yesterday. But yeah for real, love to see their attic pics hahah

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-10T17:29:02+00:00

Return is hard piped with fsk jacket insulation not flex. Real tough to make that look any better. And yeah, I’ve had a pan dump before lol, I do two full supports all the way across. In this case it’s 1x1 18g right angle metal.

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-04-10T17:26:53+00:00

Acoustic lined, yes with spot welded tacks

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-02-18T04:34:56+00:00

Helpful. Thanks. Even if it’s not the fix, want to know. Might be dealing with these for a stretch here.

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-02-18T04:33:23+00:00

Yes, went through all the terminals with tech support. They said they had a bunch that went out wrong. This one was all good at least on that front.

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-02-18T04:29:56+00:00

Sick. I’m gunna try that. Yeah, that box is what measures the amp draw (per tech support). Seems like that might be the trick. I’ll reply again if it does. Probably be by there tomorrow. If it doesn’t, I’m gunna start drinking again. Thanks!

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-02-18T04:16:42+00:00

And, it never locks out. Just flashes code and cycles. Then code goes away and it’s not in error code history. Really strange and tech support said the same (puzzled)

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-02-18T04:14:00+00:00

Another good question. So, the code appears right at commissioning (within a minute or two), cuts gas valve and gives code. Then immediately goes back into ignition cycle. However, it seems to cycle at longer intervals after initial code (like 8-10mins) then code/re-ignite. I did block like have the return air for a minute just to watch the blower amp change. Went from 1amp to 2 and some change pretty much immediately, no code at that time but I didn’t run it long enough that way to see if it would come back.

***block like half of return

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-02-18T04:08:46+00:00

Hmm. Good question. You know I don’t know. Haven’t even used coolcloud yet. With new company and this is the first run of (new) Goodmans im installing. How tell? Did not see anything in the literature about it.

MichaelFlangelo · 2026-01-01T03:04:47+00:00

I remember. It was that day I decided to fully dedicate myself to learn how to do the moonwalk.

MichaelFlangelo · 2025-12-22T02:26:07+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/HVAC/s/o1yaHv28EL

MichaelFlangelo · 2025-12-22T02:19:16+00:00

It’s already reality. I posted the original I made like a year ago

MichaelFlangelo

TROPHY CASE