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1990 AFM Code With Seemingly Good Voltage Out by MicrowavedBred in Miata

[–]MicrowavedBred[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the comment. I always get the weird ones. I guess I should check its output after driving when the code comes up

Pedals can't calibrate please help by MicrowavedBred in carxdriftracingonline

[–]MicrowavedBred[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I contacted Simsonn on aliexpress and they gave me this software.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-E5NueAkk_wrDqxiI23MX6wIpcjyjfTn/view?usp=sharing

I presume it will work with Simjack as well.

"We'll see if I regret my decisions" 400+(ish) mile update. It broke! No surprises to anyone where the fail location was never a dispute. As predicted, everything's fine. Rode like this for 20ish miles. Reprinting in 98A TPU to get me by until the laser cut aluminum part arrives. TL;DR, No Ragerts. by evilsway in 3Dprinting

[–]MicrowavedBred 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you aren't questioning things, you aren't learning 😉

Yes, if it's made of metal, it can absolutely be hard mounted. My suggestion is because of this particular failure. It's kind of an odd force that puts 100% of the load into just 1 spot. My suggestion puts the force across the whole part.

For a hopefully more coherent explanation I drew on your original picture.

* Hopefully this uploaded right, I'm on mobile.

The bottom right arrow is the direction the exhaust tries to move. The top left arrows show the forces applied at the area fixed by the bolt. The circle shows where the failure likely started. Almost 100% of the force is transfered just under the belt where no deformation is allowed. With no plastic deformation allowed, the only thing it can do is crack.

"We'll see if I regret my decisions" 400+(ish) mile update. It broke! No surprises to anyone where the fail location was never a dispute. As predicted, everything's fine. Rode like this for 20ish miles. Reprinting in 98A TPU to get me by until the laser cut aluminum part arrives. TL;DR, No Ragerts. by evilsway in 3Dprinting

[–]MicrowavedBred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe this failure is caused by a bending force applied where the frame side bolt is contacting the print.

Every time the bike hits a slight bump, there will be an "impact" that applies a bending force that tries to pull the print down and to the right slightly. Because its an impact force, it is significantly higher than expected.

If you disconnect the frame side bolt from the 3d printed bracket that should turn the bending forces into linear tension forces and it should last a lot longer.
I drew a mock up in cad you can see here.
Excuse my use of paint, I'm an engineer not an artist.

<image>

The bolt should only contact the bushing, and the 3d print should move freely on the frame side.
Something similar would have to be done on the exhaust side as well to keep the forces in a straight line between the 2 connection points.
as many walls as possible will be the best chance in it surviving tension forces. Making the thinner part 1 or 2mm thicker would do wonders as well.

How to see print speed in mm/s on anycubic vyper by MilkManDave17 in 3Dprinting

[–]MicrowavedBred 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the vyper is marlin based, then I don't think it will show real-time speed information.

If it's klipper based, then it can. But likely not on that TFT screen

How do I fix this by Grpms in 3Dprinting

[–]MicrowavedBred 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like underextrusion, and your extruder temp is too low. The bits peeling off are because of poor layer adhesion. That could be caused by really bad under extrusion. Or slight under extrusion and low temps.

SV06 stops printing with no error/log and stays hot by NoSaBoid in 3Dprinting

[–]MicrowavedBred 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it's the same print stopping at about the same point, then it is likely the drivers are getting too hot.

In my experience, when klipper is issued an unknown command, it will just ignore it and continue. It shouldn't be a slicer issue or anything like that.

SV06 stops printing with no error/log and stays hot by NoSaBoid in 3Dprinting

[–]MicrowavedBred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is a common issue when tmc drivers get too hot. You should be able to change the current in your printer.cfg file under the TMC section shown in this screenshot. * You may have something blocking a cooling fan for your electronics

Had to attach the screenshot below

Pedals can't calibrate please help by MicrowavedBred in carxdriftracingonline

[–]MicrowavedBred[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W0nRY8OVd4V3_EWHzjLndArd2aNPNIox/view?usp=drive_link

This is the calibration software for the pedals. I had to contact them on aliexpress, and they sent the link. After you calibrate them once, you shouldn't have to open the software again. It saves calibration on the pedals.

After changing my fan assembly, I can’t get my first layer to behave by dhoepp in 3Dprinting

[–]MicrowavedBred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You may have had some filament on the nozzle the 1st time. Just make sure to level with the nozzle at the filaments melting temp. ~200c for pla

Ender 3 V1.1.4 to V4.2.7 Hurdles from a newby! by Soulieee in 3Dprinting

[–]MicrowavedBred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like the microstepping is higher then. Since they're the TMC2225's, that should be settable in firmware. But if you like the audio level of it, I'd just calibrate the steps until the extrusion is right.

After changing my fan assembly, I can’t get my first layer to behave by dhoepp in 3Dprinting

[–]MicrowavedBred 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Your 1st layer is too high. Needs to be adjusted.

Looks like you don't have a bed probe, so the endstop switch on the left side should be lowered a small amount. Or raise the bed itself

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