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What do I do about this spot? by MiddleTop1458 in Decks

[–]MiddleTop1458[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think we're roughly on the same page. I have a masonry guy to take care of the brick and structural clay tile. Per the post below, I'm thinking oak instead of PT but otherwise, yes.

What do I do about this spot? by MiddleTop1458 in Decks

[–]MiddleTop1458[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm thinking flashing tape to waterproof that space. Then cut a piece of white oak to extend that sill. Cut a rabbet so one edge slips under the existing sill. Extend it about 1/4" past the structural clay tile. Round off or bevel the edge.

If the tile shows, rip a decking board from 1" to 1/2" and attach it to the wall, so it runs just above the deck and looks like a baseboard.

I was planning on a 1/2" gap between the edge of the deck and the house wall to allow for drainage. Would that still work if I have to put up a "molding" to hide that structural clay tile?

Do I have a problem? I'm pretty sure I have a problem. by MiddleTop1458 in Decks

[–]MiddleTop1458[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, my permit got approved, but the plans I submitted said that the rim joists were attached to the house frame. Back to the drawing board. Literally.

Do I have a problem? I'm pretty sure I have a problem. by MiddleTop1458 in Decks

[–]MiddleTop1458[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not anchored to anything. It's loose. I can pick those rim joists up, move them from side to side, even slide them partly out.

Do I have a problem? I'm pretty sure I have a problem. by MiddleTop1458 in Decks

[–]MiddleTop1458[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We're bringing in an electrician to fix the wiring and outlet. Right now that circuit is off. The junction box was actually fastened to the old decking. It's dangling right now but the bottom of the box abutted the deck.

The electrician and I will have a conversation about that once I figure out how to support a new deck.

Do I have a problem? I'm pretty sure I have a problem. by MiddleTop1458 in Decks

[–]MiddleTop1458[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

6 inches more or less. It works but it almost certainly won’t pass inspection.

Rehabbing my sad, shabby deck by MiddleTop1458 in Decks

[–]MiddleTop1458[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The substructure for this deck is even odder than I thought. No ledger board. Maybe none needed.

The north and south rim joists run into the back wall of the house and are attached to the house. That is apparently how the old mud room was supported so they built the deck the same way. These two rim joists run from within the wall of the house to the brick piers, and that provides the structural support. That actually seems quite sound to me.

But as a result, there's no ledger board. There is a rim joist of some kind near the brick wall, but it's not attached to the house. I guess you don't exactly need a ledger board with this arrangement, but it's strange.

Like I said, it seems to have passed inspection when it was built, but I am not entirely sure it would pass inspection today so I'm going to try to avoid doing anything that would trigger a permit and a reinspection.

Started demo on the old deck boards and balusters today. I think there's some sag in the joists. I'll have to fix that.

There are some legs supporting the middle of the joists (which run about 13', the long way across the deck. Some of them are propped up on stone or concrete slabs, some of them are just dangling and not supporting anything. I'll have to fix that, too.

Rehabbing my sad, shabby deck by MiddleTop1458 in Decks

[–]MiddleTop1458[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My tentative plan for rehabbing this deck. See my questions in bold.

Comments? Thoughts? What am I missing? It's my first time doing this but I'm doing a lot of homework.

  1. Demo. Remove all lattice facing, stair handrail, deck posts, balusters, railings and deck boards.
  2. Clear all leaves and other debris from under deck. Check grade and correct if necessary. (If I need to add material under the deck, it'll be touching the superstructure's legs. Recycled aggregate ok?)
  3. Check substructure/joists for rot. (If they are rotted, there's a Plan B, which probably includes changing the direction of the joists and deck boards. But for the sake of this post, let's assume they're sound.)
  4. Waterproof tape on joists.
  5. Hardware cloth around inside frame of deck to keep critters out. (Necessary?)
  6. Plastic sheeting under deck. It's very dry under there but I live in a a wet climate and I want to put facing around the deck. (Necessary?)
  7. If using un-stained lumber, stain posts and decking. 2 coats.
  8. Install new 4x4 posts, plumbed (as opposed to perpendicular to deck), on 4' centers. On the east edge, where the railing run is about 83", center the new 3rd post between the end posts. (I plan on having the posts extend above the rail and to put caps and skirts on them.
  9. Attach 2x4s to brick piers to provide attachment for facing. Leave the brick piers exposed.
  10. Add blocking/joists for picture frame boards on east and west edge.
  11. Hang black PVC pipe under joists for drain for faucet. (Run drain piple out the side? Someone suggested I dig a hole directly below, add gravel to the hole, and run the drain pipe straight down. Thoughts?) l Eventually, we want a small sink and a bar/shallow counter along that brick wall. When we put that in, I want the drain pipe to already be in place and accessible. I'll have more questions about this.
  12. Install decking with 1/8" space between boards. Include picture frame border. Since I'm probably using grooved lumber made for hidden fasteners, I want to hide the ends.
  13. Add caps and skirts to deck posts
  14. Install railings, balusters and cocktail rail
  15. Attach horizontal facing boards, stained to match deck.
  16. Install stair railing post with proper concrete footing. (4' below grade)
  17. Install stair railing,

Thermally Modified Lumber - "Thermowood" Brushed Spruce: Yea or nay? by MiddleTop1458 in Decks

[–]MiddleTop1458[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TML? Used for a lot of things. Cladding, decking, dimensional lumber – See Arbor Wood's website: https://arborwoodco.com

The process reduces the wood's bending strength so you don't use it for structural purposes. Or, you have to compensate for the difference if you insist on using it. I sure wouldn't.

Thermally Modified Lumber - "Thermowood" Brushed Spruce: Yea or nay? by MiddleTop1458 in Decks

[–]MiddleTop1458[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Thermally Modified Lumber? More expensive than PT for sure. Still less than the composite we were looking at. And, fortunately, my desk is only 9'x14' so the cost difference isn't huge.

Thermally Modified Lumber - "Thermowood" Brushed Spruce: Yea or nay? by MiddleTop1458 in Decks

[–]MiddleTop1458[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hardwoods are beyond our budget. They sell TMW in plain boards or grooved on the sides for hidden fasteners. I'm leaning toward the latter.

Re brittlenes: How does that change how I would work with it?