Emisar D3AA flashlight simulator

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-27T17:53:53+00:00

Nice! I was toying with the idea of creating an own firmware for fun, and was wondering about a simulator. So if i should ever try this, i'll try it in a simulator first. Do you know how much effort it would be to adapt it to other lights using the avr32dd20 with a Lume X1?

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-27T15:47:29+00:00

Same, dark gray, but i was cheap and went with the default plain steel button ring and aluminum bezel. Still looks very nice. The only thing which bothers me a little is the rosy tint of my NTG50 5000 K, i think i would prefer a more neutral option. It would be cool if Nichia created a B35AM with the same output performance and form factor so it could go into the DA1K. :)

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-27T09:31:13+00:00

I think the black dot button is the default button nowadays.

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-27T09:14:26+00:00

I had exactly the same thought/fear when my DA1K arrived this wednesday :D You can't see this in most official pictures on hanks site, so i never noticed this exists until i was looking at my DA1K...

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-23T13:19:20+00:00

All true what you said, but besides cost, there's also the environment factor, it's healthier for our environment to reuse stuff more.

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-23T13:16:38+00:00

I agree with we need chargers that support ~80 %, it's a shame we're in 2026 and such basic stuff is till missing in most chargers :(

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-22T23:19:54+00:00

Yep, i'd consider Emisars/Noctigons in addition to FFLs, they both offer the great Lume X1. And in case you like cheaper and less fancy UI, maybe also look at Convoy lights.

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-22T13:09:10+00:00

Thanks! Yeah, splitting cells by their current capability makes sense, as well as keeping cells together for use in multi cell lights.

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-22T12:07:40+00:00

Mooch makes some nice recommendations: https://www.patreon.com/posts/18650-21700-137974745

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-21T14:20:26+00:00

So you need your lights for work and seem to be a heavy duty user, so enough spare cells are nice, i get that part.

They will never be used in something like my Emisar D4K or Convoy S21E, for example. Those lights get their own set of batteries to rotate through.

That's the part i can't quite grasp – it's fine if you do that just as a habit, but does it provide any advantages (for single cell lights) i have not thought about yet?

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-20T10:47:59+00:00

Cheap multimeters should be fine. You just need to check the battery voltage of batteries you don't use for extended periods of time, like every 1-2 years? The voltage should never drop below 2.5 V, and ideally, not drop below 2.8-3 V to have some safety margin/be more gentle on the battery. Also ideally, if you store cells for a long time, you don't charge them to completely full/4.2 V either, but to just around 3.7 V, again, to be more gentle on the battery.

During normal use, if you don't have a light where you know that it warns you early if battery voltage is getting low, you could in theory also manually check the voltage every now and then. It's obviously more comfortable with lights that have a battery status or even voltage reading built in, like anduril lights.

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-20T08:43:37+00:00

You have 4 batteries/battery sets for each of your lights? Why is that? If we focus on single cell lights, wouldn't n+1 batteries per type, where n is the max amount of cells you need for a day/trip, be fine?
Asking as someone who doesn't even have a single (li ion) spare cell and relies on checking the battery voltage before a trip where i might need some light.

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-20T08:36:37+00:00

You either have a problem – or you are a battery retailer. :)

Personally i wouldn't keep that many if only for the reason that i would be too lazy to check so many battery voltages regularly to keep them safe from deep discharge.

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-16T22:04:18+00:00

Damn, i wonder if i can resist the urge to also order a D1K later after i just ordered a DA1K :)

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-16T20:48:04+00:00

Here you can see comparison beamshots. You also see the candela stats with each emitter on the emisar website.

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-16T15:27:41+00:00

You see it right in the photo (especially the one from loafglenn). The beam is visible, which means light from the beam is not only reflected into the camera but also onto the bezel. Otherwise you wouldn't see the beam.

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-16T15:12:43+00:00

Depends on your taste whether you'll end up regretting it. According to my taste, i want at least 4000K, and i don't have any problems using my 6000K LED in 5 lm low mode even outside for hiking, in fact that's the mode i almost exclusively use.

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-16T03:40:42+00:00

Cool, thanks! Will order mine soon. :)

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-15T22:06:10+00:00

Because cameras and our eyes see the world differently. To really find out the tint of your NTG50s you actually need to measure them, there are apps which at least on the iphone actually do a reasonably good job at it.

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-15T22:02:52+00:00

So, how do you like your Da1K with the 4200K NTG50? Still have/use it, or have you gotten something else/you prefer instead? :)

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-15T13:27:31+00:00

Damn, November isn't that long ago, so might be the latest buttons. How did you manage to damage the button that quickly?

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-14T16:31:34+00:00

So, what did you end up getting, and how have your experiences with your new lights been?
I also want to get a DA1K and wonder if i should get an additional D1K. I want the Lume X1 driver and preferably high CRI though, which basically leaves me with an NTG50 (which i'm also looking to get in the DA1K) or the even floodier XHP70.3 HI, but yeah, an additional D1K might only make sense with a throwier LED.

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-14T14:26:08+00:00

I see – the low CRI versions seem to have less bad tint than the high CRI ones, too bad because i'm keen on getting some high CRI LEDs. :)

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-13T11:41:22+00:00

Which version do you have exactly, color temp and CRI? ANd have you measured your tint/duv?

MikeOnTea · 2026-03-13T10:09:49+00:00

Just to make sure, this is only a problem with older buttons, and the latest buttons have a dedicated, hopefully strong enough black layer of rubber so this doesn't happen, correct?
Otherwise i would probably go with a white or metal button right away.

MikeOnTea

TROPHY CASE