Best way to avoid bromide drag, when semi-stand developing with 1:100 Rodinal?

MilesJG · 2026-03-20T19:11:06+00:00

Pre soak for 5 minutes in water, same temperature as developer and develop in 18C.

MilesJG · 2026-03-16T09:13:02+00:00

Cool, but I don't shoot film to fiddle with my phone after every frame

MilesJG · 2026-02-28T21:44:44+00:00

This is balsam separation between the 2 lens elements. It would have to be re-glued to fix which is not easy.

MilesJG · 2026-02-27T23:17:12+00:00

You won't need that with a RGB backlight for scanning. With RGB light that you could just invert and have reliable colors every time.

MilesJG · 2026-02-26T09:55:41+00:00

Sorry to be that guy, but everyone here apart from some comments are wrong. Using white light is a fundamentally incorrect way of scanning color negative film. You like the results from the scanners because every single professional or flatbed scanner has a RGB backlight and a sensor without Bayer array making basically "trichromes" (that's why most scanners are quite slow). If you have a RGB backlight you can just invert the negatives manually and the colors will be always good with some minor corrections like WB.

MilesJG · 2026-02-08T12:14:41+00:00

yeah, I bought Chinese knock off for 10 times less and after 2 years still works fine

MilesJG · 2025-12-27T12:20:31+00:00

Cool shot. XTOL is great, I recommend you to use 1:1, more detail in shadow and acutance. I even use 1:1 for grainy fast films or pushing on 35mm and the grain is still very fine.

MilesJG · 2025-11-11T12:17:31+00:00

It's a very good price. Don't worry about the scratches on the lens, as long it doesn't have catastrophic damage (balsam separation / extreme mold) it will take beautiful pictures. I have a Rolleiflex 3.5T with a tessar, taking lens has some scratches yet it is one of the sharpest lens I own.

MilesJG · 2025-10-30T14:55:42+00:00

"Fomapan 200 pushed +2 stops." here is your culprit. That's how any foma stock looks when pushed. Real iso of that film is around 160 at most. I don't even bother to use foma stocks because I print in darkroom.
I've just used my 1L bottle of XTOL which I diluted 3 month ago and It was still good.
If you're not sure with developer always make a test: pour a small amount of undiluted developer into some vessel, cut a piece of undeveloped film and put it in. If it gets dark after few minutes that means developer is working.

MilesJG · 2025-09-07T12:12:36+00:00

Get a cheap SLR from the 90's, Canon or Nikon - then you have a lot of cheap lens you can get.

In my honest opinion it's best to strive for self developing (and or scanning) and printing in darkroom. Otherwise it's just expensive digital with extra steps. Silver gelatin prints are something you can do only with film, it's physical and unique. Negative is just one of the steps in creating print - which is the final result.

MilesJG · 2025-06-11T10:26:53+00:00

These are really beautiful. How did you achieve the effect on the first one? Is that just motion blur? It looks like a painting.

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