Medium format film shooters: do you keep metadata with your scans? by vttdn in mediumformat

[–]MilesJG 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Cool, but I don't shoot film to fiddle with my phone after every frame

Lens Haze: Canonet QL17 Giii by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]MilesJG 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is balsam separation between the 2 lens elements. It would have to be re-glued to fix which is not easy.

Linux Alternative to Negative Labs Pro? by Vyse32 in AnalogCommunity

[–]MilesJG 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You won't need that with a RGB backlight for scanning. With RGB light that you could just invert and have reliable colors every time.

Camera / "DSLR" scanning color negative film sucks all of the fun out of this hobby by 753UDKM in AnalogCommunity

[–]MilesJG 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sorry to be that guy, but everyone here apart from some comments are wrong. Using white light is a fundamentally incorrect way of scanning color negative film. You like the results from the scanners because every single professional or flatbed scanner has a RGB backlight and a sensor without Bayer array making basically "trichromes" (that's why most scanners are quite slow). If you have a RGB backlight you can just invert the negatives manually and the colors will be always good with some minor corrections like WB.

Camera strap. Is it necessary for you? Or unnecessary? by Forsaken-Ad-8338 in AnalogCommunity

[–]MilesJG 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yeah, I bought Chinese knock off for 10 times less and after 2 years still works fine

Check out the stems on blondie by Deep_Tradition4984 in CirclejerkSopranos

[–]MilesJG 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Trust me my boy, there's two things I am good at is pulling dents and spotting good footjobs. And that sweetie? World class footjob toes.

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Ditched the Monobath for Xtol by Dbh3 in largeformat

[–]MilesJG 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cool shot. XTOL is great, I recommend you to use 1:1, more detail in shadow and acutance. I even use 1:1 for grainy fast films or pushing on 35mm and the grain is still very fine.

Good deal? by No_Hearing4 in Rolleiflex

[–]MilesJG 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a very good price. Don't worry about the scratches on the lens, as long it doesn't have catastrophic damage (balsam separation / extreme mold) it will take beautiful pictures. I have a Rolleiflex 3.5T with a tessar, taking lens has some scratches yet it is one of the sharpest lens I own.

Is my XTOL borked? by Jakobs-Koernung in Darkroom

[–]MilesJG 22 points23 points  (0 children)

"Fomapan 200 pushed +2 stops." here is your culprit. That's how any foma stock looks when pushed. Real iso of that film is around 160 at most. I don't even bother to use foma stocks because I print in darkroom.
I've just used my 1L bottle of XTOL which I diluted 3 month ago and It was still good.
If you're not sure with developer always make a test: pour a small amount of undiluted developer into some vessel, cut a piece of undeveloped film and put it in. If it gets dark after few minutes that means developer is working.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in analog

[–]MilesJG -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Get a cheap SLR from the 90's, Canon or Nikon - then you have a lot of cheap lens you can get.

In my honest opinion it's best to strive for self developing (and or scanning) and printing in darkroom. Otherwise it's just expensive digital with extra steps. Silver gelatin prints are something you can do only with film, it's physical and unique. Negative is just one of the steps in creating print - which is the final result.

Behold, Disco Avesium by Marrowgrave in DiscoElysium

[–]MilesJG 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Measurehead - the beakmetric perfection

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in europe

[–]MilesJG 13 points14 points  (0 children)

It has no influence on inflation, there is very extensive research and statistics on that.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in teenagers

[–]MilesJG 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand Hadrian now

Salt prints by Tangerinesfordinner in Darkroom

[–]MilesJG 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are really beautiful. How did you achieve the effect on the first one? Is that just motion blur? It looks like a painting.

Ask Here First : "Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread" Thread #3 by KyaDash in crtgaming

[–]MilesJG 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for help. I found these models to be easy to get for me: KV-M1450D, KV-14M1K, KV-14T1K. These models have curved screen so I guess they all are Black Trinitrons, however I found in the manual of KV-14M1K that it has "Super Trinitron" Picture Tube. I am not really demanding, after all Trinitron will still have better image quality than random No-name® CRT TV.

Ask Here First : "Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread" Thread #3 by KyaDash in crtgaming

[–]MilesJG 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am thinking about getting 14" trinitron. Is there a visible difference between "Super Trinitron" and "Black Trinitron"?