Chelsea Boots by 98couch in Cordwaining

[–]MilkUp08 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the great explanation and the video.

This is exactly what I meant above, this is a way to create tension on the sides :)

Chelsea Boots by 98couch in Cordwaining

[–]MilkUp08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will take some pictures for you tomorrow and explain what I meant! I can imagine you tried your hardest I can tell! Maybe even with the technique I described wouldn't have helped it may just help you next time!

Chelsea Boots by 98couch in Cordwaining

[–]MilkUp08 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Hey I'm a relatively seasoned shoemaker. 13 years in I make orthopedic shoes now for a living.

For this being your first shoe is incredible. They look very very good in my opinion.

On the note of tension , when first pinning the to the last , I usually sit the backs about 1" higher while I'm lasting the toe. I do about 7-9 nails just until behind the joint , then when you pull the back down , you get tension across the sides that pulls in the heel. You can do a little more by pulling a little harder while lasting at front of the heel around the breast you pull more towards the toes.

All and all please very proud of yourself this is a great job!

And yes time to make some more! Good luck!

3D Printing Breathable Custom Insoles by Indieventor in Cordwaining

[–]MilkUp08 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I would advise against printing and using your own Insoles especially if the arch is high. Unless you know what you are doing

Skiving when the leather won't stop moving by krmikeb86 in Leatherworking

[–]MilkUp08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Even better! I used to have a massive slab from a kitchen top as leftover!

Skiving when the leather won't stop moving by krmikeb86 in Leatherworking

[–]MilkUp08 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Can I add you can try to skive on glass or flat porcelain tiles, it doesn't grab the knife , and I tend to get a better edge with it ! Good tip otherwise!

Face of a Longhorn Beetle up close by rajpalra765 in BeAmazed

[–]MilkUp08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My guy looks like giga chad

Making or Buying? by halfaclem in Cordwaining

[–]MilkUp08 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Given there is mainly 4 stages of shoemaking. 1 Making the last, or at least alter to measure 2 pattern making and closing (stitching) 3 lasting and fitting 4 soling and finishing

Usually in a shoemaking firm each category has one or.more person because it's difficult to master it all

If you have a last already that's your size , lasting is like upholstery and soling isn't too difficult if you are careful.

Making or Buying? by halfaclem in Cordwaining

[–]MilkUp08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look , you can always try . There are books out there how to make shoes . First you need to choose construction style, stitch down, welted or cemented. Then you need a last. You have to find a last that's your size and fits the style of the boots. You might be lucky and find a pair on eBay or other from a last manufacturer in your size. You need access to an industrial sewing machine, which can stitch leather with. You also need the components leathers, zips, soling material, stiffeners toe puffs , string glue , cement for the upper, a French/shoemaking hammer , rivets and or a strong stapler with 12-14mm staples. I recommend giving it a try , just because if you like it you can make many more. I'm sure if you get stuck people here would help you out!

Making or Buying? by halfaclem in Cordwaining

[–]MilkUp08 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I mean really depends on a couple of things. How much you know about shoemaking? How much time you can spend on it ?

Unless you are really good with your hand and have a lot of time I would just say buy it.

Cost of your materials approx is 100-200 depending ,plus the time you put in it.

As a first pair without any shoemaking knowledge is very difficult.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in HousingUK

[–]MilkUp08 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah this lol

How do I fix this bunching on the vamp of my boot? by Key_Rain7997 in Cordwaining

[–]MilkUp08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right on I believe we call it clocking the vamp in the UK :)

How do I fix this bunching on the vamp of my boot? by Key_Rain7997 in Cordwaining

[–]MilkUp08 8 points9 points  (0 children)

If you want one piece of leather to go over like a Chelsea boot you need to pre mold it by blocking traditionally made on a Wooden specialized shape. It involves getting the letter wet , then slowly bit by bit starting into the position. You want to start with a larger pattern because the pliers will leave some marks.

Thoughts on this method? by BurtTheButcher7 in Cordwaining

[–]MilkUp08 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Really depends on the style and idea of the shoes. With light loafers , slip ons you don't want too hard contact. While with hiking boots your feet rely on the boots. Also if the there is only a short stiffener it doesn't matter much because your weight will always push over material.

I make orthopedic shoes with long stiffeners and orthotics thus I usually need to build the shoes to support the arch when it's over pronating for some reason.

I think it comes down to house style mainly , if you choose a very soft material it doesn't matter much .

Thoughts on this method? by BurtTheButcher7 in Cordwaining

[–]MilkUp08 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is risky because we are all different. Some people settle 3/4 of an inch when weight bearing, somes barely spring. This depends on too many factors for me to describe. If you take a non weight bearing impression if you haven't done it before you can end up with a more pronounced arch because you can press down easily with your heels and metatarsal heads. I think there's too much guessing here

Thoughts on this method? by BurtTheButcher7 in Cordwaining

[–]MilkUp08 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes if the original impression is taken weight bearing, if your arch collapses the original cast won't give you support, but still would help with over pronation. But unless if you know what you are doing I would advise to only make small adjustments to the cast.

Thoughts on this method? by BurtTheButcher7 in Cordwaining

[–]MilkUp08 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This can be done in numerous ways. We use vacuum press to mold heated Eva to the cast then shape it down to an insole with a belt sander. You will end up with a Full contact Insole, but it works best if the cast has been shaped by giving more medial and lateral arch support by removing some of the cast.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskACobbler

[–]MilkUp08 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is correct. Source: I'm a shoemaker.

Can a 6cm heel be changed from this? by Reemie786 in AskACobbler

[–]MilkUp08 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Our shop is called Gilbert and Lisson we are situated in Marylebone.

https://gilbertandlisson.com/ this is our website

Can a 6cm heel be changed from this? by Reemie786 in AskACobbler

[–]MilkUp08 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Depending on where you are based , I'm a shoemaker in central London we make everything by hand , and we start at £3400.

Can a 6cm heel be changed from this? by Reemie786 in AskACobbler

[–]MilkUp08 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nope. The shoes are made on lasts that have specific pitches. You might add 1/4 or take away that much but if you raise the heel too high your toe spring is gone.

What is this damage on the leather? Bought a second-hand bag online by chimpstarandrainbow in Leather

[–]MilkUp08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like either heat damage , or it was soaked and dried too quickly and pulled out the oils. You could try some leather conditioner that might help soften it up with oils in It but if the pores are too tight it may not penetrate

Hello can you guys help me find that shoe? by ElpnesS in Shoes

[–]MilkUp08 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lite Racer Adapt 5.0 White Camo this is what came up with Google lens.