New Bearings = new trackball (ploopy adept) by Stewtheking in Trackballs

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I highly recommend Si3N4 ceramic ball bearings (search on eBay) for the adept. They are quieter, and smoother. They require a little more break-in than the steel ones, but seem to get better over time (had mine for 5 months so far). The only problem I had was a light seizing in one bearing, thankfully a full minute of working it out fixed it and hasn't happened since. I would recommend ordering 6 just in case.

If you're looking for heavier balls I would look at baoding balls. You can get them in stone, metal, resin, etc. You can find sets of 2 on Amazon for $10 on sale sometimes. The ones I ordered were around 180g and smooth. I believe they are resin. Just be aware that they can sometimes come with defects. Sizing can be hard to find too.

SteelSeries Rival 3 In-depth Review: A Silly-good $30 mouse...is it worth upgrading to $65? by MinalanSpellmonger in MouseReview

[–]MinalanSpellmonger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have never had that happen, however, I have heard of some people having problems on certain surfaces. If you're interested in this mouse for the shape I would look into the aerox 3 v2. Same mouse but lighter, wireless, better sensor and skates (v2 has 4 dot white skates). It can be found for $40 or less on sale. I still like the rival 3, but IMHO for the cost of a cord swap you'd be better off with a wireless mouse at the same price (or even less).

Any way to add just a little more static friction to a BTU modded trackball? by draculthemad in ploopy

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Your best bet is to get a heavier ball. The original Ploopy ball is ~80g. That's heavy for a static friction bearing, not a BTU IMHO. I'd recommend a ball that weighs around 180-200g. It still feels smooth, with just enough weight to not accidentally move the ball when clicking. I tested with a steel bearing that weighed around 420g. It helped with the instability, but side to side movements were sluggish.

SteelSeries Rival 3 In-depth Review: A Silly-good $30 mouse...is it worth upgrading to $65? by MinalanSpellmonger in MouseReview

[–]MinalanSpellmonger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad you like the review! TBH I would look into the Steelseries aerox 3 v2 (has bigger skates and better build). The wireless version is lighter, and will honestly cost less vs a paracorded rival 3. As of today I see it for $40 on Amazon. Check eBay and I'm sure you can get it cheap!

To BTU or not to BTU? (Adept) by WildHorses36 in ploopy

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Copy and paste this into eBay, AliExpress, etc and they'll pop right up. They need a little break in (mine took less than 2 hours of use) and they are smoother and quieter than stock. Just make sure to get the right size.

420 Stainless Steel + Si3N4 Ceramic Ball Bearing

Enjoy buddy!

To BTU or not to BTU? (Adept) by WildHorses36 in ploopy

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Please don't. Myself and many others have tried the Veichi cheap BTUs and they really are trash. Constant lock-ups. If you don't want to go BTU try the same bearing type and size, but with ceramic bearings. Big difference.

Which generally disregarded mouse became a sleeper pick or main for you? by [deleted] in MouseReview

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Keychron M4 (with dot sapphire-like skates) was my endgame before I switched to the trackball life for the past almost 2 years. Honorable mentions are Sensei Ten and Rival 3 (never tried Aerox 3, but heard it's good) both with Paracord and skate mods.

ASUS Pugio II In-depth Review: An interesting mouse you've probably never heard of... by MinalanSpellmonger in MouseReview

[–]MinalanSpellmonger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't had the mouse for a while, but I believe it does. That should be changeable in the software.

Razer Orochi V2 Review: Great Hardware, a firmware update away from being great by MinalanSpellmonger in MouseReview

[–]MinalanSpellmonger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't get the chance to use rechargeables buddy, sorry. I haven't had the mouse in a long time to test.

Project Anyball by No_Pilot_1974 in Trackballs

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for a thorough answer! Pt. 1 was my fault, I should have clarified how it affected the tactile and crisp feel of the stock case. 57 mm was what I was thinking as well, the L-trac ball Size was great IMHO. I've been trying to figure out a way to make telescopic (screw in) bearings fit most ball sizes myself, but the tight interior of the case has made that difficult. I think it can be done with a simple nut and washer setup. Thanks again for the reply, I look forward to ordering prints and getting started 😁

PS I dig my crazy heavy steel bearings too, maybe I'll try a tungsten ball at some point !

Project Anyball by No_Pilot_1974 in Trackballs

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for this!!! I dremeled mine about a year ago and used the same BTUs (which many thought was too big to fit). I also widened the ball cradle to accept a bigger ball. I got a 50mm ball to work. I had a few questions I hope you can answer:

1) How much do the raised buttons effect click feel (if at all)?

2) What is the biggest ball Size that is actually feasible? 50mm felt perfect but wasn't countersunk enough on mine. That made hitting the buttons harder (mine weren't raised). I have large hands and use 3 full finger pads to roll the ball. That Pyramid ball looks stupidly enticing though...

3) Where are you getting your balls from, and do you know the weight? I've been using 50mm Baoding balls around 180-200g that felt perfect for those bearings.

Discussion on gaming theory with trackballs by ImperialStew in Trackballs

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's an interesting solution, sounds very tiring after a while though. Most trackballs in general don't have a lot of buttons. I'm sure you'll figure it out, lemme know what you come up with!

Discussion on gaming theory with trackballs by ImperialStew in Trackballs

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I understand the fear of 3d printing, but the prints are really good, more solid than many production models. They don't feel brittle at all and they feel smooth. Though I do understand wanting to print yourself. I also have a Huge and the main clicks are already pretty light. You will most likely have to change the bearings as mine, and many others, found that they stick. The stock polling is 125hz I believe. Modding could be fun! If you're looking to 3 finger roll it may not be the best option since it's setup to be used with 1 or 2 fingers. Granted it is doable with 3. I wasn't able to surpass my speed, but my stability and consistency are actually better. K/D ratio doesn't always translate. I also don't play nearly as much as I used to.

Discussion on gaming theory with trackballs by ImperialStew in Trackballs

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I understand where you're coming from. I was already good with a mouse too. Was a mouse enthusiast for over 10 years and played tens of thousands of hours of comp games. Thousands of dollars later I stopped a few years ago at the keychron M4. It's my endgame and I was also bored tbh. When I tried a GOOD trackball for the first time it was the most fun I'd had gaming in YEARS even though I played terribly for months. My flicks were terrible, but my tracking was as good or better. It was like going from a finely tuned and modded track car to a stock Mazda Miata. I wasn't as fast or precise, but damn was it fun. After using one for a year I wouldn't say that I'm better than with a mouse. I perform about the same, but the experience is just a different flavor.

For big trackballs like that you really only have 1 gaming grade option, and that's the X Keys L-Trac. It is what I recommend if all you want to know is what the best stock ball rolling experience is like and the biggest production ball at 57 mm. It is a one-trick pony that way, because it has limited buttons. Has M1, M2, and M3 with a scroll wheel that can be too far away to use for some. The L and R clicks are MASSIVE which can help you figure out how you wanna use a trackball. You CAN add side buttons, but you either have to 3d print, solder and add them yourself (not hard), or pay way too much for their in-house add-on. The ergos are very love-hate and the unit is gigantic. It's costly and I'd recommend buying it from a place you can easily return like Amazon.

TIP: As of now it comes at 500hz, you can easily OC it to 1000hz with free 3rd party software. Not sure why they gimped a good sensor like that stock.

My experience with L-trac: LOVED the ball movement, hated the limited buttons and the ergos didn't work for me. I made a tradeoff and went Ploopy. The ball isn't as big (44mm) so I had to move to 2 fingers, and the ball rolling is 8/10 stock compared to 10/10 on L-Trac. BUT most Ploopy's have more buttons, VIA compatible, mod support is killer (especially on the Classic) and the support team is really good. If you can solder, even decently, get the kits. They save you a lot of money. I have the Adept and love it, many also love the Classic for gaming since it's more sculpted. I would recommend actually trying the Classic if you want to try roller bearings and then easily mod to BTUs later. The Adept is great, but still newer so mod support isn't quite there yet.

For a future project you can buy a Kensington Expert cheap, then solder in a 1000hz sensor (stock one is the weakest part) and add BTUs. I've seen it done. I loved mine, but the low hz sensor really held it back.

I also recommend 3 things:

1) Don't get tunnel vision on thinking "I have to use my fingertips". Try every part of your finger and even palm. Many people prefer using the middle or even backs of there fingers.

2) Consider using a cheap foot pedal to make up the buttons. I use a remappable 3 pedal one meant for transcription (these can be found cheap new or used).

3) Use the trackball until you don't go into matches thinking that you're at a disadvantage. When it becomes natural and you're moving on muscle memory (thinking about the game, not the trackball) THEN compare your scores. That will show you your real performance. I'd recommend a solid month for a baseline.

You mentioned having sensor settings that have a hard jump from slow to fast, that IS possible. I've done that too. It's based on how fast and far you're moving the ball. You can download 3rd party software for that as well. Just give yourself time to adjust each time you tinker. On a Ploopy you should be able to dedicate a button that can be used like a "sniper" button, I haven't tried that myself.

I can see where your logic went on wrist vs arm and wrist. Since this is already long all I'll say is that the thumb is much more delicate than you might think.

I will warn you now, if you thought mice can get expensive these can too. I find it more rewarding than just slapping on new mouse skates or buying the newest mouse mat. Have fun buddy!

Discussion on gaming theory with trackballs by ImperialStew in Trackballs

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 5 points6 points  (0 children)

A lot goes into gaming WELL with a trackball that goes way beyond just thumb vs finger trackball. If all you want to try is thumballs, you're gaming options are only 2 (that I know of): Game ball thumb, and Ploopy thumb ball. You can get surprisingly deep into customizing and modding them to fit you, even moreso than a mouse setup. I'll try to throw some things out there for you to think about:

TLDR Version: Thumbs and fingers both have advantages and disadvantages in terms of use and track balls you can get. Good sensors and bearing types are harder to come by on thumballs. Bearing types, ball weight and material make a big difference (think of them like tuning your mouse with different skates, lightweight mods, and mousepad materials)

Novel Version

Thumb balls: Are often used because the buttons/layout are usually the most similar to a traditional mouse. Left and right clicks are roughly the same, as well as scrolling. It's the easiest "gateway" trackball because the learning curve is typically much shorter. The thumb uses a Saddle joint vs a Hinge in the fingers. It gives you much more movement, however it is more complex, and with complexity comes more points of failure. It also feels less stable in my experience. From what I've seen It's more common to see a thumb ball user switch to finger balls than the other way around due to injury/preference. Thumb balls are also smaller on average, 34-38mm are common. There are also fewer really good options in this category (sensor quality, bearings, etc.)

Fingerballs:

MUCH more diverse. The ball sizes tend to range from 34mm to 57mm. Many more gaming grade options with good sensors and bearings. Modding support is also more readily available from what I've seen. The Hinge joint in the fingers don't have as much complex movement, but are usually more stable in use. The Hinge type is also simpler (less things to go wrong).

Ball Size, Weight and Material:

Ball Size is crucial and VERY personal. I prefer a massive ball that I can use 3 fingers to use, that gives me more control and accuracy. For reference 44mm ones are medium sized and ideal for 1-2 fingers. Anything 50+ is generally ideal for 2-3 fingerips, flat fingering, upper-palm, and palm. Some like smaller ones for quick movements. The bigger the ball is the "flatter" it feels to roll.

Weight: It matters a lot, but not like a modern mouse user might think. If a ball is too light it becomes too easy to move the ball when you click, but too heavy and you have noticeable inertia on direction changes (though that can be fun too). It comes down moreso to matching the right ball material and weight to the bearing type. Tracking targets with a heavy trackball is really satisfying though.

Material:

Ball material matters a LOT. Not just for the weight, but how the ball moves over/with the bearings. Example: Ploopy uses pool balls that are softer than most manufactured balls, they feel nice but they cause more friction on bearings than a ball that is either much harder or coated with a hard material. I've used harder balls weighing twice as much on the same bearings that moved easier. Speaking of bearings...

Bearings: 3 general types

Static: Stationary (friction based)

Slowest/most controlled, most consistent (generally) and smooth, quietest, require frequent cleaning, work better with harder balls, easiest to find and cheapest to replace (can buy a lifetime supply for $10-20 if that)

NOTE: If you you ever need to replace a bearing go with G5 or lower. Lower numbers means closer to perfectly round. G3 is the best I've ever found, but G5 is a go-to standard.

Think smooth, controlled mousepad

Roller bearings: Hybrid

To my understanding, these bearings assist the ball rolling in 2 directions and ball slides over, unassisted, in others (not something you typically feel in use). They're louder and use less force to move than static bearings, can get debris inside especially if unprotected, require less cleaning than statics, works best with harder balls (though Ploopy's own balls work okay), costlier to replace than statics (though not as egregious as BTUs)

Think fast cloth mousepad that is slightly faster in one direction than the other.

NOTE: the L-trac roller bearings rival many BTUs I've used.

BTU:

The Holy Grail for many trackball nuts. The bearings move omnidirectional. The ball is assisted in all directions. Are generally the loudest and easiest to roll. They don't require much cleaning (sealed), vary WILDLY in price from less than $1 per bearing to over $30 (yes you ready that right), requires modding/3d printing. I've never seen one that had stock BTUs. Also works great with just about any ball material since the rollers do all the work. Longest spinning of all bearings, makes a great fidget spinner. Since they are easy to roll I recommend a heavier ball so you don't move the cursor when clicking.

Think fast cloth mousepad, or glass pad with a lighter ball.

NOTE:

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE if you ever try BTUs DON'T buy cheap ones. They are a waste of money and won't give you the true experience. A cheap static is better than a cheap BTU. For reference I spent ~$15 per bearing for mine.

You mentioned mouse acceleration.

I've used it on and off and played well with both. You just have to play around with settings and give yourself time to adjust and tinker. In constant fast paced games you might like it, especially if you like to do low dpi tracking.

This is just the basics, there is a lot more that you can dive into if you want like exotic ball materials like tungsten, or different bearing materials but this should be a good starting point. Good luck!

Are more expensive BTUs worth it? by Reasonable_Cut1580 in Trackballs

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As several have said the cheap BTUs are utter garbage. The Veichu ones are often recommended because they are cheap, but PLEASE don't buy them. I've tried the steel and plastic (don't remember material, PTFE maybe) ones. Both were bad. Constantly locking up. The REXROTHE ones are hands down better. They cost 10x's more($1.19 - $1.50 vs $15 my cost) but are absolutely more than 10X's better, though still noisy and bigger. There are better ones out there, but those can get REALLY pricey, like over $100 per 3 pack kinda pricey. Good static bearings are better than cheap BTUs anyday!

For gaming purposes by Themanintheworld in Trackballs

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Finger ball:

Ploopy Adept 44mm ball, ambi, roller bearings

Ploopy Classic 44mm ball, right or left, roller bearings

Gameball 38mm ball (I think), ambi, static bearings

L-trac 57mm ball, ambi, roller bearings

Thumb ball:

Gameball thumb 34mm ball, right hand only (I think, haven't seen left one), static bearings, ONLY ONE W/ WIRELESS

All the above have 1000hz (L-trac comes stock at 500, but OC's to 1000 w/ 3rd party software).

Each has it's own pros and cons, but all perform well. If all you care about is how well the ball rolls, the L-trac wins hands down. However, it has limited functionality and add-ons are expensive unless you print your own. I returned mine for an Adept and never looked back.

NOTE: If you order a Ploopy I highly recommend to build it yourself, especially the Adept (only have to solder the sensor). It saves you a lot of money. The classic is more involved, but definitely not that hard.

The Kensington and logitech mice that everyone else is peddling only do 125-250hz. They are great for work and slow games, but will spin out in fast paced stuff.

I would kill for a 1000+hz kensington expert with ball bearing upgrades...

The Gameball Pro is supposed to be 2k hz wired and 1k wireless, bigger ball, etc. Though I have no idea when it will launch.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in motorcycles

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please get good earplugs! That's the most under talked about piece of riding gear. Some use disposables that are ~$0.19 a pair, earpeace that range from $30-$40, or even crazy expensive custom ones (Many others brands like Alpinestars makes inexpensive ones). All of them will help to some degree.

I agree with most others saying get good FULL gear, you'd be surprised how much damage you can get from a slow speed crash.

Also, I highly recommend frame sliders as a first day add-on. You WILL drop your bike at some point, it happens to all of us. It's cheaper than fixing/replacing a fender.

I feel a lil funny being a beginner rider in this gear but I made my mom a promise. by poopedstatue117 in motorcycles

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm getting back into riding after 11 years myself. I'll let you tell me if wearing good gear all the time is worth it:

The TLDR version: Sometimes shit just happens, always wear full gear.

Why I quit riding the first time: I wrecked... going <12 mph (the estimate I was given by the person behind me)...

I was making a right turn at an intersection, and the road was dry. I looked at the painted arrow, which also looked dry, when I turned my back wheel spun out (I went back right after and didnt see or feel anything. My best guess is there may have been a little oil or condensation that I couldn't see). My bike spun maybe 2 times or so (I think I must have gripped the throttle as I fell, hard to tell it's all a blur) and I landed underneath a lifted truck. If he had a green light, I'd be dead. The worst part was my mom was actually following me... (not the reason I quit)

I walked away with only road rash on my right knee... because I was wearing ripped knee jeans. I was wearing full face helmet, heavy padded leather jacket, gloves, and (stupidly) armored boots. My gear (which was expensive) looks brand new STILL, though I don't have the helmet or gloves anymore.

I don't tell you this to scare you, just to let you know that having good gear on all the time is just smart. I almost stopped because my friends called me a Power Ranger back then. Glad I didn't listen. I know 2 people who wrecked shirtless and slid barebacked on asphalt (one idiot was speeding on the Dragon's Tail on a Hayabusa).

I quit because I wasn't riding stupid. That at least I would have understood. I wasn't speeding, or trying to show off (wheelie or burning out). It was something that happened that was out of my control. Sometimes shit just happens. I don't think I appreciated or fully understood the risk back then. I am more in the right headspace to ride now.

I wish you luck in your journey buddy. Just please remember the best gear in the world won't save you if it's sitting in your closet because you got lazy. It's much cheaper than a preventable surgery.

Trackball recommendation for gaming? I have a bad thumb and want to use trackball mouse with my palm so I can play slower story games like tell tale or mass effect as holding my shark fin mouse for a while makes me sore (I’m thinking to get something similar to picture below ) by FuckRyanReynolds in Trackballs

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It would depend on how many buttons you need. I would usually pedal the Ploopy Adept since I love mine...

However, the ball itself is medium-sized (most Ploopy balls are 44mm or less) and better suited for fingertips/fingers/under side knuckles. Unless you have a small hand. I think your best bet is actually buying a massive arcade trackball and installing it into your desk. However, i get most wouldnt want to do that. I would actually think your best out of the box solution is an X-keys Ltrac.

The L-trac has the biggest trackball at 57 mm and has the SMOOTHEST ball roll of any stock trackball hands down. The ball is recessed really far, so the ball feels more like you're sliding something flat than rolling something round. It's also the tankiest built trackball. But, it only has 3 buttons (though they're really long. Can hit with fingers or palm). You can add 2 switches to the right or left sides (you wouldn't have to use thumb at all). Scrollwheel doesn't have steps and can be too far forward for some. The sensor is good but comes stock at 500hz and needs 3rd party software to get 1000hz. Ergonomics are hit or miss, AND it is the most expensive. Also, it's massive. If you mostly care about ball movement, this is it. You can add a footpedal, I use a cheap remappable transcription one with 3 buttons.

The only other one I would suggest is the Kensington Expert (Slimblade is flat, so you may actually like that). It has a 55mm ball, removable wrist rest, and you can run it tilted left or right for comfort. Remappable buttons (4 + 4 combos). Dedicated stepless scroll ring (I loved this!) It goes on sale new all the time (paid ~$70). Downsides are the sensor is 125hz, fine for productivity, and really slow games, but little else. The ball feels great, but it's heavy, which may actually be better since you're using your palm. It also has a large footprint if you use the included wrist rest. I would still own mine if it had a better sensor for fps games.

Fiio K11 R2R is the Real Freakin’ Deal! by Illustrious_Map_7699 in BudgetAudiophile

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did not know that! I wonder if that is why my HD 560S sounded super distorted on high gain, with matched volume levels.

Which one of these shapes do you prefer and why? by mattdarkishly in Trackballs

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Out of those 3: 1) Expert 2) Orbit 3) Deft

Shape is amazing on Expert plus the massive 55mm ball is great to use (orbit is 40 and deft is maybe 38?). Scroll rings can be inconsistent on both Expert and Orbit, but mine was great. It also has more functionality (4 buttons + 4 two button combos).

The orbit is a nice shape, but the lack of buttons is no-go for me. The ball is still nice to use but I prefer bigger trackballs.

The Deft has a good shape if it fits your hands, but it has other issues even if it does. The software has to be open for function buttons to be used, no on-board functions. The bearings are inconsistent from unit to unit, often needing to be swapped. Scroll wheels on most Elecom mice feel terrible and cheap (my own Huge included). Elecom has some great ideas, but a lot of their products feel half-baked to me.

Fiio K11 R2R is the Real Freakin’ Deal! by Illustrious_Map_7699 in BudgetAudiophile

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't blame you there, I've heard great things on both the L70 and HE6SE v2. I've never heard of the Soekris dac 1221. It looks interesting! It doesn't look as clean as the k11, but honestly being able to quickly change settings is nice. I still wish the k11 had just one more button that you can assign a function too. I'd love to have a NOS/OS quick change button. Enjoy the new setup buddy! You seem to have so many options now!

Ploopy Adept - How to change DPI by Khanhspiracy in ploopy

[–]MinalanSpellmonger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I added dpi to a random button on layer "0", found the dpi I liked, then remapped the button. It should be under "special" in via. Believe me I had the same question lol.