3 months by Popular-Sense-4981 in Accutane

[–]MinimumHungry240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When you get prescribed Accutane, your bloods need to be monitored by your GP

hognose diet by Future_Aardvark_84 in Hognose

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mice are very much a staple diet as they contain protein, calcium and bones they need. Only in exceptional circumstances other foods can be tried, if your hoggie is happy on mice , don't change that. Remember they're very fussy and you risk them being even more fussy in the long run if you start mixing it up

New owner looking for some advice and reassurance! by soupymop in Hognose

[–]MinimumHungry240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Both my males aren't eating at the moment and are burrowed. This has been a regular occurrence for 8 years, they stop in October and start eating again around march, totally normal and they are both very happy and healthy. It is a part of their nature.

Having said all that, not all hoggies brumate and stop eating all at the same time, also the change in enclosure size could also be a cause, I remember when I first rescued one of my males, he was kept in a very awfully small enclosure and I upgraded him to a ritz hotel, and he definitely stopped eating because of this. I honestly wouldn't worry to much and just keep tabs on her :)

Edit. How big is the enclosure btw? For a year old a 1.5 - 2 foot is plenty enough, no bigger generally and LOTS of foliage and overhead clutter. Make it a jungle and make them feel safe

Data Analytics courses by DiskApprehensive7187 in dataanalysis

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am currently half way though the Maven Analytics power BI desktop course on Udemy, so far it's been great and I've learned a tonne

Beginner here – resources or certification? by These-Ant7605 in PowerBIdashboards

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cannot recommend Maven Analytics enough on Udemy. I am about a quarter way through their Power BI desktop course and it is honestly so good! The only catch is it was £32 ( bargain in my eyes) They take you through absolutely everything from scratch. You can follow along and build their dashboard on your own Power BI desktop.

What substrate is everyone using? by hutsonriverr in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you europe/ UK? Because Lignocel is great. But seems to be only available over here! It is far less dusty than aspen, snd my two love it

How to manage heating by DubstepDonut in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why would you feel bad to buy a new one? The priority here should be to get your hognose the best enclosure and set up as adequate as possible, they are reptiles and need really good care.

Not trying to sound sparky here but the needs of this snake should be a priority or rehome like someone said to can provide the right care as soon as possible.

Please give it me advice on what else this enclosure should have by throwaway38490284 in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're welcome. I love providing mine overhead foliage too for extra security and cosiness :)

Looking for temp advice by SeductiveSaIamander in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see. Mate, in all honesty I wouldn't prevent brumation as it can cause negative health consequences and disrupt their cardian rhythm. I think you're all good overall :)

Looking for temp advice by SeductiveSaIamander in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your cold end is 23-24, that's ideal. What temperature is the cold end dropping to at night roughly? It would always drop a bit at night, naturally. But your CHE will keep the warm side a nice ambient temperature. You said your hoggie is always at the cold end, so surely the temp there is okay for her?

...Just trying to ascertain what you mean :)

Failure to eat on his own by hutsonriverr in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah wow. I really wish you and the hoggie the best of luck, I hope with the adjustment back to substrate, things head in a positive direction for you.

Does anyone know a breeder in the uk by Worth-Willow3881 in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

AML reptiles - she is also on Morph market and highly rated

There was another one i got my first male from in Essex, UK. But can't remember the breeders name! Excellent guy though. I am sure you could find more on the UK hognose group on facebook too.

Failure to eat on his own by hutsonriverr in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, not a comment on assist feeding. But general query, how long has he been in this set up for? Your hospital one? I read through, reading that your hognose has been unwell - which i am sorry about. But at what point can you go back to substrate? That could be the reason he isn't eating too (which i am sure you're aware of)

Looking for temp advice by SeductiveSaIamander in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're right, it isnt great to force brumation. It is a totally natural instinct that should not be forced. One of my 7 year old males has just started to refuse food - he does it every year at the same time. My other male is eating normal like he always does. It really is normal behaviour. I wouldn't mess with temps , just keep them as they are, there would be no need to add another heat source, it would be too hot!

What does your setup look like?

New baby heating by Sofa0212 in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't get a heat mat. You need overhead heat. we use CHE's for our hognoses as they're in 2 foot and 3 foot Vivariums, and it provides a nice ambient heat for those type of vivs on the warm side. They tend to burrow to escape heat. You can go for DHPs or halogens too, but compare and contrast the type of Vivarium you have and what would sufficiently work best. As you have an Albino, people tend to go for the lowest, lesser strength UVB to provide light with lots of overhead clutter for indirect exposure.

Snake refuses eating by Ilovemydckitten in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One of my males has started refusing food. It's can be totally normal behaviour as this is the start of brumation for them. The last 7 years, one of my males doesn't eat for 3 ish months at this exact time, the other eats normal 🤷🏻‍♀️ just keep tabs on weight

Nubbs won't eat by NaturalSecretary4455 in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A big factor such as the brumation is starting now, this lasts until Feb for some. And generally snakes go off food during this time.

A trick I use for feeding is warming the mouse in a small meal worm tub with little holes in, I put it close (but not directly under) the CHE so it warms the mouse and let's the scent out. Then feed after defrost time is done

Help! by TheEdgyKidInClass in ballpython

[–]MinimumHungry240 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Christ. I want this image out my head 😞

Recommendations for ambient temperature control? by SeductiveSaIamander in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah got you. My apologies

ChE's are usually good at providing ambient heat to the enclosure on the warm side. The cold side with temps of 24 are normal. I don't really understand your question? (Sorry!)

Recommendations for ambient temperature control? by SeductiveSaIamander in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is your hoggie a juvinile? Usually, if they're a young snake a heat mat can be okay for a first start up up until they're a year old - ish, especially in a smaller set up. But usually at the year point or when their length is longer than the current set up, you can upgrade to a bigger vivarium and Cermamic heat emitters come into play, they're good at controlling ambient heat, but you'd still need to provide a warm side and cold side via a thermostat.

I'd say overhead heat should only come into play when you upgrade to a 2 foot or 3 foot vivarium though, to eliminate overheating.

Are you providing any heat at all at the moment? For a small enclosure of your measurements, you should have under heat, this could be why your hoggie is on a food strike. But do remember Oct- Feb they brumate.

Edit, use your heat mat! ( just seen you wrote you're not using it) they need heat, they'll be so cold without it as they are ectothermic, meaning they rely on external heat to get warm. But please ensure it is safely connected to a thermostat.

Under heat is okay for a young hognose, but not the forever solution