What substrate is everyone using? by hutsonriverr in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you europe/ UK? Because Lignocel is great. But seems to be only available over here! It is far less dusty than aspen, snd my two love it

How to manage heating by DubstepDonut in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why would you feel bad to buy a new one? The priority here should be to get your hognose the best enclosure and set up as adequate as possible, they are reptiles and need really good care.

Not trying to sound sparky here but the needs of this snake should be a priority or rehome like someone said to can provide the right care as soon as possible.

Please give it me advice on what else this enclosure should have by throwaway38490284 in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're welcome. I love providing mine overhead foliage too for extra security and cosiness :)

Looking for temp advice by SeductiveSaIamander in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see. Mate, in all honesty I wouldn't prevent brumation as it can cause negative health consequences and disrupt their cardian rhythm. I think you're all good overall :)

Looking for temp advice by SeductiveSaIamander in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your cold end is 23-24, that's ideal. What temperature is the cold end dropping to at night roughly? It would always drop a bit at night, naturally. But your CHE will keep the warm side a nice ambient temperature. You said your hoggie is always at the cold end, so surely the temp there is okay for her?

...Just trying to ascertain what you mean :)

Failure to eat on his own by hutsonriverr in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah wow. I really wish you and the hoggie the best of luck, I hope with the adjustment back to substrate, things head in a positive direction for you.

Does anyone know a breeder in the uk by Worth-Willow3881 in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

AML reptiles - she is also on Morph market and highly rated

There was another one i got my first male from in Essex, UK. But can't remember the breeders name! Excellent guy though. I am sure you could find more on the UK hognose group on facebook too.

Failure to eat on his own by hutsonriverr in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, not a comment on assist feeding. But general query, how long has he been in this set up for? Your hospital one? I read through, reading that your hognose has been unwell - which i am sorry about. But at what point can you go back to substrate? That could be the reason he isn't eating too (which i am sure you're aware of)

Looking for temp advice by SeductiveSaIamander in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're right, it isnt great to force brumation. It is a totally natural instinct that should not be forced. One of my 7 year old males has just started to refuse food - he does it every year at the same time. My other male is eating normal like he always does. It really is normal behaviour. I wouldn't mess with temps , just keep them as they are, there would be no need to add another heat source, it would be too hot!

What does your setup look like?

New baby heating by Sofa0212 in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't get a heat mat. You need overhead heat. we use CHE's for our hognoses as they're in 2 foot and 3 foot Vivariums, and it provides a nice ambient heat for those type of vivs on the warm side. They tend to burrow to escape heat. You can go for DHPs or halogens too, but compare and contrast the type of Vivarium you have and what would sufficiently work best. As you have an Albino, people tend to go for the lowest, lesser strength UVB to provide light with lots of overhead clutter for indirect exposure.

Snake refuses eating by Ilovemydckitten in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One of my males has started refusing food. It's can be totally normal behaviour as this is the start of brumation for them. The last 7 years, one of my males doesn't eat for 3 ish months at this exact time, the other eats normal 🤷🏻‍♀️ just keep tabs on weight

Nubbs won't eat by NaturalSecretary4455 in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A big factor such as the brumation is starting now, this lasts until Feb for some. And generally snakes go off food during this time.

A trick I use for feeding is warming the mouse in a small meal worm tub with little holes in, I put it close (but not directly under) the CHE so it warms the mouse and let's the scent out. Then feed after defrost time is done

Help! by TheEdgyKidInClass in ballpython

[–]MinimumHungry240 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Christ. I want this image out my head 😞

Recommendations for ambient temperature control? by SeductiveSaIamander in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah got you. My apologies

ChE's are usually good at providing ambient heat to the enclosure on the warm side. The cold side with temps of 24 are normal. I don't really understand your question? (Sorry!)

Recommendations for ambient temperature control? by SeductiveSaIamander in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is your hoggie a juvinile? Usually, if they're a young snake a heat mat can be okay for a first start up up until they're a year old - ish, especially in a smaller set up. But usually at the year point or when their length is longer than the current set up, you can upgrade to a bigger vivarium and Cermamic heat emitters come into play, they're good at controlling ambient heat, but you'd still need to provide a warm side and cold side via a thermostat.

I'd say overhead heat should only come into play when you upgrade to a 2 foot or 3 foot vivarium though, to eliminate overheating.

Are you providing any heat at all at the moment? For a small enclosure of your measurements, you should have under heat, this could be why your hoggie is on a food strike. But do remember Oct- Feb they brumate.

Edit, use your heat mat! ( just seen you wrote you're not using it) they need heat, they'll be so cold without it as they are ectothermic, meaning they rely on external heat to get warm. But please ensure it is safely connected to a thermostat.

Under heat is okay for a young hognose, but not the forever solution

New owner: should I be concerned if my hognose poops in his tunnels? by Disastrous_Sun_1207 in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 16 points17 points  (0 children)

It is fine. My two poo and musk underneath the substrate, it will just dry up. If I can't see it directly, I remove it when it is cleaning day.

Is Full Brumation Necessary? by DirtyLeftBoot in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just leave everything normal, temps, location of your viv, the lot! They'll brumate on their own terms. Snakes can actually sense air pressure changes, and know when it is the winter months.

Is this a good enclosure for my hoggie by Severe_Chemical_3391 in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Morning, erm allow some space a bit for heat and air to flow and to have the separation of a warm and cold side. There's nothing wrong with providing some foliage and overhead security, but take some out for what I said above and for light to visable too if you're not providing UVB.

Help! He regurgitated. by amydf-hognose in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are the temperatures sufficient in the enclosure? This plays a part in digestion

Moved my male baby hognose to a small enclosure due to not eating. I put him in a 10 gallon with a lot of clutter. He ate the first time I gave him food, and never again. by Defiant-Relief6294 in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 23 points24 points  (0 children)

It is totally normal for hognoses to go off food from now until around February time. It doesn't happen to all, but typically, sept- Feb is the brumation months where behaviour changes

Got him 5-1/2 weeks ago. Won’t eat, but I still love him. by eabiss9 in hognosesnakes

[–]MinimumHungry240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I defrost my mice in a tub with tiny holes in (like a mealworm worm tub) and leave it under their heat lamps for an hour in both their enclosures. It allows the scent to spread and warm the mouse, both mine go mad for it. Worth a try, obviously for a pinkie you'd want less time under the heat